snufkin - thanks for the info - I'll get more time next week hopefully to do more checking. After finding a couple of them with all 3 to GND I agree that powering it up may not be the best idea at this point. On the list above, if I noted it as Center +5 then the outers went to GND, and if Center to …

Well, I've checked them to the power pins on the planar, and it's still soup as far as I can tell.. Here are the results using my trusty Fluke 77 multimeter's continuity test: C84 - Center +5 C93 - none shorted to any pin on the power connector C94 - Center +5 C99 - Center +5 C100 - all to GND C101 …

Deunan - correct! I did get all of that - at first I was only going to pull the blown cap and power up the board from there, but I just decided to pull all of them while I was at it. I marked every cap with the board # and took pix of each one so I would know the orientation as well. Hopefully …

snufkin - that's probably a good way to do it! I wasn't thinking that, but that's what I'll do! It may be a few days before I get it done, but I will make it a point to get it done this week! Thanks for the tip!

BitWrangler - that's my big problem! I've checked out the traces from top to bottom, and if you assume one is the ground and it connects to the two outside pins, but on the one next to it, that 'ground' now connects to the center pin! I don't wanna smell any exploded tantalums! 😉

I'm going to check out the Sams photofacts and see if they don't have what I'm looking for - the more I look at this the more it looks like 2 different polarities on these. I really don't want to explode any tantalums in the house! I have a message out to them and will update when I get more info. …

whaka - So I see the one on that data sheet is positive center, but do they make them with the negative in the center as well? I've got them all out now - so does anyone think it will cause any major problems to power up the planar with all of them out so I can see which ones are getting voltage, …

Well - this is interesting - here are my test results: C 111 - center negative (22-25) C 113 - center positive (22-25) C 114 - center negative (22-25) C 99 - center positive (10-16) C 100 - center negative (10-16) C 101 - blown (center pos?) (10-16) C 93 - none test negative (10-16) C? - by the …

Thanks for all the information everyone! I'm planning on replacing them with 3 leg Kemet or Sprague (which I think these are). I'll test all of them (since there's only 10) and report back if they're center negative or positive.

Snufkin - right - I read that page as well, which then got me to this point. Schematic anyone?!? Deunan - oof! I'll have to get a better look at that as well! Was too busy focusing on the cap markings.

I thought middle ground as well - but I'm going to probably do some testing as well. I figured someone would have a schematic, but I haven't run across one yet, so maybe not! Thanks!

Hi, I just got a new to me IBM Model 25, and it shows nothing at boot, no beeps, nothing. Power supply is outputting the correct voltage. I pulled it completely apart today and found one of the 10uf 16v tantalums with no top. There are 7 total of these, and three 22uf 25v ones. They all have 3 legs. …

Thanks! I downloaded the stuff from the link, and I'll try it out as soon as I can and let you know how it worked! I kept looking for what version of OS X was supported, but I couldn't find that info. 😎

Hi, I was given an old Apple iBook clamshell, and I've been playing some old games on it in OS 9.2.2. (Diablo, Shadow Warrior, etc.) I have OS X installed as well, and when I saw DOSbox, I downloaded it and followed the directions. Problem is, it doesn't do anything when I double click the DOSbox …