Eivind wrote on 2024-05-13, 13:14:

That's great to hear! 🎉 […]
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snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-13, 12:19:

Quick update on the other minor issue with the static, yeah I'm a dummy sometimes, I put to caps on 90 degrees from where they should be and rotating them back to where they're supposed to be fixed that issue.

That's great to hear! 🎉

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-13, 12:19:

I flashed it the way you mentioned above a few days ago and it seems to have flashed correctly but when I connect a USB mouse to the port it doesn't do anything in windows.

I'd start by connecting only a single USB keyboard to one of the HID ports and take it from there. Mice (and hubs) are generally trickier and there _can_ be incompatibilities.
If you want to try to debug the rp2040, there's the TTL serial (115200 bps, 8N1) J46 connector you can hook up to look at output from the firmware. You'd have to enable debug output in code and recompile another firmware first though.

ah...yeah I don't really know how to do that. I'm leaning toward, I probably messed up something when I compiled. I don't suppose you could send me a compiled UF2 file that is known working could ya?

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-14, 01:18:

I don't suppose you could send me a compiled UF2 file that is known working could ya?

Try this one!

Eivind wrote on 2024-05-14, 05:24:

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-14, 01:18:

I don't suppose you could send me a compiled UF2 file that is known working could ya?

Try this one!

interesting. I haven't flashed it yet but just comparing the 2, yours is about 9kb larger than the one I compiled so that alone tells me I did something wrong. I had a bunch of trouble getting tinyUSB to initialize for the compile but thought I worked it out.
I will let you know later when I have a chance to test but I'm feeling hopeful!

Eivind wrote on 2024-05-14, 05:24:

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-14, 01:18:

I don't suppose you could send me a compiled UF2 file that is known working could ya?

Try this one!

you are my hero sir! works like a charm. Now I can finally say the ITX llama board is complete. Thank you so much for all your help!

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-15, 00:05:

you are my hero sir! works like a charm. Now I can finally say the ITX llama board is complete. Thank you so much for all your help!

Fantastic! Again, congrats on a very impressive manual build! 💪

Eivind wrote on 2024-05-15, 05:03:

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-15, 00:05:

you are my hero sir! works like a charm. Now I can finally say the ITX llama board is complete. Thank you so much for all your help!

Fantastic! Again, congrats on a very impressive manual build! 💪

I appreciate the compliment. I figured i'd upload some pictures. will have to do more once I get the 3d printed fan bracket in from PCBway as well as the OPL3 modules but here's what it looks like as of now.
Super fun and can't wait for the next project!

Very cool!! 😎

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjoyed building Eivind's art work piece by piece, manually.
One more thing, I routed the ESP8266 to the outside of the case and I was facing problems when I was trying to program it. Of course, in order to program the ESP8266 you have to take the jumper out so your USB connection will not try to power the rest of the system. That is when I thought, well, let's a Schottky diode. I added in to a 2-pin header and put it instead of the jumper and it works.
So, now I am thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to have the Diode built into the board instead or in parallel with the jumper.
I cannot wait for the TinyLlama 3 Eivind and thank you so much for all these awesome projects (The TinyLlama Sequel).

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:54:

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjo […]
Show full quote

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjoyed building Eivind's art work piece by piece, manually.
One more thing, I routed the ESP8266 to the outside of the case and I was facing problems when I was trying to program it. Of course, in order to program the ESP8266 you have to take the jumper out so your USB connection will not try to power the rest of the system. That is when I thought, well, let's a Schottky diode. I added in to a 2-pin header and put it instead of the jumper and it works.
So, now I am thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to have the Diode built into the board instead or in parallel with the jumper.
I cannot wait for the TinyLlama 3 Eivind and thank you so much for all these awesome projects (The TinyLlama Sequel).

Dude the white PCB looks sick!
Diode is not a bad idea. it would make it easier to program that and the RP2040 without having to open the case.
What case are you using out of curiosity? That's my next step for this project.

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:54:

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjoyed building Eivind's art work piece by piece, manually.

I'm impressed you guys have the skill and patience to hand-solder 0402 components meant for automated assembly (ie., no enlarged "hand solder" pads)!

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:54:

One more thing, I routed the ESP8266 to the outside of the case and I was facing problems when I was trying to program it. Of course, in order to program the ESP8266 you have to take the jumper out so your USB connection will not try to power the rest of the system. That is when I thought, well, let's a Schottky diode. I added in to a 2-pin header and put it instead of the jumper and it works.
So, now I am thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to have the Diode built into the board instead or in parallel with the jumper.
I cannot wait for the TinyLlama 3 Eivind and thank you so much for all these awesome projects (The TinyLlama Sequel).

In general, I'm a bit hesitant to use diodes (even Schottky ones) to stop back feeding when sending 5V into something that's spec'ed for 5V, because of the voltage drop. But in this case, I'm assuming the 5 volts just go into a 3.3V LDO on the D1, so the lowered voltage shouldn't matter. Good idea!

EDIT: oh, and very nice with the white PCB! Looks slick as hell!

Eivind wrote on 2024-05-16, 18:11:

I'm impressed you guys have the skill and patience to hand-solder 0402 components meant for automated assembly (ie., no enlarged "hand solder" pads)!

I can only speak for myself but a microscope, good flux and A LOT of patience. this was only the 3rd SMD board I've ever built so I was trying to push myself.

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-16, 18:16:

Eivind wrote on 2024-05-16, 18:11:

I'm impressed you guys have the skill and patience to hand-solder 0402 components meant for automated assembly (ie., no enlarged "hand solder" pads)!

I can only speak for myself but a microscope, good flux and A LOT of patience. this was only the 3rd SMD board I've ever built so I was trying to push myself.

That is indeed a very impressive 3rd SMD build, kudos! 😁

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:57:

Dude the white PCB looks sick! Diode is not a bad idea. it would make it easier to program that and the RP2040 without having t […]
Show full quote

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:54:

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjo […]
Show full quote

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjoyed building Eivind's art work piece by piece, manually.
One more thing, I routed the ESP8266 to the outside of the case and I was facing problems when I was trying to program it. Of course, in order to program the ESP8266 you have to take the jumper out so your USB connection will not try to power the rest of the system. That is when I thought, well, let's a Schottky diode. I added in to a 2-pin header and put it instead of the jumper and it works.
So, now I am thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to have the Diode built into the board instead or in parallel with the jumper.
I cannot wait for the TinyLlama 3 Eivind and thank you so much for all these awesome projects (The TinyLlama Sequel).

Dude the white PCB looks sick!
Diode is not a bad idea. it would make it easier to program that and the RP2040 without having to open the case.
What case are you using out of curiosity? That's my next step for this project.

Go to Page 22 and see the case that I have been using. I got it off ebay.

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 18:36:

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:57:

Dude the white PCB looks sick! Diode is not a bad idea. it would make it easier to program that and the RP2040 without having t […]
Show full quote

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-16, 17:54:

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjo […]
Show full quote

Even though I had a functional ITX board, I decided to make one from scratch and solder the components one by one. I always enjoyed building Eivind's art work piece by piece, manually.
One more thing, I routed the ESP8266 to the outside of the case and I was facing problems when I was trying to program it. Of course, in order to program the ESP8266 you have to take the jumper out so your USB connection will not try to power the rest of the system. That is when I thought, well, let's a Schottky diode. I added in to a 2-pin header and put it instead of the jumper and it works.
So, now I am thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to have the Diode built into the board instead or in parallel with the jumper.
I cannot wait for the TinyLlama 3 Eivind and thank you so much for all these awesome projects (The TinyLlama Sequel).

Dude the white PCB looks sick!
Diode is not a bad idea. it would make it easier to program that and the RP2040 without having to open the case.
What case are you using out of curiosity? That's my next step for this project.

Go to Page 22 and see the case that I have been using. I got it off ebay.

oh no way, that's yours? I was looking at that one and thinking it would be perfect for what I want.

Highly impressive guys! Just when I thought this thread had run its course you guys pull out 2 amazing handmade builds. Can't wait to see what you guys build with these, keep us posted.

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-08, 12:23:

That's my thought as well! My gut was telling me that I needed to flash something on it but I'm a noob at this stuff still, so I […]
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tabm0de wrote on 2024-05-08, 07:49:

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-08, 02:50:

Hey guys I need your help. I built my ITX llama and everything seems to be working except anything connected to the ATTINY. I checked all my solder connections and everything seems to be fine. the LED is soldered in correctly and I can trigger it with my meter when I'm testing voltage on the pins. pins 1-7 on the ATTINY have 3.3v but on the other side only pin 9 has voltage. I already flashed the BIOS on the SOM so the system works in that sense. I checked the i2c lines but they have continuity and it even is able to read the fan controller so I know that works. In my frustration I pulled the ATTINY and replaced it with another one but have the same problem. I pulled the chip and read it in my EEPROM programmer and it's showing as blank. I don't know if it should have data on it or not but clearly I'm missing something.

ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED! 😀

I think firmware for sound and usb to ps2 are not apart of the github, i might be that Eivind missed to add them.

That's my thought as well! My gut was telling me that I needed to flash something on it but I'm a noob at this stuff still, so I thought there was a chance I missed something and maybe the BIOS flash also covered the ATTINY.

I found a firmware he posted for someone to test a while back for the ATTINY but when I tried it the only thing that happened was now the red LED is blinking non-stop. still can't enable the LED or clicker in the BIOS.

Eivind: if you read this, could you PLEASE post the firmware for the ATTINY and the RP2040 somewhere? I really appreciate what you do!

On a side note:
I've built 2 tinyLlamas so far and am hoping to have similar success with this project as well!

Any chance you can provide more info to how you got the lower and higher fuse value set.
If you can add your hex file that would be fantastic. I am getting the rapid fast red blink on mine based on compiling the main.c file and with the platformio.ini.

Thank you

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-05-18, 02:01:

Any chance you can provide more info to how you got the lower and higher fuse value set. If you can add your hex file that woul […]
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snipe3687 wrote on 2024-05-08, 12:23:

That's my thought as well! My gut was telling me that I needed to flash something on it but I'm a noob at this stuff still, so I […]
Show full quote

tabm0de wrote on 2024-05-08, 07:49:

I think firmware for sound and usb to ps2 are not apart of the github, i might be that Eivind missed to add them.

That's my thought as well! My gut was telling me that I needed to flash something on it but I'm a noob at this stuff still, so I thought there was a chance I missed something and maybe the BIOS flash also covered the ATTINY.

I found a firmware he posted for someone to test a while back for the ATTINY but when I tried it the only thing that happened was now the red LED is blinking non-stop. still can't enable the LED or clicker in the BIOS.

Eivind: if you read this, could you PLEASE post the firmware for the ATTINY and the RP2040 somewhere? I really appreciate what you do!

On a side note:
I've built 2 tinyLlamas so far and am hoping to have similar success with this project as well!

Any chance you can provide more info to how you got the lower and higher fuse value set.
If you can add your hex file that would be fantastic. I am getting the rapid fast red blink on mine based on compiling the main.c file and with the platformio.ini.

Thank you

Absolutely!

I'm going to assume you have a TL866II programmer since that's what I have but after you select your attiny84a chip go to the config tab and remove the check from CKDIV8=0 and add a check to RSTDISBL=0. you will see in the lower right hand that the values for fuse high and fuse low change to the appropriate values. I'm also attaching the hex file I used but it sounds like you got the same thing I did without setting the high and low fuse values so it's likely you did it right aside from that.
Let me know if that works!

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 21:33:

Thank you for your words. Of course I will share the case. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/355147325878 and here is wh […]
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Dothan Burger wrote on 2024-03-27, 18:00:

I love this setup. You truly have created something special here my guy. It fits with what I feel the whole principle of this […]
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ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 06:00:

Alright, so I was able to pack everything (ITX llama, Voodoo 3000 and a SATA) in the mini ITX case (bought off ebay and attached the picture).
To do that, I had to use an AGP riser from MODDIY. But man, that was then the nightmare began. With the riser I was unable to get the card working. Then I looked into the signal condition that was causing the issue. So, I shortened the cable to the size that I wanted and soldered all the wires back. That did not help of course and I still did not have the card working. Then I cleaned the cable to have the solder residue removed. That made the card work but it was not stable. Then I wrapped the cable with copper tape (also between the the ribbon cables) and finished it off with Kapton tape. That did the magic and everything is working very well. I had build a custom IO shield and have everything nicely put together. I have two Noctua fans ready to be placed to make the entire thing look amazing. Here is a sneak peek.

I love this setup. You truly have created something special here my guy. It fits with what I feel the whole principle of this build should be.

Would you mind sharing the name of the case you used? If not that's cool

Do you think the AGP riser would work without shortening it? I just don't have the skill to do all that soldering without spazzing out and ripping something.

Thank you for your words. Of course I will share the case. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/355147325878
and here is where I got the riser: https://www.moddiy.com/products/AGP-16X-8X-Ex … Riser-15cm.html

I think you probably need to go the copper shielding to get it work. I believe, you should give it a try. Worst case I will try my best to help you.

And here is a picture of the IO panel.

I just ordered the same case, how did you cut out the I/O shield? I want to give it a try but don’t want to have to redo it a bunch of times either!

Someone posted a 3D printed one as well. I had to nudge the keyboard/mouse ports a little, but it is otherwise perfect. If you don't have a 3D printer, check local libraries. Sometimes they have 3D printers.

fluxrez wrote on 2024-05-18, 16:15:

Someone posted a 3D printer one as well. I had to nudge the keyboard/mouse ports a little, but it is otherwise perfect. If you don't have a 3D printer, check local libraries. Sometimes they have 3D printers.

I have a 3d printer but I suck at using it. My stuff always comes out looking bad so I’ll have to order it from PCBway or something.

Thanks for the tip!