What a coincidence, someone else had the same caps explode on them with a Promise 2300 today.

Promise 2300+ VLB controller exploded!!

Chadti99 wrote on 2022-03-26, 19:27:

My plan is to remove all the surface components as I’ve read in the POD100 thread it restores the 2.5 multiplier, even with the fan removed.

I wouldn't. The surface components are the voltage regulator. Without them, no power to the cpu core ...

H3nrik V! wrote on 2022-03-27, 13:13:

Chadti99 wrote on 2022-03-26, 19:27:

My plan is to remove all the surface components as I’ve read in the POD100 thread it restores the 2.5 multiplier, even with the fan removed.

I wouldn't. The surface components are the voltage regulator. Without them, no power to the cpu core ...

You would think this, but siting another members experiment:

“ with all the on chip VRM circuitry gone it will boot at 2.5x multiplier with or without the fan”
-stuvize

I’ll find out at some point today if I can get the last component off.

Just can’t get this vrm off the chip. Trying with an iron and low temp alloy aka quick chip or fast chip. Managed to chisel the top off, didn’t help me much.

Sent Chad one of the best memory sticks I have that works on several mobos. High chance it gets him to 212 + fastest in dos.

About the blowing caps of the Promise EIDE2300Plus - maybe a production run is reaching its age these days and things start to fail. Noted. Will be careful with the ones here.

P24t adhesives.
There are two types - the gray one you show here which is difficult to remove and a white one that is very easy to remove.
The gray one I sliced with exactoknife in thin sections which can be removed easily one by one. Put a fresh blade if you go with this approach.

I am not sure why you want to remove the vrm circuitry. Can you explain please ?

So far I was unable to get lights with one of the pod100 cpus at 125mhz on 2-3 different motherboards. Even with 12v Peltier that freezes it hard.
It may be the cpu itself of course. May try the other one soon, or maybe wait and see how far you go before deliding the other chip.

About getting the elements off the chip - you probably noticed how surprisingly sticky these pads are. They just soak the heat from the soldering iron tip which makes everything more difficult than usual.

P24t are cold processors. They work just fine without a heatsink.
But you need to shorten the lower two fan pads for 2.5 multiplier.

pshipkov wrote on 2022-03-27, 15:09:

I am not sure why you want to remove the vrm circuitry. Can you explain please ?

Mostly because I saw an example of someone else doing it. If I understood correctly he was able to boot at 125MHz with a large cooler, without shorting any pins. I’m thinking this would also give you the most surface area for a cooler. This might not work at all but I’m having a bit of fun trying.

Thank you for shipping the module to test!

Do you have a link for the successful 125mhz experiment ?

Using hot air gun is easier to remove the elements.

Got it! While admittedly making a mess of the ceramic surface. You see I was able to remove some of the epoxy with a combo of a soldering iron and abrasion from a solder wick. Might take quite a while to get it all.

Check this thread. Second post from bottom of first page.

Modifying the POD83's voltage regulator for overclocking

Okay, the experiment appears to be a complete failure 🤣. No post after removing components. I must of misread the post. Or destroyed the CPU with heat removing the components.

yeah, i was a bit puzzled about what's the objective with gutting the assembly.

i am tempted to delid another pod100 and try it at 125MHz in case the one i tested was flaky ...

pshipkov wrote on 2022-03-27, 18:15:

yeah, i was a bit puzzled about what's the objective with gutting the assembly.

i am tempted to delid another pod100 and try it at 125MHz in case the one i tested was flaky ...

Do it!

It shouldn’t be too hard to put the three capacitors back on and bridge the 3.3-5 pads to get this guy running again. I’ll give it a shot.

Your POD isn't working without any components soldered on because the CPU isn't getting any voltage. By removing the VRM, you've removed the voltage line. Use the POD100 MOD thread to either a) an ordinary diode to serve as a 0.7 V drop and run the CPU at around 4.1-4.3 V, or b) short the appropriate pads and run the CPU at 5.0 V.

go look up the prices of a working POD83 on ebay then slap yourself in the face

I picked this guy up as gold scrap so I’m okay effing with it. She posts at 125MHz now.

ok getting warmer now.

anything special you did or just bolted the cpu in the socket ?
also, which mobo ?

if this boots i am going to delid the other pod100 that posted before on asus vli.
it has hard adhesive which made me hesitate but not anymore.

pshipkov wrote on 2022-03-27, 20:08:

ok getting warmer now. […]
Show full quote

ok getting warmer now.

anything special you did or just bolted the cpu in the socket ?
also, which mobo ?

if this boots i am going to delid the other pod100 that posted before on asus vli.
it has hard adhesive which made me hesitate but not anymore.

I soldered the original three smd’s back on and shorted the 3.3 and 5 volt pads the VRM used. Also shorted the two bottom fan pins as suggested. Set motherboard for 5volt on the CPU.

Using an LS486e-C2 for now. Also just squeezed some thermal paste over top the old epoxy and slapped a heat sink/fan on. Haven’t had any time to test further, family demanding my attention.

@maxtherabbit
Yeah, prices of everything are up and up.
But retro perf pushing takes what it takes.

@Chadti99
Tried to shorten the second POD100 CPU without deliding it. Cannot get past post and that's only on two motherboards.
Current summary: one of the CPUs is hard no-go. The other one POST from time to time in Asus VLI for example.
I guess i will be watching from the reserves bench for now.
Btw, snap and share a picture of what you got so far - want to make sure i am not missing something simple.

I don’t think I’m any further along, my current setup hangs right after HDD detection. Will try a peltier later in the week.

Had a moment where I thought I had it running a Quake timedemo but later find out the shorted pins on the fan pads came undone and I was only running at 50MHz. Lol

pshipkov wrote on 2022-03-27, 23:50:

@maxtherabbit
Yeah, prices of everything are up and up.
But retro perf pushing takes what it takes.

Yeah I'm all for pushing stuff to the limit. I'm just not in favor of going ham on a part with a chisel removing shit that doesn't need to be removed - all under completely false pretenses.

maxtherabbit wrote on 2022-03-28, 00:56:

pshipkov wrote on 2022-03-27, 23:50:

@maxtherabbit
Yeah, prices of everything are up and up.
But retro perf pushing takes what it takes.

Yeah I'm all for pushing stuff to the limit. I'm just not in favor of going ham on a part with a chisel removing shit that doesn't need to be removed - all under completely false pretenses.

I’ve re-read that thread several times and the guy is saying it was working without any of the components. How, I don’t know. I was talking to him a bit last year through PM but he hasn’t been on the forum for awhile. It could of been completely made up but wanted to give it a shot. Apologies for the horrors bestowed upon you today. Look away in the future 🤣.

The way I see it, I saved a part from scrap, and now it’s useable again. Cosmetically was not in great shape to begin with, already missing the heat sink/fan. Took me an hour to bend all the pins “straight” again. The ceramic isn’t likely scratched, it’s just the metal of my tools has rubbed off on it, which can be cleaned/removed.