I just got two mainboards - Tualatin compatible MSI 694T Pro and super 7 DFI P5BV3+/e with K6-2 533 CPU, with AGP slot, and also a Celeron 366 with a slotket adapter. I paid equivalent of 9EUR for that, including shipping, these things were sold as junk (with exception of Celeron) and there was a lot of dirt on them. These are the photos I got from the seller.
stuff1.jpg
When I unpacked everything, i noticed that the 694t mainbord is demolished - it had 2 capacitors, one diode and part of memory slot torn off. I got equv. 2,5 EUR refund for that one because it looked different than on photo. But I really wanted to have a Tualatin mainboard, so I tried to repair it... First, I needed to clean it with compressed air and wipe the sticky dirt with alcohol and brush.
damaged1.jpg
I took an different, damaged mainboard and cut off a part of memory slot with a dremel-like tool. I extracted only the plastic part.
Then I straightened the pins, soldered one new pin, and I did some milling and polishing on the remaining part of memory slot, so it has no jagged edges. I also put some force on the plastic so it became straight. Then I soldered two capacitors (I assummed that they had to be 1000uF), and soldered a regular Schottky diode (had no SMD one and I wanted the repair to be costless). I assumed it had to be Shottky because all of the diodes with that size were Schottky on this mainboard.
rep222.jpg
Finally, it was time to test it. Before I put the plastic part on the slot, I just pushed a PC133 module in and squeezed the pins. I couldn't believe that, but the computer worked! I put the plastic cover on memory slot pins and I have now a frankenstein-mainboard with tualatin support for free. It is rock-stable, I did benchmarks for several hours and no bluescreens at all. It also overclocks nice, and has about 420MB/s memory bandwith and doesn't need any interleave-enabler patches. But it still looks pretty "unfresh", i couldn't clean all the impurities.
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Super 7 mainboard - it also required some cleaning, it had one big scratch on the back side, so i sanded the solder mask in one place and just put some solder there, then covered it with transparent tape. I also replaced one capacitor. After this, it looked like a new! I set the jumpers properly, turned it on, and... it also worked!
s7_clean_m.jpg
Well, I think that getting all this stuff for ~6,5EUR isn't a bad deal. Caps would cost ~0,2EUR and the diode ~0,02EUR, but i already had them.