Looks like a 16V 220uF tantalum capacitor. If the leg or trace isn't ripped off, you can just solder it back down.

As for the other part completely broken off, it is a decoupling capacitor, likely the same as the others between the ends of the vram. You can take one off the other spot to measure it.

The two pictures are of the same thing. The legs that go into the capacitor are broken right where they enter the capacitor. I don't know if I could resolder those two broken connections. There are four of these on the card, and they are all marked the same. The pads all look good, it's just the legs that are broken on it.

Just found the datasheet for that series tantalum. It is a 10V/220uF. Just need to measure it to get the case size, then you can order a replacement.

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/40/TPS-2066671.pdf

When you say case size, do you mean the size of the capacitor? Or do you mean try to measure it with my multimeter? Sorry for my cluelessness, but I'm also wondering, after the 227A does the L456L mean something as well? Do I need to find that as well? I really do apologize, but identifying what is the important information for the SMD parts is daunting for me. If I can find the proper part and fix this, it will be only my 2nd SMD repair attempt. And the first I had a lot of help with. Thank you to Wiretap for your help so far. I apologize that I am still not 100% getting it.

Besides the capacitance and voltage rating, the physical dimensions of the capacitor are the last important factor to determine for selecting a suitable replacement. If you have calipers (preferable) or a ruler with millimeters, measure the dimensions as best you can.

L456L is production markings indicating the part was produced in the 45th week of 1999 in batch 6L. This is not important information for replacing the part.

Ahh. Okay. So the L456L is something else entirely. I don't have a set of calipers, but it is on the list for tools to get. I just finally got a Hakko Desoldering device, the FR-301. I will see if I can borrow a set of calipers from a friend to get the measurements . Thank you for the clarification on the L456L code and its meaning.

nathanieltolbert wrote on 2022-02-21, 01:03:

The two pictures are of the same thing. The legs that go into the capacitor are broken right where they enter the capacitor. I don't know if I could resolder those two broken connections. There are four of these on the card, and they are all marked the same. The pads all look good, it's just the legs that are broken on it.

theres one capacitor still hanging on by a leg, and another that's gone.

I had not realized that there was supposed to be something there. Looking over the other side of the board that has the same layout of the 227a, there is a capacitor there. There are no markings on it, and it's very tiny. Way too small for me to even attempt. What a bummer. I was really hoping I could fix this old card up and use it.

I could do the soldering for you but I suppose you're not from Germany so shipping is probably going to be too expensive.

If I'm right in my assumption you could let us know where you're located and somebody else may be able to help you out.

Thank you for the offer, I am in the US, so shipping would be extremely expensive.

I have continued to look around locally. Sadly, the person I used to go to for help with things like this passed away, and I just don't know anyone in the local retro computer community that could help me with this. I'm sure if I started making connections with the local retro electronics community, that I could find someone I could get to help me with this with proper compensation. But I just can't seem to find the time. For now it's just set on the back burner. I need to learn how to repair these old electronics in regards to surface mount solder work, but it seems so daunting to me. And I am terrified to ruin some old electronic device that is way too much to replace. This is all on me. I have watched surface mount soldering, I have read books, so I have an understanding. I just am terrified of destroying what I am working on. I need to get some learn surface mount solder kits and just practice practice practice.

I got help from Pancakepuppy on here to replace the damaged parts. The card works perfectly now thank you! It is running quite happily in an old K6-III+ 450 OCed to 500. A quaint machine for the time period. Thank you so much for the help!

nathanieltolbert wrote on 2022-05-12, 18:08:

I have watched surface mount soldering, I have read books, so I have an understanding. I just am terrified of destroying what I am working on. I need to get some learn surface mount solder kits and just practice practice practice.

not kits, go to goodwill or some recycling center and pick some cheap old useless computer parts. Practice on those.