i need a copy of Windas that is 95 compatible OR i need to get a 98se compatible PCMIA Serial card.

Can you use a USB to Serial converter?

drug out the TOUGHBOOK, it has XP and Serial, i have Windas copied over. i have to do a DLL registration and other stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpbveKhYfn4

It would seem it can't connect. maybe i have to switch the RXD and TXD wires? i matched them up RXD to RXD and TXD to TXD.

EDIT: are the lights supposed to be solid or blinking constantly? loose connection?

floppy connector is just not big enough the pins on the P992.

EDIT: well that blows i put a whole new end on there it still doesn't work, best i can do solder directly, maybe the intemrnetent connection fried the RS232 to TTL thing.

EDIT: i even have continuity double check pinout, LEDs on TTL adapter still work, crazy. maybe new connector and old connector are too big.

EDIT: I think i'm gonna have to crack this puppy open again maybe it's solder joints on the monitor. guess i could try check continuity from the TTL to the monitor. unless it's my serial cables but, that wouldn't explain the lack of lights when plugged in to the monitor.

EDIT:
Either i need to invert/switch some pins backwards/around or i need a new adapter.

EDIT:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS232-TTL-UART … =item4855c7a330

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-MAX3232-RS232-Se … =item2c725b8625

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RS232-Serial-Port-To- … =item1c3e5fdee9

second link seems pretty nice. wouldn't mind getting both the first 2 or even all 3 maybe. maybe even another one of what i have. IDK too bad it's not working now.

Yes, you need to connect TXD to RXD and vice versa (crossed over). 😀

133MHz wrote:

Yes, you need to connect TXD to RXD and vice versa (crossed over). 😀

uuuhhh now i'm trouble, according this guide and the youtube video,

http://www.myblog.bloggybloggy.com/hacking-mo … ens-26-09-2007/

i should be seeing the options on the left side which i'm not, and G@ which i'm not seeing either.

cdoublejj wrote:

1 Day i will hit it with a real deal air compressor.

Don't do this--regular, compressed air can create static amidst the components and ruin something. Get several cans of canned air, which is not regular oxygen.

Logistics wrote:

cdoublejj wrote:

1 Day i will hit it with a real deal air compressor.

Don't do this--regular, compressed air can create static amidst the components and ruin something. Get several cans of canned air, which is not regular oxygen.

What difference would it make? Wouldn't any gas blowing create a static hazard.

A CRT display already generates some nice electrostatic fields during power on/power off as a byproduct of the high voltages needed for its operation, so its circuitry is designed to endure such conditions. Most of the display circuitry consists of high power output stages which are inherently robust, the microprocessor controlled stuff could be more sensitive, but the only time I've seen them fail is when the CRT socket develops internal corrosion or the high voltage leaks due to moisture or punctured insulation - the resulting arcs and flashovers can produce enough RF energy to mess up the contents of the EEPROM or make the MCU lose its marbles once in a while.

I've had TVs that produce so much static I get quite a charge just by standing near them, enough to generate visible (and painful) sparks when I put my finger close to system ground such as the antenna or video connections, so I believe some compressed air isn't going to hurt anything. Besides, high quality monitors have lots of metal shielding everywhere which should dissipate any static buildup very quickly.

over blown out electronics with the compressor for years and years i think even 1 crt once before never had any problems. i doubt i'll ever clean it if i can't fix the brightness issue. Most trintrons are supposed to show a G2 in the register/registry. I'm going to try googling again.

EDIT: still reading but, some nice info, http://icrontic.com/discussion/comment/597262 … #Comment_597262

HMM: http://icrontic.com/discussion/comment/658516 … #Comment_658516

EDIT: So far NOBODY in this thread has done a windas fix on the P992, only the resistor fix, and they have all used different valued resistors.

EDIT: still reading thread but, instead of going the Windas rout as far as reading the dat file i might just do it purely through CMD like in this video,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpbveKhYfn4

Logistics wrote:

cdoublejj wrote:

1 Day i will hit it with a real deal air compressor.

Don't do this--regular, compressed air can create static amidst the components and ruin something. Get several cans of canned air, which is not regular oxygen.

Urban legend IMHO, please provide evidence. 😀

- Stiletto

Well, quite honestly, I can't. I read this could happen in the 90's, and have avoided doing it since. It just made sense to me because on windy days, I could zap the CRT monitors on the work-bench(or they zap me) with my finger.

cdoublejj wrote:

EDIT: So far NOBODY in this thread has done a windas fix on the P992, only the resistor fix, and they have all used different valued resistors.

I have, but it was so long ago I don't have the hardware or remember the details anymore, sorry. 🙁

WinDAS is a bit quirky to set up, mostly because of some file dependencies that you need to register first, but I've found it quite viable for fixing the G2 voltage on the FD Trinitron monitors I had, as well as tweaking grid-based convergence on the FW900.

Speaking of which, I'm dropping by here because my FW900 died recently. The color flashing and blooming during initial warm-up just kept getting worse and worse every time I cold-started it until something eventually crackled and popped pretty fierce, like the flyback finally gave up the ghost if I had to guess.

It's a shame, since I really liked having the best gaming monitor in existence. This one even looked near-mint and had spot-on color balance, unlike the Dell P1110 and Sun GDM-5410 it had replaced.

I've moved the GDM-5410 off my retrogaming system and back onto my primary desktop in the meantime, but I do NOT want to consign that FW900 to a landfill. I'm confident it's the sort of failure that can be reasonably fixed by anyone confident enough in working with high-voltage circuitry, since the monitor still technically turns on.

The challenge is finding one who actually lives in this state (Georgia) and not all the way over on the West Coast...

Stiletto wrote:

Logistics wrote:

cdoublejj wrote:

1 Day i will hit it with a real deal air compressor.

Don't do this--regular, compressed air can create static amidst the components and ruin something. Get several cans of canned air, which is not regular oxygen.

Urban legend IMHO, please provide evidence. 😀

- Stiletto

Where I work we have a special compressed air system for paint booths and they require really pure air for the paint guns to not contaminate the surfaces. There is two compressors it all runs to and really filters things out. Maybe if you have access to that your chances of hurting it could be low.

The main thing I would be more concerned about is the moisture from the air compressors and not the static hazard.

Maraakate wrote:

Stiletto wrote:

Logistics wrote:

Don't do this--regular, compressed air can create static amidst the components and ruin something. Get several cans of canned air, which is not regular oxygen.

Urban legend IMHO, please provide evidence. 😀

- Stiletto

Where I work we have a special compressed air system for paint booths and they require really pure air for the paint guns to not contaminate the surfaces. There is two compressors it all runs to and really filters things out. Maybe if you have access to that your chances of hurting it could be low.

The main thing I would be more concerned about is the moisture from the air compressors and not the static hazard.

Now THAT I can agree with. I worked in a metalworking/electrical shop years ago and they had direct compressed air lines run through the factory, but I couldn't use them to dust out PC systems because the lines weren't completely clean and occasionally you could get a shot of some grease sprayed out with the compressed air. But I've never had such problems using an air compressor such as you might acquire at a Lowe's/Home Depot or other sort of store.

Stiletto wrote:

Now THAT I can agree with. I worked in a metalworking/electrical shop years ago and they had direct compressed air lines run through the factory, but I couldn't use them to dust out PC systems because the lines weren't completely clean and occasionally you could get a shot of some grease sprayed out with the compressed air. But I've never had such problems using an air compressor such as you might acquire at a Lowe's/Home Depot or other sort of store.

The shot of grease may be the air tool oil. Some shops have the oil mixing in with the air because quite frankly a lot of people can't be bothered to add the two drops a day to their tools. However, this is kind of rare, at least in the auto body industry, because the oil cannot mix in with the paint guns.

I also forgot to mention these compressed air lines for the paint booths don't seem to generate any extra static. You're talking about paint raw plastic bumpers where dust will completely attract right to it. On the other hand, they're controlled environments with special down drafts, or cross drafts, etc. and newer booths even have stuff to control the temperature and humidity. It's really important with spraying water bourne paint (which is what we are using). This also reminds me that I have indeed sprayed out a few cases in these booths and the air gun spits out almost 80 psi and I never had a problem.

WinDas does not properly view the ROM/BIOS. I wonder if i can do a resistor mod with a POT?

You'd need a fairly high resistance potentiometer, and very well insulated to boot. G2 voltage isn't super high like 2nd anode or focus, but still high enough to make your life difficult (up to a thousand volts or so). If you could get an old focus/screen divider network from an old large screen TV (back when they were a separate unit and not a part of the flyback transformer) you might be able to use it for such a purpose.