My motivation for wanting Nvidia cards to work is purely the fact that ATi cards of that era have some issues in DOS and there aren't any low-profile AGP Voodoo cards (that I know of), rather than performance. At this point I'm probably just going to settle with using my Voodoo 3 in a thicker case or with a riser cable.

Also, Eivind, the newer firmware for the MCU is still working okay for me with the one exception being that the setting for the power LED keeps getting reset. Out of curiosity, would it be possible for you to include that firmware to the Github repo? The BIOS code would be nice too.

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 06:00:

Alright, so I was able to pack everything (ITX llama, Voodoo 3000 and a SATA) in the mini ITX case (bought off ebay and attached the picture).
To do that, I had to use an AGP riser from MODDIY. But man, that was then the nightmare began. With the riser I was unable to get the card working. Then I looked into the signal condition that was causing the issue. So, I shortened the cable to the size that I wanted and soldered all the wires back. That did not help of course and I still did not have the card working. Then I cleaned the cable to have the solder residue removed. That made the card work but it was not stable. Then I wrapped the cable with copper tape (also between the the ribbon cables) and finished it off with Kapton tape. That did the magic and everything is working very well. I had build a custom IO shield and have everything nicely put together. I have two Noctua fans ready to be placed to make the entire thing look amazing. Here is a sneak peek.

I love this setup. You truly have created something special here my guy. It fits with what I feel the whole principle of this build should be.

Would you mind sharing the name of the case you used? If not that's cool

Do you think the AGP riser would work without shortening it? I just don't have the skill to do all that soldering without spazzing out and ripping something.

Dothan Burger wrote on 2024-03-27, 18:00:

I love this setup. You truly have created something special here my guy. It fits with what I feel the whole principle of this […]
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ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 06:00:

Alright, so I was able to pack everything (ITX llama, Voodoo 3000 and a SATA) in the mini ITX case (bought off ebay and attached the picture).
To do that, I had to use an AGP riser from MODDIY. But man, that was then the nightmare began. With the riser I was unable to get the card working. Then I looked into the signal condition that was causing the issue. So, I shortened the cable to the size that I wanted and soldered all the wires back. That did not help of course and I still did not have the card working. Then I cleaned the cable to have the solder residue removed. That made the card work but it was not stable. Then I wrapped the cable with copper tape (also between the the ribbon cables) and finished it off with Kapton tape. That did the magic and everything is working very well. I had build a custom IO shield and have everything nicely put together. I have two Noctua fans ready to be placed to make the entire thing look amazing. Here is a sneak peek.

I love this setup. You truly have created something special here my guy. It fits with what I feel the whole principle of this build should be.

Would you mind sharing the name of the case you used? If not that's cool

Do you think the AGP riser would work without shortening it? I just don't have the skill to do all that soldering without spazzing out and ripping something.

Thank you for your words. Of course I will share the case. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/355147325878
and here is where I got the riser: https://www.moddiy.com/products/AGP-16X-8X-Ex … Riser-15cm.html

I think you probably need to go the copper shielding to get it work. I believe, you should give it a try. Worst case I will try my best to help you.

And here is a picture of the IO panel.

Also, in case anyone likes a proof that this is working, I attached more pictures. I also attached a picture of how much of that cable I had to trim.

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 21:42:

Also, in case anyone likes a proof that this is working, I attached more pictures. I also attached a picture of how much of that cable I had to trim.

That's an interesting idea to have it come out the I/o shield, I like it.

I've never used a Pico power supply before. Do I need to use an AC adapter that matches the same max output of the Pico power supply? I have plenty of 12v adapters that should cut it for this system but aren't up to the max spec of the Pico.

Dothan Burger wrote on 2024-04-02, 04:23:

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-03-27, 21:42:

Also, in case anyone likes a proof that this is working, I attached more pictures. I also attached a picture of how much of that cable I had to trim.

That's an interesting idea to have it come out the I/o shield, I like it.

I've never used a Pico power supply before. Do I need to use an AC adapter that matches the same max output of the Pico power supply? I have plenty of 12v adapters that should cut it for this system but aren't up to the max spec of the Pico.

I am using a 12v 2A generic wall plugged adapter and it works fine. I doubt you will have any issue as long as it gives enough power.
Also, I have been looking to modify the front panel to add the OLED for the MT32. Let's see that comes out.

Here are the results from modifying the front panel to host the OLED display for the MT32-Pi

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-04-09, 15:27:

Here are the results from modifying the front panel to host the OLED display for the MT32-Pi

Nice , going to do something similar, but also add buttons to be able to switch btw gm and Roland mt32 😀

tabm0de wrote on 2024-04-09, 15:32:

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-04-09, 15:27:

Here are the results from modifying the front panel to host the OLED display for the MT32-Pi

Nice , going to do something similar, but also add buttons to be able to switch btw gm and Roland mt32 😀

Yeah, I thought about doing that in a clean way. Then I came up with a touch based method were you touch the bezel of the OLED as a button. I still did not get it work.

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-04-09, 16:06:

tabm0de wrote on 2024-04-09, 15:32:

ahmadexp wrote on 2024-04-09, 15:27:

Here are the results from modifying the front panel to host the OLED display for the MT32-Pi

Nice , going to do something similar, but also add buttons to be able to switch btw gm and Roland mt32 😀

Yeah, I thought about doing that in a clean way. Then I came up with a touch based method were you touch the bezel of the OLED as a button. I still did not get it work.

Nice! it would be kind of neat if it could show a midi tracker.

Has anyone used the ESP8266 module? How do you use it?