The picture has no battery. Does it have a battery? I suppose it could be a bricked bios flash. But it could be a lot of things.

I assume you tried different ram sticks. If not you should.

Hello Warlord and thank you for your answer 😀

Yes, I tried with a battery with the same result.
Differents memory sticks and CPU tested, each one resulting in a "0000" POST code 🙁
BIOS has been successfully (at least in the uniflash meaning of the word) hot flashed to the newest version available. No life signs...

Looks like"JBAT" is missing a jumper?
It might even miss a pin?
Also it might be the light, but the CPU slot pins look weird.
Also "SW1" is completely wrong for any type of CPU's
And considering the rust i'd give it a proper clean and deoxit.

Hello bofh.fromhell, thanks for your answer ! 😀

Yes, JBAT has a missing pin. I soldered a jumper to the back of the card.
Concerning the slot, yes, it is the light, pins look OK.

You are right for the rust. I have made a cleaning using isopropyl alcohol with no change.

parhelia512 wrote on 2021-03-16, 19:56:

Hello bofh.fromhell, thanks for your answer ! :) […]
Show full quote

Hello bofh.fromhell, thanks for your answer ! 😀

Yes, JBAT has a missing pin. I soldered a jumper to the back of the card.
Concerning the slot, yes, it is the light, pins look OK.

You are right for the rust. I have made a cleaning using isopropyl alcohol with no change.

Sorry I edited my post.
Check the SW1 jumper block, its wrong =)

200MHz = 1 1 0 1
233MHz = 1 0 0 1
266MHz = 1 1 1 0
300MHz = 1 0 1 0
333MHz = 1 1 0 0

Right again, I tried the 266 configuration with no change, I removed the jumpers to have the same configuration as the one when I received the board.

You have good eyes 😁

Does the Reset led on your diagnostic board turn off shortly after power-up? Cold CPU might mean it's stuck in reset.

Hello quicknick

Here is the status of the diagnostic board :

Not familiar with this model. Is that the one that's prone to blow up your board if you use it on the ISA slots because that part is too short and it's a loose fit? (please don't try 😁 )

Is one of those LEDs labeled "reset"? If so, it should light briefly when you apply power and then go dark.

Does the card display four dashes "----" instead of "0000" if you start the board without CPU or BIOS?

Not sure whether it's this one or not but I have never been able to make it work on an ISA slot 😁

LEDs are not labeled (only the electrical L for LED) and manual was not included when I received it (not a problem for post codes).
Without CPU or without BIOS, display is the same "0000" 😒

Reinsert CPU a few dozen times and it should come back to life (unless chipset is fried), I had a few such "dead" motherboards that ended up having only an unreliable slot 1 connection.

Hello SSTV2, thanks for this suggestion.

I will try this.
Northbridge and southbridge seems to heat up normaly but I can't say if they are OK or not.

quicknick wrote on 2021-03-16, 20:34:

Not familiar with this model. Is that the one that's prone to blow up your board if you use it on the ISA slots because that part is too short and it's a loose fit? (please don't try 😁 )

Is one of those LEDs labeled "reset"? If so, it should light briefly when you apply power and then go dark.

Does the card display four dashes "----" instead of "0000" if you start the board without CPU or BIOS?

That looks a lot like the one I have, and after checking, it looks identical to the one I have and it is utterly useless for ISA.
and yes, it is a loose fit!
there are some traces departing the ISA connector, and they run underneath the chip but aren't connected to anything.
also the ISA pads are this rounded shape, slightly too short which gives it an odd feel

on PCI it works. It uses the CH311L chip, and it is actually found on the PCI bus as a device.

the leds are pretty useless if I recall, they are just connected to the power lines.

parhelia512 : I did get a manual with it, but it was all in chinese so completely useless to me.

Hello weedeewee !

Yes, same card. It's working correctly on PCI slots and I now understand why this is not the case on the ISA ones 😁

Still no life after reinserting something like 100 times the cpu in the slot 😒
I don't understand why the CPU is dead cool athough it seems receiving the good voltage...

1. Dead CPU
2. CPU held under reset. Unfortunately your diagnostics card seems useless from this point of view, so you either source a better one (the one with 8 LEDs, if it's still available) or study the PII/PIII datasheets to locate the reset pin, and what state it should have for the CPU to run (high or low, brain is hazy right now so I can't tell for sure).

parhelia512 wrote on 2021-03-17, 16:41:

I don't understand why the CPU is dead cool athough it seems receiving the good voltage...

How many voltages have you measured? pretty sure slot1 has more than 1 voltage present on the bus.
There's the cpu voltage that's written on the package, I think that's the 2.9v you measured.
...
VCC5, VCCL2/VCC3.3, and VCCCORE
Page 17 https://web.archive.org/web/20060622200013/ht … ts/24445209.pdf
Page 70 pin listing VTT is 1.5

enjoy ! 😀 also pretty sure pwrgood needs to be present which apparently is 2.5 volt
though chances are none of what I just mentioned will solve the problem it's still worth a look, just in case it does.

I found this site with slot 1 pinout : http://ps-2.kev009.com/eprmhtml/eprma/f706.htm

Problem is that I haven't been able to make measurements from the slot 1 itself but only from the motherboard back and I am not sure of how both sides match.

parhelia512 wrote on 2021-03-17, 18:28:

I found this site with slot 1 pinout : http://ps-2.kev009.com/eprmhtml/eprma/f706.htm

Problem is that I haven't been able to make measurements from the slot 1 itself but only from the motherboard back and I am not sure of how both sides match.

This https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/common … on_300A_MHz.jpg should help 😁

parhelia512 wrote on 2021-03-17, 16:41:

Still no life after reinserting something like 100 times the cpu in the slot 😒
I don't understand why the CPU is dead cool athough it seems receiving the good voltage...

Bad luck. Now, if you are absolutely sure that all of the traces are OK, no passive SMD components are missing or damaged, all connections/connectors are OK and no pins shorting inside or underneath them, and CPU with PSU are fine aswell, then you are left with either a faulty northbridge, insufficient power delivery for the CPU/chipset or cold solder joint somewhere. Clock generator could be faulty too, but IIRC clock is not required for CPU to get hot, at least it's not needed for newer ATX motherboards.

I'd recommend to wash that board first, caked dust/conductive debris underneath BGA chips might cause problems.