The chinese desoldering gun sounds like magically easy way to remove caps.
Is it for amateur use ? Cost is 100-150usd$.
- S-998P ( One pump version )
- S-993A ( Double pump version )
I think they have separate 110V and 230V versions for USA and EU mains.
Also need a about +0.6mm hole diameter tip for cap legs.

I'm not going to buy the HAKKO FR-300(Seems the ultimate remover) price 300-400usd$. 😀

*Added youtube link= https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La3p7TrTMZk

I don't know which one you mean, if you're not buying something built to last you may as well really save some money and spend $10 https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01849/desol … cker/dp/SD01702 although the hole is large and the power is high so you'd need to be careful... Or just buy a regular pump for even less.

A pump is not needed to desolder through hole electrolytic caps. An inexpensive 40W soldering iron will do. If the tip isn't easily removable and thick too much, just rasp it. Although it's better to buy an iron with a ceramic heating element rather than nickel chromium wired.

The Panasonic FR capacitors arrived.
- They are rated +105 °C.
- How long can I keep hot soldering iron touching cap's leg without overheating ?
- With what temperature *C to solder and what Wattage ?

Is it useful to tape motherboard's tracks with lots of Chinese Kapton-tape or similar ?
- Hand probably shakes and tracks are like worst 1mm away from cap's leg.

Where to cut legs see photo ?

user33331 wrote:

The Panasonic FR capacitors arrived. - They are rated +105 °C. - How long can I keep hot soldering iron touching cap's leg with […]
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The Panasonic FR capacitors arrived.
- They are rated +105 °C.
- How long can I keep hot soldering iron touching cap's leg without overheating ?
- With what temperature *C to solder and what Wattage ?

Is it useful to tape motherboard's tracks with lots of Chinese Kapton-tape or similar ?
- Hand probably shakes and tracks are like worst 1mm away from cap's leg.

You shouldn't worry too much about cooking the capacitor. It is possible, but difficult due to the capacitors large size and the fact that your motherboard will be taking a lot of heat away, it is quite difficult.

Depending on the wattage of your solder station, you will probably want to set a temperature of 300C or so. That would be ideal. However, unless your iron is very good and you have a good bit that transfers heat efficiently, you may need it a fair bit higher to work effectively on the thick multi-layer boards. I have to set mine to 400C on a 60W solder station, and I still wish I had more power for these things. I am strongly considering getting a better station that has the heater built into the tips, as i have heard these work better than traditional stations on difficult jobs.

Don't worry about the kapton tape, it is only something you would need if you are using hot air around components you don't want melted. Soldering irons typically don't need it. You won't be trashing any of the tracks near the solder points as they will be covered in thick solder mask that is largely unharmed by soldering.

I'll also be honest, I've never seen Panasonic FR capacitors come with legs pre-bent like that. they normally are straight. It makes me suspicious of the source of those capacitors. In any case, you can trim where you indicated to make it easier to insert into the board.

Here is the seller: ( I'll send later more photos if counterfeit. )
EBAY= dmcomponents2011 ( D&M COMPONENTS ) UK England: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/dmcomponents2011?_tr … =p2047675.l2559
"Panasonic low esr"
*1000uF 10V FR ( EEU-FR1A102L )
*1500uF 6.3V FR ( EEU-FR0J152L )
Thanks I must be sure that they are legitimate and not fake. I'll open paypal case if needed.
Can someone send a photo of genuine similar value FR caps ?
How to prove that they are fake other than weirdly bent legs ?

Is the best affordable soldering station still Hakko FX888 for motherboard work ?
- 65W
- 50 to 480ºC

I would heavily assume those caps are fake, here's the datasheet
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-dat … BA0000C1022.pdf
Caps are purchased with specific leg widths in mind so they don't get changed without naming it differently.
Fakes appear commonly on Amazon too which is why I only buy from electronics specialists.

It's long and boring but that video I linked previously answers your questions on solder technique.

Here's a photo of three types of FR capacitors. Does the text size look wrong on what you received?

EDIT: It does look like some FR caps have legs like that
https://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1c102lb … v-20/dp/1800638

I'm sad the seller got all defensive and asked aggressively to open a case 😢
Guess I received counterfeits. Ruined my day.
Looks like my motherboard fixing is kind of pointless when I can't even find genuine caps.
Oh well I'll stay positive and fix this in future.
Now I feel pretty down.

user33331 wrote:

I'm sad the seller got all defensive and asked aggressively to open a case :depressed: Why UK sellers are like this ? :depress […]
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I'm sad the seller got all defensive and asked aggressively to open a case 😢
Why UK sellers are like this ? 😢 Ruined my day.
Looks like my motherboard fixing is kind of pointless when I can't even find genuine caps.
Oh well I'll stay positive and fix this in future.
Now I feel pretty down.

They might turn out to be Panasonic caps, but a different model but I say this only because I can't be 100% as I'm not a capacitor forensic expert. I would hope the seller's explanation was at least to tell you what model number you did receive if it's a substitute.

Ebay is the wild west, Amazon is going this way too. Many sellers say they're UK based but they're Chinese operations selling fakes, opening new accounts and moving to new rented UK address every few months and pay no tax. Sometimes you get genuine people, sometimes you get bullshit. Sometimes the seller isn't acting dishonestly and suddenly gets their supply chain (and reputation) ruined. It's a crapshoot. I recommended CPC for a reason, I would assume there are places like this you can trust across the EU.

Again, no expert (someone, please haul me up if I'm talking trash) but if I'm reading the Panasonic 2019 catalogue correctly these could still be genuine. Based on the OPs quoted part nos (which I assume came from the seller) these have formed rather than straight leads, with a 3.5mm spacing at the body splayed out to a final spacing of 5mm.

Genuine Panasonic electrolytic caps have special T pressed vents. You can also see their old logo: M in a square with rounded corners. Panasonic was a brand of Matsushita until they changed the name to Panasonic in 2008. They deprecated the M logo after that.

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote:

Again, no expert (someone, please haul me up if I'm talking trash) but if I'm reading the Panasonic 2019 catalogue correctly these could still be genuine. Based on the OPs quoted part nos (which I assume came from the seller) these have formed rather than straight leads, with a 3.5mm spacing at the body splayed out to a final spacing of 5mm.

I think you might be on to something. This is the specific page for the EEUFR1A102L
https://industrial.panasonic.com/ww/products/ … /fr/EEUFR1A102L

This is the datasheet the page links to
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-dat … BA0000C1259.pdf

This is the catalog the page refers to where on page 9 and 10 you will see a table where a body width of 8mm and height of 15mm takes you to diagram E
https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-dat … MF0000COL94.pdf

Doesn't make them genuine but Panasonic do offer this odd configuration, normally if you have that leg width you have room for a larger body. I guess you weren't looking for something specific when purchasing as there's a higher rated option with the same leg width and height.

I don't know we have now measured them with multimeter and measures were ok. Might as well try these "FR".
- 1500uf was 1600uf.
- 1000uf was 1100uf.
Board's cap specs.below and the board's 5 pcs caps are protruding.
These companies don't ship to private customers: Digi-Key, Farnell, Mouser,...
Tried to order but they called that not possible if *company field* is left empty.
- I bought some cheap LUX-Tools solder irons(30W and 60W) that came with D1.0mm Pb60 Sn40 solder(Pb=60% solder).
- Previously have some Stannol(15W and 30W) irons.
I added multiple Kapton-tape for protection to surrounding PCB-tracks. I'll try the removing when I have trained enough and I'm ready. 😵

user33331 wrote:

These companies don't ship to private customers: Digi-Key, Farnell, Mouser,...
Tried to order but they called that not possible if *company field* is left empty.

Don't know about Farnell, but I have bought plenty of stuff from Digi-Key and Mouser as a private customer. You can always make up a fake company name if they require it... once, Digi-Key sent me a mail to inquire about the purpose of the stuff I had ordered, I guess they wanted to know that I wasn't importing components from the US in order to build a nuclear device or something. It seems these companies have to comply with certain government regulations and sometimes you have to play along with that.

In any case, I got Panasonic FRs with bent legs a few times from Digi-Key, so maybe yours are not counterfeit.

You will probably find that removing the old capacitors is actually quite easy, just heat up one lead and rock the capacitor to one side, switch to the other lead and do the same. Keep going until it's out, make sure not to keep your iron more than 2 or 3 seconds on each lead to avoid ripping the pad. Though on a motherboard they can generally take quite a bit of heat.

The difficult part however, is clearing the holes after you have removed the cap, that is what you should practice the most if you don't have a desoldering gun because it's where disaster is most likely to occur. Some people use braid (it can take several passes), others heat up a stainless steel needle as they jam it through the hole, and so on. Practice a bit and see what works best for you.

After you have cleared the holes, soldering the new caps should be a breeze. Just make sure you feed the solder through the hole so that it makes it to the other side of the board for a strong connection.

I tried to remove 1pc capacitor with 15,30 and even 60W. 😵
I could not even melt the solder on cap's leg. ( Though the Pb60 Sn40 solder happily melted when presoldering the tips. 😊 )
The leg's solder stayed there and nothing happened.

Maybe I start saving for a desoldering gun China S-998 and similar.

*Edit
How about I cut off old capacitor's head with Dremel and leave it's legs then solder a new cap to the old's extruding legs ?
See photo. Could this work ?

user33331 wrote:

I tried to remove 1pc capacitor with 15,30 and even 60W. :dead: I could not even melt the solder on cap's leg. ( Though the Pb6 […]
Show full quote

I tried to remove 1pc capacitor with 15,30 and even 60W. 😵
I could not even melt the solder on cap's leg. ( Though the Pb60 Sn40 solder happily melted when presoldering the tips. 😊 )
The leg's solder stayed there and nothing happened.

Maybe I start saving for a desoldering gun China S-998 and similar.

*Edit
How about I cut off old capacitor's head with Dremel and leave it's legs then solder a new cap to the old's extruding legs ?
See photo. Could this work ?

Just add a little new solder and use that to bridge the heat, makes a big difference. Flux helps too.