F2bnp wrote:

That's quite alright.

Unfortunately, I'm getting the full voltage (3.1V) on both the anode and on the cathode, with the jumper making zero difference on either position (and completely removed). What am I to make of this?

The CMOS chip has gone bad I suppose?

Please follow PCBONEZ's advice and try to trace the circuit from the battery positive to pin 102. You have already established that D1 is part of the circuit, and it receives the current. Next try to follow the trace that leaves the cathode, i think it will be quite easy as i see this circuit use a somewhat wider trace. Start from both ends (pin 102 and D1) and see what's between. Maybe a broken trace or via, maybe a resistor failed open circuit...

appiah4 wrote:

The CMOS chip has gone bad I suppose?

The CMOS is inside the southbridge, and the voltage doesn't reach pin 102 where it's supposed to.

F2bnp wrote:

Unfortunately, I'm getting the full voltage (3.1V) on both the anode and on the cathode, with the jumper making zero difference on either position (and completely removed). What am I to make of this?

The diode appears good but could be shorted.
Shorted would not cause your problem and diodes rarely fail by shorting. (They usually fail open.)

Next step.
Find the next component between that diode and the pin and check that for a voltage drop.
Probably be a resistor or another diode and it could be on either side of the board.

Bear in mind at some point the circuit will branch.
That is where the alternate power from the PSU enters.
When you find a component with full batt voltage on one side and not the other it might not be the bad part, it might instead be in the wrong branch.
Once you find a part with the expected voltage drop you will need to do additional continuity checks to verify you are in the correct branch.

[Edit] Said branch may actually be ON pin 102.
.

quicknick made a good point that I neglected to mention.

Sometimes the bad "component" is just a conductor.
.... Meaning a circuit trace or via that has failed open.
Bad solder joints also fall into that category.
.

I think I fall in the second category. I can't locate anything else between the diode and pin 102, as both ends of the trace end up in different vias.

Check the resistance via to via.
Then switch your leads and do it again. (In case there is a diode in there.)

If you get anything other than zero (both ways) you need to find where they come out on the other side of the board and see what's going on.

Also see if that pins is connected to anything else. If it is that is where the branch I was concerned about comes in.
Prolly have to Easter egg that one. Put one lead on the pin and poke around looking for some continuity.
.

Well, I went ahead and did something extreme. I just soldered a cable and a resistor in between Pin 102 and the diode as a last resort solution. Well, it seems to work, I didn't have enough time to fool around with it, but it seems to no longer complain about losing settings.

Updates coming soon, I might get to do the massive tests I've wanted to do for a while now.

Congrats!

I got this motherboard the last week, and i noticed the same. Then i searched on internet and got me here. Same problem, with the same motherboard! ( but mine is REV B.5 ).

Is there is any new workaround about this ? Unfortunately i have no tools and no skill to do any hardware modifications...like soldering these tiny lanes.