appiah4 wrote:

He probably refers to the potentiometer by pot.

Makes sense 😀 I would be really grateful if someone showed me a photo of the parts of it I need to look at.

Predator99 wrote:

kanecvr wrote:

Go to an auto parts store and buy some battery acid (might be sold as "car battery electrolyte") and some WD40 Contact Cleaner (not the blue can, the silver one). using a toothbrush and the battery acid, scrub the rust and oxide off the card. Don't let the acid stay on the card too long. Put some on, rub with toothbrush and rinse it off using the WD40 contact cleaner.

The battery acid (H2SO4 20% solution) inactivates the rust and the WD40 contact cleaner cleans off what's left, as well as the white acid salt deposits.

If battery electrolyte is not sold in your country get a hold of an old car battery and crack it open 😀 - or see if you can get some vitriol (H2SO4) or nitric acid (HNO3) solution from a pharmacy. Make sure they are diluted (20% for the vitriol, 10% for the nitric acid) or it will start to eat trought the copper. And use gloves.

Thanks for your advice...I think its a good idea to try a stronger acid. I have ordered some chemicals and will report 😉
Maybe it is also possible to dissolve only the solder and not the copper? Removing the corroded solder is really a pain with my cheap soldering iron...

I found you need to remove the corrosion first, otherwise it will be very hard to melt the solder. Alternatively, get some good flux and some solder wick. Put a generous ammount of flux on the corroded area, and then use the solder wick (dipped in flux) and your iron.

Picked up a Tandy 102 from a craigslist seller. Wouldn't turn on, just displayed a black screen/LCD grid if contrast turned all the way up.

Took a gamble and took it home, apparantly there's a "SuperRom" that wasn't installed fully/loose. Reseated it, and it's working like a champ!

Really pleased with this...

kanecvr wrote:

I found you need to remove the corrosion first, otherwise it will be very hard to melt the solder. Alternatively, get some good flux and some solder wick. Put a generous ammount of flux on the corroded area, and then use the solder wick (dipped in flux) and your iron.

Yes, I also made this experience.

Thanks to your advice I included battery acid, THE WD40 contact cleaner and a fiberglass pen in the cleaning procedure and made further progress.

I think it looks quite good compared to the status before 🤣 🤣 🤣

I assume in the current status it should at least be detected - but it isnt 😒 I have no card for comparision but it should be detected as PNP card in the Bios and also by Creatives diagnose.exe utility.

I identified 1 resistor and 2 caps missing (red circles in 1st picture) compared to the reference picture
http://vccollection.ru/wp-content/uploads/201 … 86142031142.jpg

But I dont think these are parts that are preventing the crad from being initialized. I am not sure if replacing all caps will help. It will cost some money and I am in doubt this would fix the card...

Two more cards arrived today. ATI Rage Fury Maxx and 3DFX Voodoo 4500 AGP

Nice, Voodoo4 is my favorite 3dfx card... btw, did anyone notice the typo on reference 3dfx V4 4500 AGP - hint, it is above the GPU? 🤣

Bancho wrote:

Two more cards arrived today. ATI Rage Fury Maxx and 3DFX Voodoo 4500 AGP […]
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Two more cards arrived today. ATI Rage Fury Maxx and 3DFX Voodoo 4500 AGP

I thought there were no universal AGP Voodoo cards?

My understanding was that they were all AGP 2x

TheAbandonwareGuy wrote:

I thought there were no universal AGP Voodoo cards?

My understanding was that they were all AGP 2x

The VSA-100 did support AGP 4x.

🤣 looking at that typo i'd think it's a scam;
why is voodoo 4500 the fav?

jheronimus wrote:

Finally got a Roland MT-32 today! Cost me 160 EUR incl shipping. Came with the power supply and manuals, but no cables. I have the gameport to midi cable, but I'm not sure what kind of audio jacks this thing uses. It's an old model with no headphone output, and it doesn't have 3.5mm holes.

2017-06-29 11.17.49.jpg

Nice!

For cables, it uses standard 1/4 inch (6.35mm) jacks. You should be able to find appropriate cables at music shops, including cables with various adapters depending on what you are connecting to.

Kamerat wrote:

TheAbandonwareGuy wrote:

I thought there were no universal AGP Voodoo cards?

My understanding was that they were all AGP 2x

The VSA-100 did support AGP 4x.

Yep, they even had 4x voodoo5500 prototypes.
Problem was that the cards pulled to much from the slot to run at 1.5v so a 3dfx engineer said F it and made them all agp 2x at 3.3v

mrau wrote:

🤣 looking at that typo i'd think it's a scam;
why is voodoo 4500 the fav?

I just like the design of both V4 AGP and PCI, Powercolor is also nice looking and on top of that the only V4 officially supporting TV-OUT.

Btw - the original 3dfx V4 4500 AGP (showed few posts back) actually supports both AGP 4x transfer mode and 1.5V signalling. The performance gain of AGP 4x is very small, I think 3DMark 01 benefits the most.

Received a Creative voodoo 2 12MB to replace the metabyte 12MB I had in my SLI so now it's not mismatched anymore ! I don't need to disable SLI whenever I want to run a DOS game that uses glide so that's sweet ! and also it brings a few more frames per second for these games ^^

I wish I had found another metabyte though as they seem to be less common and to have some more functionnalities to them (though some of them are just done by drivers)

Those Metabyte boards are my second favourite after Q3D thanks to the awesome software (and cool box artwork - and I've had double luck to have a boxed SLI pair back in 2001 and to find another pair (also boxed) in 2017 despite its relatively steep price).

havli wrote:

Btw - the original 3dfx V4 4500 AGP (showed few posts back) actually supports both AGP 4x transfer mode and 1.5V signalling. The performance gain of AGP 4x is very small, I think 3DMark 01 benefits the most.

Yeah if I recall 4x was mostly not much of a game changer.

Anyway today I got a CT2230 and 450mhz Pii to try out in my slot one 440lx matsonic board with modded bios.
Here's hoping it runs stable at 100fsb.

Pardon the awful cellphone picture - among a few other things I picked up this Socket 3 motherboard today.

Already removed the Barrel battery, but there's two issues so far - it doesn't seem to want to POST and also there is some minor corrosion from the battery. It doesn't appear to have damaged any traces but I'll need to get that neutralized and cleaned soon.

That said, when power is applied the CPU warms up and other things on the board get power (the LED outputs) so I have hope for the board.... I'm just a bit out of my element with pre-Socket 7 boards.

Definitely could use suggestions on cleaning up the corrosion, and on identifying and troubleshooting the board. It seems like a really good late 486 board, with VLB, PCI, external battery connector and support for AMD/Cyrix processors and both 3.3 and 5v processors.

No AGP Voodoo cards besides the 3dfx built-Voodoo 4 4500 AGP and the Voodoo 5 5500 AGP4x edition support 1.5V over the AGP.

VSA100 is using PCI66 technology over the AGP connector. A regular AGP Voodoo runs on PCI66@AGP1x

The Voodoo 4 4500 that Bancho posted is the only production 3dfx card that can run with 1.5v AGP.
But that does not mean the card runs on AGP4x. It will still run at AGP1x, but with 1.5v over the AGP.

Looks good. To finish it off, leave it in a tray of cola for a few hours, then brush off the excess corrosion. I'm working on a SB16 myself (CT2290) - horrible rust on the thing, but came out great. Will have to replace the jacks tough, they are toast - and the I/O cover is rusted trough.

LHN91 wrote:

Pardon the awful cellphone picture - among a few other things I picked up this Socket 3 motherboard today. […]
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Pardon the awful cellphone picture - among a few other things I picked up this Socket 3 motherboard today.

IMG_20170629_200845657.jpg

Already removed the Barrel battery, but there's two issues so far - it doesn't seem to want to POST and also there is some minor corrosion from the battery. It doesn't appear to have damaged any traces but I'll need to get that neutralized and cleaned soon.

That said, when power is applied the CPU warms up and other things on the board get power (the LED outputs) so I have hope for the board.... I'm just a bit out of my element with pre-Socket 7 boards.

Definitely could use suggestions on cleaning up the corrosion, and on identifying and troubleshooting the board. It seems like a really good late 486 board, with VLB, PCI, external battery connector and support for AMD/Cyrix processors and both 3.3 and 5v processors.

Check the memory to see if they match, or replace them with SIMM-72 memory. In most cases, the memory could be mismatched with the SIMM-30 (size and speed must match), or just dusty.

Arctic wrote:

No AGP Voodoo cards besides the 3dfx built-Voodoo 4 4500 AGP and the Voodoo 5 5500 AGP4x edition support 1.5V over the AGP. […]
Show full quote

No AGP Voodoo cards besides the 3dfx built-Voodoo 4 4500 AGP and the Voodoo 5 5500 AGP4x edition support 1.5V over the AGP.

VSA100 is using PCI66 technology over the AGP connector. A regular AGP Voodoo runs on PCI66@AGP1x

The Voodoo 4 4500 that Bancho posted is the only production 3dfx card that can run with 1.5v AGP.
But that does not mean the card runs on AGP4x. It will still run at AGP1x, but with 1.5v over the AGP.

Not quite true. The prototype 5500 can run at 4x but not 1.5v, I had one and know from experience, and the L shape 4500 did 4x at 1.5v if I recall. I could be wrong but the STB 4500s did not do 1.5v either but do indeed run at 4x speeds. I only had one agp 4500 so maybe there not all that way.