VOGONS


Bought these (retro) hardware today

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Reply 10340 of 52692, by Tetrium

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havli wrote:
Voodoo3 2000 PCI SGR, white heatsink model http://abload.de/img/v3_2q4s9m.jpg […]
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Voodoo3 2000 PCI SGR, white heatsink model
v3_2q4s9m.jpg

Is there actually any performance difference between V3 with SGRAM and SDRAM?
If not, I'd still prefer the looks of the SGRAM models though 😀

sf78 wrote:

Local listing again. 10€ + shipping.

Nice! Did you get it with the original box also?
Dunno anymore how good rev 1.2 is btw

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Reply 10341 of 52692, by havli

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Yes, SGRAM variant is slightly faster. On average SGR is faster by 1-5%. The greatest difference is probably in Dungeon Siege at 1600x1200 - V3 2000 PCI SDR = 28,1 fps and V3 2000 PCI SGR scores 32,4 fps, which is 15% faster. Dungeon Siege performance greatly depends on VRAM bandwidth, so I think it is the best case scenario for this comparison. Of course some other games don't benefit from SGR at all (Q3A for example).

http://hw-museum.cz/benchmark-2-12.php

HW museum.cz - my collection of PC hardware

Reply 10342 of 52692, by retrofanatic

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Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:
retrofanatic wrote:

it's been a while since I tried but it involved using various scan converters and rgb to hdmi converter boxes. I can't exactly remember what I did but I can tell you it's possible but not without some decent quality conversion setup. I have also been successful in displaying tandy and amiga 500 rgb video to an old sony crt via rgb to component conversion again with extron products. It wasn't perfect for video quality when in the menu system or in dos but when you start up a game the graphics look really nice on a crt. I have many more experiments to try to get good results but it will take me some time. I have a stack of extron gear that I have been getting from a local recycler for a good price that usually do the trick if used in the right combination with the right cables. The great thing about most of the extron stuff is that there is virtually zero lag as well.

If I somehow managed to finish my personal game theater, I'd really be interested to connect various retro hardware --like Atari Console-- to modern computer screen and A/V receiver, so I'd be interested to hear more details. 😀

I have been planning something similar for a long time now for my game room but I just don't have the time to get to it. Photos of my game room as it stands now can be found in this topic:
Re: post up pics of your "computing area"

If I ever get the time and get working on it, I was planning to post my findings and progress in a separate topic. Hopefully it will be in the next two or three months. Here's a couple photos of some of my Extron hardware that I plan to use. Essentially I will be converting RGB Analog and RGBI signals to component for many of my old computer systems (Atari ST, Amiga 500, other commodore, Tandy 1000's, and Tandy Coco3) to use on my Sony CRT's and I will be hooking up composite and s-video game consoles directly through an Extron Crosspoint switcher (virtually zero lag and no quality loss). As for RF systems, I plan to also connect them directly to the CRT TV's. I will also connect a small mini tower Sony VAIO via component out to my CRT for MAME and emulation gaming.

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Anyways, to stay on topic, I just picked up the following Micro ATX P/S:

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It will replace a cheap 200W P/S I have in a small HTPC case I am planning on using in the living room for MAME/emulation and Movie watching on my 40" 1080p Sony LCD.

Reply 10343 of 52692, by kithylin

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retrofanatic wrote:
<snip> Anyways, to stay on topic, I just picked up the following Micro ATX P/S: […]
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<snip>
Anyways, to stay on topic, I just picked up the following Micro ATX P/S:

20160119_205656.jpg

It will replace a cheap 200W P/S I have in a small HTPC case I am planning on using in the living room for MAME/emulation and Movie watching on my 40" 1080p Sony LCD.

Not that it will be a whole lot better.. Diablotek are pretty much the bottom of the barrel in terms of power supplies. They're only good for roughly 75% of their rated capacity (Diablotek) and are just barely a step above the generic no-brand chinese ones.

None of the Diablotek power supplies were ever 80+ at all. And the only one that was tested by jonnygury.com, the 1050 watt one, failed miserably and couldn't even deliver close to it's rated spec.

They're "Okay", I just would never use one in any system that actually has high load demands. Personally I would never touch one at all myself if I was ever spending money.

Last edited by kithylin on 2016-01-20, 05:05. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 10344 of 52692, by luckybob

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I used a no-name brand PSU once. Back in the P4 era. I was doing maybe 350W on a "500w" unit. Long story short, it died like a week after I installed it and it killed my brand new Asus P4C800-e dlx, 3 hard drives and 2 memory sticks.

Ever since then, it's been top-tier or nothing.

It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.

Reply 10345 of 52692, by kithylin

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To give y'all an idea of Diablotek's quality, take a read on the only unit they sent to jonnyguru's test site:http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDR … =print&reid=187

Reply 10346 of 52692, by retrofanatic

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I agree with using a much better P/S for my larger systems (I have never used a diablotek P/S and I don't think I ever will for my full size ATX systems) but again the system I mentioned that I am using this one in takes a Micro ATX P/S, so compared to the 200W cheapie I have in there this Diablotek unit is better, despite being a diablotek.

It is a 380W P/S and it says on the label that it is rated at 80% efficiency, which even if that is half true 🤣, I'm sure it is a bit better than the original 200W one I have in there. The 200W one tends to overheat as well anyways, which was my problem with it in the first place...so I hope this replacement alleviates this.

Load demands are low for my system that I will be using it in and again I was talking about Micro ATX. I only paid $3 for this one, so if it overheats as well and doesn't perform well, not all is lost.

That said, diablotek P/S do suck for sure. For my full size ATX systems, I typically use Enermax P/S in my older builds and in my i7 and Core 2 Duo builds which constitute my newest computers I own, I have 700W plus Antec or Silverstone units that have performed pretty good so far.

Reply 10347 of 52692, by luckybob

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The only thing those diablotek power supplies are good for is as a flail. Even then it will break 2-3 whacks in.

It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.

Reply 10348 of 52692, by kithylin

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retrofanatic wrote:
I agree with using a much better P/S for my larger systems (I have never used a diablotek P/S and I don't think I ever will for […]
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I agree with using a much better P/S for my larger systems (I have never used a diablotek P/S and I don't think I ever will for my full size ATX systems) but again the system I mentioned that I am using this one in takes a Micro ATX P/S, so compared to the 200W cheapie I have in there this Diablotek unit is better, despite being a diablotek.

It is a 380W P/S and it says on the label that it is rated at 80% efficiency, which even if that is half true 🤣, I'm sure it is a bit better than the original 200W one I have in there. The 200W one tends to overheat as well anyways, which was my problem with it in the first place...so I hope this replacement alleviates this.

Load demands are low for my system that I will be using it in and again I was talking about Micro ATX. I only paid $3 for this one, so if it overheats as well and doesn't perform well, not all is lost.

That said, diablotek P/S do suck for sure. For my full size ATX systems, I typically use Enermax P/S in my older builds and in my i7 and Core 2 Duo builds which constitute my newest computers I own, I have 700W plus Antec or Silverstone units that have performed pretty good so far.

I understand all of that, and it sounds fine, for what you use it for. I just thought I might mention how terrible they are so you know not to load it to it's max on the label.

In the world of crappy power supplies, I have a CoolMax over here I actually powered a GTX-260 and +80% overclocked 775 system on for a few months. Which was.... even scarier. It worked but it was making this loudish buzzing noise that sounded like a pissed off bee trapped in a can, and it was dumping out more heat out the back of it than the GTX-260 was. It worked though... still works, I have it in one of my other machines here, and I got it new for $20. No idea who really makes it. Sometimes some of them actually work. Probably not well, but does work.

Also I went looking and now, it seems Diablotek is (finally) out of the power supply business. No models are being sold on newegg, and almost all models are gone from their website, except for some really low-end ones.

Reply 10349 of 52692, by Lukeno94

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luckybob wrote:

I used a no-name brand PSU once. Back in the P4 era. I was doing maybe 350W on a "500w" unit. Long story short, it died like a week after I installed it and it killed my brand new Asus P4C800-e dlx, 3 hard drives and 2 memory sticks.

Ever since then, it's been top-tier or nothing.

I had a 450W "CIT" thing, which was at least able to deliver 300+W (never stressed it further)... but I'm pretty sure it led to the deaths of two (admittedly already fairly old and well-worn) motherboards and damaged another one. Never again. I was younger and didn't know any better.

For goodness sake, if you value your hardware, do NOT use cheap power supplies. Let's forget the power rating for a second; they are often barely in spec at the best of times, and often have no functional protection for if something goes wrong.

Reply 10350 of 52692, by kithylin

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Lukeno94 wrote:
luckybob wrote:

I used a no-name brand PSU once. Back in the P4 era. I was doing maybe 350W on a "500w" unit. Long story short, it died like a week after I installed it and it killed my brand new Asus P4C800-e dlx, 3 hard drives and 2 memory sticks.

Ever since then, it's been top-tier or nothing.

I had a 450W "CIT" thing, which was at least able to deliver 300+W (never stressed it further)... but I'm pretty sure it led to the deaths of two (admittedly already fairly old and well-worn) motherboards and damaged another one. Never again. I was younger and didn't know any better.

For goodness sake, if you value your hardware, do NOT use cheap power supplies. Let's forget the power rating for a second; they are often barely in spec at the best of times, and often have no functional protection for if something goes wrong.

I don't use this coolmax one much at all.. once every so often for about an hour or two at a time and plan to replace it later.

But yeah.. that Diablotek 1050 watt one jonnyguru tested, wasn't even UL tested/certified. This coolmax one I have isn't either.

Reply 10351 of 52692, by kixs

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Bought this mobo:

CQ8DatTm.jpg

Does anyone recognizes it for manual or jumper settings?

I also have one other that looks almost exactly the same, but has also 386DX soldered on and crystal clock generator. Will upload picture later. There are some jumpers but would like to install 486DLC in it and disable onboard cpu. Don't know if just inserting DLC would work?! I tried it with one 486DLC-40 but didn't do anything... I tested the CPU on another board and it looks it's dead. But I don't know if I ever tested it. Now I don't want to try with another working DLC as it might kill it 😕

Of course I'm more interested in jumper settings in this second board. Otherwise performance wise they are the same. But as crystal oscillator is socketed, I could swap it with slower one if desired. The DLC board has only 33/40MHz option.

---

I played around with both last night and was quite surprised what BIOS settings are available. This DLC board came with newest BIOS 11-1993. But there are almost no advanced settings available and it runs quite slow for a DLC. That's why I investigated into BIOS versions and swapped it with 04-1993 that was on the 386DX board. This was better. More settings and speed increased. I then looked in my BIOS/CPU box where there was one more AMI 386DX BIOS from a non-working board that I dismantled. BIOS date wasn't promising as it was the oldest 11-1992. But to my surprise it has the most advanced settings 😀

Some benchamrks (results are from memory but should be correct):

3DBench 1.0c
386DX-40... 17.6
486DLC-40... 25.8

Doom:
486DLC-40... 6170

BIOS settings are the most aggressive and ISA divider is 1/2. HDD transfer is at 3500KB/s. With this settings it's on par with "my fastest" 486DLC-40 on VLB board with Tseng ET4000/w32i 😲

Requests are also possible... /msg kixs

Reply 10352 of 52692, by Tetrium

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kixs wrote:
Bought this mobo: […]
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Bought this mobo:

CQ8DatTm.jpg

Does anyone recognizes it for manual or jumper settings?

Doesn't it have a model number? No BIOS string? Nothing silkscreened?
Often the model number betrays the manufacturer, which may help you to eventually find it's jumper settings. Many boards of that age had different model numbers, even though it was basically just a (close) clone of another board which jumper settings are easier to find.

I don't recognize this one though

Whats missing in your collections?
My retro rigs (old topic)
Interesting Vogons threads (links to Vogonswiki)
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Reply 10354 of 52692, by ramiro77

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I bought the past weekend this items from the same vendor:

- Voodoo 1 broken (gift)
- Voodoo 2 broken (gift)
- 6.4gb Seagate Medialist (gift)
- AT psu working (gift)
- 1x Pentium 100, 1x Pentium 200 mmx ceramic, 2x Pentium 233 mmx black, 1x IBM Cyrix PR233, 1x Celeron 400mhz s370, 1x AMD K6-2 450adk, 1x AMD K6-2 500afx
- Two Supertalent 512mb ddr2 sticks (gift)
- A bunch of simm edo 4/8mb sticks

And more coming on next weekend!

2411og2.jpg

25p3e5s.jpg

Reply 10355 of 52692, by rein_ein

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Today i got... honestly can't call it retro - Asrock 939A790GMH
Just for 7.5$ but it was pretty dusty and comes w/o backplane.
Posts and boots fine,gonna test stability later.
AMD 790GX chipset based,imo superior find for 939 platform.
s1kefCJl.jpg
If someone curious what i gonna do with it there is little spoiler:
3nlHfEfl.jpg

3x5uzq-5.png
4sv43l-5.png

Reply 10356 of 52692, by Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman

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retrofanatic wrote:
I have been planning something similar for a long time now for my game room but I just don't have the time to get to it. Photos […]
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Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:
retrofanatic wrote:

it's been a while since I tried but it involved using various scan converters and rgb to hdmi converter boxes. I can't exactly remember what I did but I can tell you it's possible but not without some decent quality conversion setup. I have also been successful in displaying tandy and amiga 500 rgb video to an old sony crt via rgb to component conversion again with extron products. It wasn't perfect for video quality when in the menu system or in dos but when you start up a game the graphics look really nice on a crt. I have many more experiments to try to get good results but it will take me some time. I have a stack of extron gear that I have been getting from a local recycler for a good price that usually do the trick if used in the right combination with the right cables. The great thing about most of the extron stuff is that there is virtually zero lag as well.

If I somehow managed to finish my personal game theater, I'd really be interested to connect various retro hardware --like Atari Console-- to modern computer screen and A/V receiver, so I'd be interested to hear more details. 😀

I have been planning something similar for a long time now for my game room but I just don't have the time to get to it. Photos of my game room as it stands now can be found in this topic:
Re: post up pics of your "computing area"

If I ever get the time and get working on it, I was planning to post my findings and progress in a separate topic. Hopefully it will be in the next two or three months. Here's a couple photos of some of my Extron hardware that I plan to use. Essentially I will be converting RGB Analog and RGBI signals to component for many of my old computer systems (Atari ST, Amiga 500, other commodore, Tandy 1000's, and Tandy Coco3) to use on my Sony CRT's and I will be hooking up composite and s-video game consoles directly through an Extron Crosspoint switcher (virtually zero lag and no quality loss). As for RF systems, I plan to also connect them directly to the CRT TV's. I will also connect a small mini tower Sony VAIO via component out to my CRT for MAME and emulation gaming.

20160119_204238.jpg
20160119_201155.jpg

😳 😳 😳 Forget I asked.

Okay, I'll try to read it slower. 😳

Okay, supposed I need to do something similar, but much less exotic. Like, merely displaying exotic SVGA resolution (mostly 640x400) on modern LED screen properly, would I need that many devices?

Never thought this thread would be that long, but now, for something different.....
Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman.

Reply 10357 of 52692, by badmojo

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SquallStrife wrote:

I bought (and probably spent too much on) an IBM PS/2 65sx.

I was watching that auction and give your purchase my official seal of approval. It's a tower of awesome 😎

Life? Don't talk to me about life.

Reply 10358 of 52692, by retrofanatic

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Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

😳 😳 😳 Forget I asked.

Okay, I'll try to read it slower. 😳

Okay, supposed I need to do something similar, but much less exotic. Like, merely displaying exotic SVGA resolution (mostly 640x400) on modern LED screen properly, would I need that many devices?

Lol...sorry for all the info...and, ok I will forget you asked 🤣. I will try to be more succinct next time.

To at least try to answer your question though...I would have to say "not really" to "needing that many devices". You may be able to do it with just one device like the Extron RGB-HDMI 300A unit that works for some resolutions for me, for anything 640x480 and above (I am not sure about 640x400, but I think it might work). It converts 640x480 to 1920x1200 resolutions or 480p, 576p, 720p, 1080i, or 1080p to:

640x4806,8,9, 800x6006,8,9, 852x4806,8,9, 1024x7686,8,9, 1024x8526,8,9, 1024x10246,8,9, 1280x7686,8,9, 1280x8006,8,9, 1280x10246,8,9, 1360x7656,8,9, 1360x7686,8,9, 1365x7686,8,9, 1365x10246,8,9, 1366x7686,8,9, 1440x9006,8,9, 1400x10506,8, 1600x9006,8, 1600x12006,8, 1680x10506,8, 1920x12006,8,
2048x10801,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, 480p7,8, 576p6, 720p3,4,5,6,7,8, 1080p1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, 1080i6,7,8
1 = at 23.98 Hz, 2 = at 24 Hz, 3 = at 25 Hz, 4 = at 29.97 Hz, 5 = at 30 Hz, 6 = at 50 Hz, 7 = at 59.94 Hz, 8 = 60 Hz, 9 = 75 Hz;

Check out the specs on this page:
http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=8504

I have had to use this RGB-HDMI unit in conjunction with another extron upscaler (VSC 300) to get some other resolutions to work (it does 560x384 to 1600x1280 resolutions but outputs to component or RGB, not HDMI, so you will have to connect your VGA from computer to VSC300->RGB-HDMI 300A->LED TV to get an HDMI signal, for example, if your TV doesnt support component inputs) -> http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=vsc300

You really have to look at all the specs to get an idea if it will work for what you want to do, but I would check out the http://shmups.system11.org/ forum as well for information. It's difficult to answer your question with suggesting just one device. Unfortunately it's usually more complicated in most cases, but I think you will find what you need with just a bit of research and eBay searching. Good luck.

Reply 10359 of 52692, by SquallStrife

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badmojo wrote:
SquallStrife wrote:

I bought (and probably spent too much on) an IBM PS/2 65sx.

I was watching that auction and give your purchase my official seal of approval. It's a tower of awesome 😎

Cheers man! 😜

Yeah, it is an awesome looking thing for sure. But now I need to sell some stuff to offset the price, and maybe try to snap up an MCA sound card of some variety.

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