This one doesn´t seem to be in any buck- / stepdown circuit (no inductor present). It´s probably some linear regulator for a 1.xy V chipset voltage. This means the chips will not be under deadly stress by RF-AC when this electrolytic deteriorates / looses capacity, but instabilities will probably occur in situations of high power demand.
If you value this mainboard and want tu use it - replace this cap.

majestyk wrote on 2024-04-26, 06:55:

This one doesn´t seem to be in any buck- / stepdown circuit (no inductor present). It´s probably some linear regulator for a 1.xy V chipset voltage. This means the chips will not be under deadly stress by RF-AC when this electrolytic deteriorates / looses capacity, but instabilities will probably occur in situations of high power demand.
If you value this mainboard and want tu use it - replace this cap.

Ive not any caps to replace using with this causes any problem

Btw cant install windows 98 se on this mobo is it related to this cap??

Hard to tell. What error do you get?

In general the capacitors are there for a reason and when one is bad (or even more of them) you're are expected to have issues. Often parts of same type fail simultaneously, and not always with visible signs.

technokater wrote on 2024-04-26, 10:30:

Hard to tell. What error do you get?

After using original win98se and floppy boot disk it runs 😀 i think my win98 cdrw's are bad

Can be sure, especially if it's older disc. I had a couple of CD-Rs that became kinda transparent and unreadable after ~ 5 years.

Failing caps should be replaced, especially if they start leaking. The electrolyte is corrosive and might damage traces or other components.

rain wrote on 2024-04-26, 06:58:

majestyk wrote on 2024-04-26, 06:55:

This one doesn´t seem to be in any buck- / stepdown circuit (no inductor present). It´s probably some linear regulator for a 1.xy V chipset voltage. This means the chips will not be under deadly stress by RF-AC when this electrolytic deteriorates / looses capacity, but instabilities will probably occur in situations of high power demand.
If you value this mainboard and want tu use it - replace this cap.

Ive not any caps to replace using with this causes any problem

Should be easy enough to order a replacement. The values should be printed on the side. If the voltage rating for it is very close to what you suspect the circuit calls for (for example, 16v cap for 12v line) then you can safely go up a step, say in my example I would go up to 25v for more headroom.

If yours is for a 1.x volt line like others said then it might be very low voltage cap like 6v or something.

You will save time and future headaches if you replace all of the caps with this same brand/voltage/capacitance rather than just the one. For example, I have a PCChips board where I tested it to POST, then ordered replacement caps for the failing ones. By the time I got them and pulled the board for the job, a cap of a different brand/voltage/capacitance had developed a bulge. I replaced the caps I had already ordered, and replaced the one that was different with one I had on hand. Not long after, I realized that all of those also needed to be replaced as others began obviously failing.

Realistically, you'll probably never use that board for an extended period of time so replacing the cap is pointless (especially all of them), it will probably end up in the trash anyway.
From a retro point of view there is no reason to leave it like that because it could cause all kind of weird stability issues that will ruin your day.
It's up to you.

Replace it. No brainer

Replace it. It's good soldering practice.

Mandrew wrote on 2024-04-26, 18:28:

Realistically, you'll probably never use that board for an extended period of time so replacing the cap is pointless (especially all of them), it will probably end up in the trash anyway.

Not sure how you determined that.
I've saved numerous Pentium 3 and 4 motherboards back in the late 2000's though 2015 when they were deemed eWaste (back before retro PCs were even a thing). I've used a few for junky builds to mess around with... some of which I still use for that same purpose. Funny thing is, a good deal of these are now worth much more than they were back then. But regardless of that, good working hardware is good working hardware. So the OP recapping his board isn't necessarily a waste of time. If he's going to use the board even occasionally and doesn't want to deal with constant headaches due to "random" system bugs (which will probably start to happen sooner than later with the state of the caps), might as well take the time now while the board is working and give it a proper recap.

On that note, don't replace just that one cap - replace all from the same brand and model. They all likely came from the same batch, so if one is bad, the others are not far behind (and sometimes even just as bad, but not showing it / not bulging yet.)
Now, if you're new to soldering and you're worried about doing this, I understand. In regards to that, start with the bulging cap and any of the other caps NOT close to the CPU to get some soldering practice (or ideally, get a known broken board and practice soldering on that.) The reason to stay away from the caps close to the CPU is because those usually require a bit more skill (and a powerfull / hot enough soldering iron) to get them out. In contrast, the caps scattered elsewhere on the board are not connected to very thick traces and usually are easier to replace.

As for replacement caps... we'll get to that part if you actually get determined to do it. 😉

Nah, replacing caps on cheap mediocre boards isn't worth it in any universe. Just buy a working one for $5 and be done with it. 478 is basically trash no matter how we look at it.

?? Lol wut?

Mandrew wrote on 2024-04-30, 19:58:

Nah, replacing caps on cheap mediocre boards isn't worth it in any universe. Just buy a working one for $5 and be done with it. 478 is basically trash no matter how we look at it.

Business-wise, I agree.
But as a hobby, I disagree. Just comes down to what one likes to do with their free time.
Saying it's "not worth it" is subjective, and can technically be extended about anything we do that isn't a necessary life need.

momaka wrote on 2024-05-01, 12:16:

Business-wise, I agree. But as a hobby, I disagree. Just comes down to what one likes to do with their free time. Saying it's "n […]
Show full quote

Mandrew wrote on 2024-04-30, 19:58:

Nah, replacing caps on cheap mediocre boards isn't worth it in any universe. Just buy a working one for $5 and be done with it. 478 is basically trash no matter how we look at it.

Business-wise, I agree.
But as a hobby, I disagree. Just comes down to what one likes to do with their free time.
Saying it's "not worth it" is subjective, and can technically be extended about anything we do that isn't a necessary life need.

And if you should ever want to recap a valuable board some day, you will have wished that you built up your skills on those 478 boards that needed your attention.

Honestly I wouldn't brush off recapping any kind of board as "not worth it". I've had people actually pay MORE for a recapped mediocre board (ECS KT600-A) than a vanilla one.

PcBytes wrote on 2024-05-02, 00:01:

Honestly I wouldn't brush off recapping any kind of board as "not worth it". I've had people actually pay MORE for a recapped mediocre board (ECS KT600-A) than a vanilla one.

I've played many hours of games on my Amptron M930LR, and I even just ordered a 3.06 GHz CPU for it to max it out so it was time and money well spent to replace the caps on it IMO. And there is the enjoyment of fixing something just to fix it.