I guess if you're planning to play games that will make use of that sound hardware and you have the money to spend on it and the time to track it down, then you might as well. But I can't really see getting much use out of it.

Hi,

I already have every single piece of hardware.

My doubt is whether to use the TB Tropez alongside the AWE64G or directly the CT2760.

M.

What is the doubt? Consider the games you want to play and whether they can make use of the hardware. Then decide accordingly.

If you're not going to be playing anything, and these boxes are just going to go collect dust in a corner somewhere, then there is no doubt.

Well,

You are not completely wrong.
With this machine, the target is late DOS early Windows 3D era, but I wish to put together a 'do-it-for-all' config.
I already have two builds for earlier games, namely a low end 386DX and a fast DX4 machine.
A CT2760 (which is inside the DX4 pc) will provide OPL3 and AWE synthesis in one card, so I planned to use the TB with OPL3 and the AWE64G as a viable alternative.

M.

Any reason you ruled out the 233 MMX? It has many advantages , lower voltage/heat, easily underclocked, supports TR12 options in SETMUL for smooth slowdown. Re sound card options I have an AWE 64 gold in my Pentium build which I'have been very happy with apart from FM, So I have changed the FM io address on the AWE so it doesn't play and I've added a Sound blaster pro 2 connected to the AWE's line in to replace the FM. The combo works great,I just point games to the AWEs address/ IRQ.

lvader wrote:

Any reason you ruled out the 233 MMX? It has many advantages , lower voltage/heat, easily underclocked, supports TR12 options in SETMUL for smooth slowdown. Re sound card options I have an AWE 64 gold in my Pentium build which I'have been very happy with apart from FM, So I have changed the FM io address on the AWE so it doesn't play and I've added a Sound blaster pro 2 connected to the AWE's line in to replace the FM. The combo works great,I just point games to the AWEs address/ IRQ.

Hi,

That's exactly what I want to do with the dual sound card solution, FM synth through the OPL3 equipped Turtle Beach and E-MU8000 synthesis via the AWE64G.

Initially I ruled out the P233MMX beacause of known speed related issues but, actually, I didn't know that Setmul supports this CPU.

M.

You've been given some good feedback already on the sound card front. I'd add on the video card front that the ARK2000PV is both extremely rare and the fastest period-correct DOS chipset ever made. I would pair that with the Canopus, and definitely pick the 233MMX to maximize the Voodoo performance. As lvader alluded, setmul can get that CPU down to fast 386 speeds, so you'd have almost the perfect time machine that will cover games from around 1990 to 1997. He (lvader) just posted some benchmark results of his 233MMX with setmul in the cache disabled thread in my signature.

RAID0 might be risky and overkill, but as long as you have good backups, it'd be too tempting not to try. 😉

If you have a case with a turbo switch, you can wire it up for two different multipliers and change with a reboot.

Switching between 1-2 and 2-3 on J10C1-D would provide a slow and fast multiplier mode (1.5x is 3.5x on a PMMX).

Hi,

Unfortunately I'm using a cabinet without turbo button, it doesn't even come with a reset button..
Setmul in combination with different FSB/multiplier settings will do the trick.
@clueless1
I'm surely going to use the Ark based Diamond Stealth64 in this machine. I never used such a graphic card but benchmark results are pretty self explanatory.
For the RAID, actually I'm not very sure that Windows 98 SE has support built-in for the DPT SCSI controller and I think a single Cheetah is just enough 😀

M.

M.

hiroshima wrote:

Hi,

Unfortunately I'm using a cabinet without turbo button, it doesn't even come with a reset button..
Setmul in combination with different FSB/multiplier settings will do the trick.

Unfortunate about the turbo button, but you're going to need some method of changing multiplier or FSB should you choose to have that feature. You can always add the required switch to a drive bay blanking plate.

A bit of work but I mounted a couple of toggle switches to one of the rear slot brackets, one switches the multiplier from 2x to 3.5x , the other switches between 50 and 66fsb

Hi Ivader,

I already seen that interesting solution in one of Philscomputerlab YT vid.

Anyway, I am a bit curious about your build.
I can see 4 audio card, a vga and a CF adapter, isn't it?

M.

The CF is my 2nd HD, I alao have a 64gb disk on module installed. The sounds cards are Roland LAPCI, Roland RAP-10, AWE 64 Gold and Sound blaster pro 2 😀

Absolutely amazing build.

What are the remaining specs? It seems that the case is pretty recent.
May I ask what's the utility of the RAP-10?

M.

Thanks!

The case is an Antec GX200 case from last year. I was looking for a compact full ATX case that could fit the monster size LAPCI, and basically this is pretty much the only one I could find. I really like the case.

Each of the sound cards has a role in the build, the LAPCI for early LA synthesis midi games (MT32), the RAP-10 for General midi support with a genuine Sound Canvas sound. I could replace it with a SCC1 which I also own but don't feel the need. The AWE is for digital sound and the sb pro 2 for FM sound. So far they all seem to coexist perfectly.

The motherboard is an Asus TXP4-X 430TX ATX socket 7 motherboard. I was originally going the K6 III+ route but finally chose to go with a Pentium 233 MMX after testing it with setmul as it gave me access to all the speed variations I was looking for I.e Wing Commander I to Quake II and anything is in-between.

Video card is a Voodoo 3 2000 PCI, mainly chosen for its DOS speed and compatibility and great image quality rather then what it does with 3D.

The PSU it quite unusual , it's a fanless Silentmax 350W PSU, also supports the -5V needed by the LAPCI. With the P233MMX also passively cooled, the PC is virtually silent with just a slow running 120mm fan at the rear making any noise.

I would not trust that PSU to power any PC of mine.

The PSU is high-end German made, very solid.

lvader wrote:

The PSU is high-end German made, very solid.

If it's anything like the one in this review than it's really not solid (page 2 has some (few) pictures):
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article90-page4.html
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article90-page2.html

The review calls it solid, they have some concerns over operation when at full load and when no case fan is used. It's worth noting that many is these where put in HTPCs that were mounted in racks with no ventilation. In my case its no were near full load and in a largish case with sufficient ventilation, both inside and out.I have had this PSU from new and have no concerns with it, it runs cool and is very stable. Important for me, it supports -5V. I also own the newer revision of the PSU (mentioned in the review but not tested) which may be significant.