VOGONS


First post, by BitWrangler

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I have wanted to try some "don't give a hoot" builds that don't take themselves too seriously. I get locked up in analysis paralysis "what goes best with what" optimised build planning, so thought I'd start the other end, what's the crappiest parts I've got that will hang together in a system?

A story to lend flavour, putative scenario, it could have happened like this...

It's Christmas 2000, you are in your mid teens, you wake up excited to see what presents you got. You were real careful with your list, top of it, you put a 250cc Yamaha dirtbike and all the kit, heh, a ringer, you knew your Mom would NEVER go for that, and $3000+ was a bit steep, second, the real ask, and you put a lot of thought into this, a notch or so down from complete bleeding edge, so you'd get most power for the price, and they could shop for a deal, a new computer, PIII 800 with Voodoo graphics! And then some fillers maybe the aunts or grandma would get you, new skateboard, cd walkman, few albums you wanted... ... later you're sitting stunned... giftwrap all around, fake smile on your face with the new $50 WalMart skateboard, while Mom says Dad got wiped out in DotComs... no computer... Aunt Suzy got you the Venturer CD player, eh, it'll work.... ... ... ... 2001 You hustle, start out shoveling a bit of snow... mow a few lawns in the summer... at least you can listen to CDs your buddy copied for you... earn a few bucks... but your buddies want you to go to the movies... there's a pair of jeans you want... man this bread comes hard... never gonna get a PC... unless... how hard can it be to throw one together?? ... few cheap new parts... beg the rest... fill the gaps with used...

Motherboard: MSI MS-6340 K7TM Pro, KM133 SDRAM .... lowest end socket A board I've got
CPU: Duron 900 Spitfire core
Graphics: Radeon SDR/7000 VE AGP
RAM: 2x128MB SDRAM DIMM, not quite so low low end, 7ns chips
PSU: 200W should be enough for this, so I'm using 475W... that I just about trust to do 200W, yeah a "don't leave it out in a stiff breeze or it will blow away" unit.
HDD: 20GB fireball that betrays it's name.
OS: 98SE
Case: Yeah about that, that's where it gets weird...

I have a monitor stand, I do not require it to stand a monitor upon, it is in fact a bit of an awkward size, not quite the size for sliding modern laptops under for modern docking purposes, a bit of a spacehog compared to the foot of most LCDs I've got, and a bit lost if used under big CRTs, so I decided it needed a new purpose in life. The top surface is actually another panel that is screwed on, and thus I removed it to maybe form a lid. The stand is to be used upside down and the legs extended to rest lid upon. Card holder is some pieces of cheap meccano/erector set knockoff screwed to the game port. PSU will go behind motherboard, just. The build might end up resembling a glorified test rig, or might gain some side panels and look presentable, not sure yet, just gonna roll with it...

Some difficulties were encountered in determining if the board was fit to use...

BitWrangler wrote on 2023-08-08, 18:23:
This thing is trying to drive me nuts. Last night, last few attempts, couldn't get a POST screen, this morning jiggled a couple […]
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BitWrangler wrote on 2023-08-08, 02:10:
BitWrangler wrote on 2023-08-07, 02:23:
Update... a 3rd different RAM stick tried and I have the POST screen w00t. This was after 2 different CPUs and 2 PSUs lol ... we […]
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Update... a 3rd different RAM stick tried and I have the POST screen w00t. This was after 2 different CPUs and 2 PSUs 🤣 ... weirdly it was giving "total deadness" vibes when no RAM inserted, then after CPU change was doing the "lottery numbers" picking, but no RAM codes, it should have been giving me RAM codes dammit... unless it didn't support the refresh type on those DRAMs or something super esoteric. Though I noticed I may have missed a clue, because although it was giving me a lot of crap it did report it could not initialise the display adapter 2 or 3 times in there. Now, I was just trying the onboard cyber fleem delta sheen or whatever, and I guess it could not initialise because it couldn't allocate RAM. Not having the penny drop yet, I stuck an AGP card in there and got more randomness.

I thought that RAM I was using at first was good though. Sometimes I wonder if it's sheer force of will that brings boards up, or dotting all the "i"s crossing all the "t"s or some variation of just showing the board you're not a n00b lightweight to be messed around with. Pre-threatening them with the giant soldering iron used to put the fear of .... me .. into them, maybe should start doing that again.

Anyway, that's an extra gotcha to note with onboard graphics boards, if complain about display adapter, think about where or if it's getting it's display buffer.

Though the board has been "kicking around" for years, it's possible it took enough CPU and RAM changes to scrape the oxide off the sockets.

So, back to a bit more fiddling with the dumb thing...

Well now I feel like a shrub on a flat-top... premature declaration of victory... it's still flaky as hell. Seems more likely to get to POST screen when off for a while... went sniping with freezer spray and thought I'd narrowed it down... but then it became not repeatable.... and I'm getting too much condensation today to keep at it. Might whack a couple of capacitors on it if I have any matches in the stash. I was thinking earlier that I might replace the one between AGP and Northbridge (MS-6340) as the pic on RetroWeb and a few others for sale used on a search are showing it bulged and leaky. Mine looks fine, but it looks like that one is usually the first to go, the most hammered, so I'll play the odds. Would make sense of the randomness if the northbridge is getting glitched.

This thing is trying to drive me nuts. Last night, last few attempts, couldn't get a POST screen, this morning jiggled a couple of things, now I can't get a fault, even rejiggling and lifting and dropping the board half an inch to jar it. I mean it's POST screen to the max now, down to complaining about CMOS settings wiped (Not sure that was on the bottom of the earlier POSTs) ... hmmmmm... had it left there a few minutes to heat soak some, still turns off and restarts fine... lifting suspicion off the caps??? I guess. Damn I wish I had an inspection scope. Will eyeball for obvious solder probs. Still could be down to oxidation probs. Might have to get the "real good" contact cleaner out to it, but it feels like you can count the dollars flowing out by the second when you squirt that stuff. First it'll get the old q-tip and IPA two step (Not the beer)

I bet you are asking "BitWrangler, why are you screwing around with this worthless piece of crap?" well, because it's a worthless piece of crap and I need to hone my techniques for a couple of boards that are rarer and more interesting.

edit: thorough alcohol clean of the slots and now it's taking the RAM it rejected first time around. Man, why couldn't it just give me sensible RAM errors. I guess this is because I didn't just do a proper alcohol clean FIRST... I kinda suckered myself into this rabbit hole from a "just see if it's got enough life to bother with" POV

Also applied toothpaste to a heatsink for a test.... worked fairly well.... heh gotcha.. the test was to see if it got the gummy remains of a thermal pad off it, where it was just kinda smearing with solvents. So now have a heatsink with minty fresh breath.

EditII: Now it's working with one of the CPUs I wanted to use in the first place, I say one of, one of my 900s has been bridge modded and it didn't like it, but possibly it's a 133 or mobile mod it didn't like so not sure if that one is working or died sometime, will have to try it in a less stupid board. Confusing matters was that first release BIOS didn't support 900Mhz, but first time I got the POST screen it showed it had a few revisions newer one to which it had support added. No Packard Hell branding in evidence so far, maybe this is a retail board, or had retail BIOS put on it.

EditIII: Noodling around in it's CMOS setup, kind of an early stability test too, there's some boards will lock up while you're doing this if something ain't right... anyway, for it's time/market positioning it's fairly decent, some settings to play with, a smidge of overclocking, boot off zip or LS, no boot off USB tho, USB keyboard legacy support but not mouse, Legacy audio support, set SB settings I5 D220 etc. Think I'm about done messing around with it, time to throw something together.

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Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 1 of 20, by Pierre32

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I love a shitty build: Re: Retro computer builds that surprised you the most because they worked better than expected

I also love a test bench made from repurposed items:

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So what is next for your masterpiece? We must see it in action.

Reply 2 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Yes I could use a dedicated test rig/stand, I have in mind a particular kind of citrus fruit crate I have seen around, but whenever I come across one lately, it's bent broken or slimed.

So, I've got the board screwed down, 3 self tapping screws through base, the PSU screwed in, 2 screws on the back edge via "meccano" pieces. Got all the leg extensions installed, these are 2cm cube "beads" from the craft section of dollar store, seem to be made of hard beech. Two of those are stacked and a deck screw run through them, countersunk. They are offset because of the taper of the legs, so that sides if later attached will be vertical, and also they come to the corners of the lid without overhang. Got the card frame steadied, seems pretty solid when a card installed. Note the last PCI slot is obscured, but I still have 2 to use, and the 3rd one can still be used for internal cards, like a goldfinch, RAID card or PowerVR.

Pic of the Radeon that's going in. May mix it up with the GPUs later, maybe try a TnT2 and a SiS Xabre 200.

Need to figure out the optical drive, button/LED panel and card reader mounting. Figure they're going to dangle off the lid, but I don't really want screw heads on the top surface. Thinking maybe I could try pop rivets because they are lower profile, or I might epoxy in the brackets, but plastic and metal have a habit of flexing apart with wear.

Edit: Oh I meant to say something about the PSU, it's an "Orion" the only reason I'm using it at all is because it's got a CSA number and when I checked last year or so, they were still selling them, since a decade back or so. Thus not having been sued off the market, I figured it wasn't actually gonna burn my house down, but I'm still gonna keep it switched off when I'm asleep or out etc.
EditII: Looked it up again, found BadCaps teardown which makes me feel mildly better about it, not quite bottom of the barrel, they reckon it's good for 350W.. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8011

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    Radeon SDR or 7000VE IDK there's even sellers calling them DDRs this model.
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Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 3 of 20, by mkarcher

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BitWrangler wrote on 2023-08-10, 02:36:

Pic of the Radeon that's going in. May mix it up with the GPUs later, maybe try a TnT2 and a SiS Xabre 200.

That card is a Radeon VE aka Radeon 7000. This card is not to be confused with the "Radeon SDR" that got later renamed (along with the Radon DDR) to Radeon 7200. The Radeon VE indeed uses DDR RAM, so the sellers listing that card as "DDR" are not wrong. In contrast to all other Radeon cards (including the Radeon 7200), the Radeon VE / Radeon 7000 doesn't include Hardware Transform & Lighting. While the Radeon 7200 used 128 bit memory access, the Radeon 7000 only uses 64 bit memory access, so the data rate of the Radeon 7000 with DDR RAM is very similar to the Radeon 7200 with SDR RAM.

Reply 4 of 20, by Standard Def Steve

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I have the PowerColor version of that card, which IIRC looks identical. It's a slow, slow card that even manages to bottleneck the life out of a P2-450. At first, I placed most of the blame on the single pixel pipeline. Later on, when I had the card in an XP machine, I discovered through GPU-Z that it only has a 32-bit memory bus. 32-bit!

However, I don't believe all 7000/VEs use a 32-bit memory interface. This PowerColor is some late model, ultra-trash version that I picked up at Staples for 29.99 CAD in 2005 because I needed a third DVI output.

94 MHz NEC VR4300 | SGI Reality CoPro | 8MB RDRAM | Each game gets its own SSD - nooice!

Reply 5 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Yah a 450 is a bit of a bad combo for these no T&L cores apparently they need a few more mhz to wake up Anand's CPU scaling test ..
https://www.anandtech.com/show/721/11

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 6 of 20, by mkarcher

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Standard Def Steve wrote on 2023-08-10, 15:35:

Later on, when I had the card in an XP machine, I discovered through GPU-Z that it only has a 32-bit memory bus. 32-bit!

The memory chips on the Radeon 7000VE chips have 16 bits per chip. Usually, these cards have 4 chips, 16 Megabytes each for 64MB total. In fact, there are some cards having only two of these chips, a total memory 32MB and 32 bit memory bandwidth. They might be usable as DVI-capable office cards, but obviously they are not recommendable for 3D at all. When you want to go low-end Radeon for a non-3D-gaming build with DVI output, I would still suggest a Radeon 9000/9200/9250 over a 7000. On the other hand, if you care about analog VGA signal quality, stay clear of anything labeled Radeon 9200 or 9250.

Reply 8 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Yesterday kinda stalled out with interruptions, and that I went off on a false trail thinking about hinges for the top. I wanted the top to "stay in position" somehow, because otherwise hooking up the drive cables etc was going to be a bummer. Also altering anything inside with drives on the lid would be annoying. So I went off on some hinge hunts, drew blank, thought about various complex arrangements and... decided screw it, this is suppose to be crude and simple, using cable tie loops to hook on the uprights to keep the lid in position, first pic hopefully.

Then got into mounting drives on the lid, was going to do more brackets, but I got rather annoyed fighting with the rivet gun, it's like a fastener system that works all the time some of the time, spent more time digging the failed rivets out than anything else. It might be that I've got crappy rivets, they were breaking the stem bit at odd points, like a little up from where the notch was in it, where it's meant to break. They didn't seem to be clinching fully either. Some of it might be that the joint was an in between thickness, I had 1/4" inch long rivets and half inch long rivets, the quarter inch were clinching below the bracket and pushing it away, the 1/2" weren't fully clinching on it. So I guess I needed 3/8. Having only got two on there firmly, I was all "screw that, zipties for the rest".

Last pic is side view, not a lot of clearance. Looks a bit worse than it is on this pic, the drive is covering about a third of the HSF and since fans tend to draw most from the hub area and throw it out, this is probably not restricting as much as it seems. The graphics card isn't all that close either I can get two fingers between them... IDK if I'm gonna get some "snow" from the IDE cable being close though.

You might notice that the "back" of the board is at right side, and "back" of PSU is at the left, with nothing at the actual back, this is sort of a design decision of thinking "What if I could push it all the way back to a wall" rather than having to leave cable clearance.

edit: BTW never saw what case or system that button/light panel came from, arrived here stuffed in a bag with a other random case wiring in a box lot of used heatsinks I got ages back.

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Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 9 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Pierre32 wrote on 2023-08-12, 00:26:

Just loving that Meccano setup. I'll have to look out for cheap bits on my local marketplace to upgrade my balsa crate bench.

Well then, additional "meccano" abuse is called for then. I figured some klutzy dope who might be using this machine might stick the end of a cable into the HSF by accident, so I put in some defenses... the large black piece is actually a punch out drive bay cover that's been hanging around for ages.

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    Anti idiot fence, in case he misses the ports.
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Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 10 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Ugh, just noticed the USB header pinout is screwy if the manual is right, it's got the left side pins in right order, right side in reverse order, if the card reader/usb had two single in line 5 pins I could just plug them in in different directions but no, got the 10 pin block. Possibly the idea was it didn't matter which way round you plugged it in, but that's what the key pin is for, gah. So tomorrow, scratching around to see if I have alternative hookups or whether I need to fiddle with that one and rewire.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 11 of 20, by Jo22

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Trash thrash, quick and derpy, low end socket A ...

Here's Derpy for you. Glad I could help. 🤗

derpy_can_fix_things_wp_by_martybpix-d5xdyku.png?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJpc3MiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwic3ViIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl0sIm9iaiI6W1t7InBhdGgiOiIvZi9jYTA2ZDE5Yi02Zjg4LTQwYmEtOTVlYy02YTI4OTk4ZjE5MDkvZDV4ZHlrdS0xYjFkYzgyNy0zMWUxLTQ1MzMtOTMzYi1lODgzZGY3NGRjMzYucG5nIiwid2lkdGgiOiI8PTYwMCIsImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9MzM4In1dXX0.uxz5Pp7dMHmaeXTc5ZHOrPKKbdzCnL-HQZUCOYpW7Nosource

"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel

//My video channel//

Reply 12 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Damn I need to have a proper tweener system for making HDD setups easy. My AM2 rig was being a pain the arse, with changing boot priorities all the time and having 3 separate menus to set the boot devices, and then I went and ran the live USB version of Ubuntu 22, which is dog f**king, dining and giving it a manicure and spa treatment slow, timing out a load of hardware checks I think, so spent all last night screwing around with that, and then it turns out GnuParted seems to have screwed up... in maybe two ways, maybe one, maybe didn't set active flag when it said it did, definitely didn't set up a logical drive right, which I fruitlessly copied a load of install files to. Thought it was a bit odd when I created the extended partition, then it wouldn't give me an option to create logical partition in extended partition, so I thought it had just max sized the logical partition and formatted it. Well despite looking fine on linux and letting me copy files to it, windows does not see it, only an extended partition with no FStype. For speed and accuracy I should have booted an old knoppix, at least I know that works.

Then this board is being weird with two hard drives plugged in, despite what you set it seems to want to try and fail to boot off first drive on primary, and is getting some 120 second timeout delays deciding on whether 80 conductor cables are good. I don't know if they are or whether the board signal integrity isn't all that great, but I figured I'd rather deal with the "not an 80 conductor" nag and use 40 pin ATA33 for now because I am trying to get shit going. Anyway, booted an old 98 install in safe mode, and I don't know whether looking to see what was going on in Fdisk caused it to drop the active flag on me, but now the drive I'm tryna install ain't got one. Was trying to avoid hooking up a floppy, but might be easiest. Though I'm gonna fire up a knoppix CD and see if I can sort it out with that.

Think I gotta get myself a 98Se generic install to just clone and stretch onto stuff and avoid all this nonsense, or just brace myself to do it tradit way boot floppy and CDROM

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 13 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Gah, finally, Win98SE installed... I had to go via "screw this, Ima use a floppy..." then realised this PSU doesn't have floppy power and I couldn't lay hands on any of the adapter cables... and didn't wanna mess with balancing another PSU and the floppy and the HDD on top of it to get it done... so fired up Puppy Bionic Beaver 32bit on the AM2 and that was slick and fast and the GParted on that was a version that let me set flags direct, set boot flag, set LBA flag on extended partition (Think that's why it wasn't seen, did have log part in ext part, but something still a bit hinky with it because scandisk hung up, though it looks like it's reading now) and thennnnn, I still weren't not booting good...

So that board lets you set boot order by HDD0, 1, 2, 3 and for some reason, won't hit up the secondary master whatever you set it to when there's a primary master, jerk. IDK quite what is up with it, I'll see if the Chinglish on the BIOS updates makes sense for a prob like that (Boots secondary fine when nothing on primary). Anyway, finally just stuck them both on one cable, managed to boot off the slave which was an old Win98 volume, use that to sys the D: which was master I was trying to install on... and still no booty... "no operating system found".... why did I think sys set up the MBR??? is that only format /s ?? anyway finally realised it didn't, and secret incantation of fdisk /cmbr 2 was needed to finally sort it, and I could finally boot off the 20GB Quantum and run the setup.

So it's ended up running on the 40 wire cable in ATA33 mode, but apart from the nag at boot, it probably don't matter much, as the drive goes all of 2Mb/sec faster at peak for the first few MB of the disk. ... https://goughlui.com/the-hard-disk-corner/qua … -5-20-5gb-2001/ I think that's about what to expect, though that's the AS not the LCT, which I think is actually slower, IDK, Fireball used to mean fastest of the fast, then it meant "The label that sells anything" like Barracuda for Seagate.

Edit: meant to mention, there was an old version of SiSoft Sandra on the old 98 install drive, which booted in safe mode, and ran that and the bench scores were looking good not far behind PIII 1000 reference so think board is performing as it should, "Junior" in the story got his PIII 800 performance 8 months later.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 14 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Wow, that lasted all of 30 seconds...

Got the optical hooked up, most of the front panel, then took it for a spin, optical drive was stuck but manually opened and exercised it and seems to be working again. But then, stuck a CD in with some shareware versions of ID stuff on, got 30 seconds into E1M1 DoomSW and lock.... freezes up, HDD light on... unresponsive, no switching on numlock/capslock, no response to ctrl alt del, had to hold power down for 8 secs... turned off... fire it up again, the HDD light flickers then stays on, nothing else happens... unplug HDD... all power off unplug... blip switch discharge.. power on again same thing, one blip of HDD light and then stays on, nothing on screen... maybe had real faint burning smell, IDK was sniffing at it real hard. Not sure what the hell happened, mayyybe lost a cap... gotta tear it back down to basics and get the POST card back on it after lunch I guess.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 15 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Stupid thing has gone back to that "picking lottery numbers" fail mode, C1 C3 25 2B 1D etc no particular order.. half of them don't even make sense.. purpose "reserved" for 4.51pg but in other versions they're things like "checking 5th slot" it doesn't have a 5th slot. Took out the CPU and nuked it with the high power contact cleaner... no improvement... maybe I'll try the RAM slots but I had the impression it was more to do with the CPU socket last time... either I'm gonna need to detail clean about 800 contacts individually with a toothpick or it needs a reflow or something.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 16 of 20, by BitWrangler

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It's a precision instrument the same as a hammer is, but seem to have narrowed down problem area on board with freezer spray. Premium contact cleaner on RAM slots did "nothing" (They might be cleaner but didn't make it POST). Anyway, any time this area is hit with the freezer spray, I can get it to POST to system summary, and by that time the frost is gone and it blackscreens. I do not think it's the electrolytics as hitting them specifically does nothing, it seems to be some bad connection or one of the SMDs acting up. Gotta find a hard point in something non-conductive to press things with, pressing larger elements, packages, with a pen didn't seem to do anything, while powering on.

It's like where's Waldo, for geeks....

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Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 17 of 20, by BitWrangler

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Holy crap, prodding and prodding and prodding and prodding... but none of the SMDs.... got it I hope though, that big green cap to the right, happened to wobble it and felt the very faint tick, yup, moves just like it shouldn't, it's loose in a hole... had to get board out, flipped it up, could only very barely see the crack line but the solder was just lifting off the via, damn. Didn't think I could get a pic of it though it was that hard to see. Touched it with the iron, now gonna try putting power to it again, cross your fingers...

edit: Impossible! How could that not be the big IT it ??? Getting the same errors again and wedging on C1 if I do them back to back without a minute or so in between. That voltage IC is getting ouchy hot, maybe it's RAM voltage that's going funky. How could it have glitched somehow working enough to boot windows safe mode a few times, Install windows98SE and play a round of hearts, then glitch out again following day, and be not glitching back in... though I did think I should have pulled that cap all the way off in case it lifted a trace on top and broke it.. but still, back to shooting cold make work for short while. Guess I gotta actually measure some stuff, my probes are too fat, better find some pins and clips.

EditII: Wednesday update, ignoring the hell out of it before I throw it through a window 🤣

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 18 of 20, by BitWrangler

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l33t++

Got real tied up with house and homestead stuff, organising a new roof and other matters. Kinda dropping a note to myself to be sure to fully pull the main power capacitors and look under them for fractured traces. Don't think I'll get back to this or other hands on retro until nearly November.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 19 of 20, by PcBytes

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I like that you call a KM133 board that crappy.. I have a SiS 730 based PCChips here that might win that title 🤣 lmao

"Enter at your own peril, past the bolted door..."
Main PC: i5 3470, GB B75M-D3H, 16GB RAM, 2x1TB
98SE : P3 650, Soyo SY-6BA+IV, 384MB RAM, 80GB