If you can't find a working flash utility you'd probably have to hotswap with a known flash chip.

How about I try using Uniflash, or something similar?

Also, on the BIOS flash chip, there is a sticker on it which says -

Phoenix BIOS
D888 BIOS <--the 888 is so difficult to read, some of the 8 digits could either be 6 or B
Phoenix 1998
049970307

One other idea is that I could put in an older CPU, as I don't think the current BIOS properly understands what the T-Bred CPU is.

The thing is, these flash chips have ID bytes that indicate the model and size of the flash chip. Different chip models need different programming algorithms. Now if the BIOS or Flash program wants to change the flash content it looks up this ID and decides which programming algorithm to use. If it doesn't know the chip it can't reprogram it.

So either you find a program that is capable of rewriting it or you replace it. The numbers *under* the sticker are more interesting if you intend to switch the chip.

retro games 100 wrote:

How about I try using Uniflash, or something similar?

Good idea. I've used Uniflash on several occasions and it always worked (even on strange boards).

5u3 wrote:

Some of them were equipped with 1200 MHz Athlons and 3DLabs video cards and got deployed in labs where it could get very hot in the summer. In the second summer the caps on these boards went off like popcorn. 🤣

When the caps "went off", did they make any noise? Due to space problems, I've had to put my boards in the attic. The problem with this is that it's extremely hot up there during the summer. Last night, I heard 2 peculiar bangs like small fireworks. The first thing that came to mind was my boards! They're all jammed in tightly in to boxes ATM, so I would have to pull them all out to check each one. If caps "going off" don't make any significant noise, then it was most probably something else - lots of drunks round here. 🤣

retro games 100 wrote:

When the caps "went off", did they make any noise?

Rarely. I was slightly exaggerating. 😉
Most plagued capacitors just get that "bulgy" look. Some of them burst open with a faint "plop" and leak glue and electrolyte. Very few actually explode; this only happens when the aluminium casing of the cap is faulty as well. I've seen hundreds of bulging/leaking caps, but only two or three exploded ones.

retro games 100 wrote:

Due to space problems, I've had to put my boards in the attic. The problem with this is that it's extremely hot up there during the summer. Last night, I heard 2 peculiar bangs like small fireworks. The first thing that came to mind was my boards!

🤣
Well, a hot attic is certainly not the best place to store electronics, but I doubt you would hear them in the next room.
At this time of the year I would rather attribute it to celebrating Yanks. 🙄

I tried running Uniflash (Version 1.4), but it won't allow me to flash the BIOS. Uniflash's main option screen says -

(FFFF,FFFF) Flash ROM Chip: Unknown
Organisation: N/A (Is write protect disabled?)
etc...

The option to flash the BIOS is "greyed out"

I'm really disappointed with this. Typical ebay crap! I'm prepared to go that extra mile with this board to get the latest BIOS. Is my next best move to remove the BIOS chip, and send it to a nerd 😉 , along with Abit's latest BIOS file, so it can be flashed inside a special nerdmachine (tm) ?

Edit: the current BIOS appears to be the "65" version, 11/07/2001.

How about I get one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt … _fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

The only problem is that the ebay auction title says "...Raid..." The version is correct: 1.3, but I have the non Raid board.

What's the name of the chip (under the sticker) ?

Did you look for a write protect jumper or write protect option in BIOS?

What's the best way to remove those "shiny holographic" stickers?! I think it's a winbond chip. All I can see are the end bits of information -

........nd (Winbond?)
........12B
........01SA

Judging by the finger nail scratch marks around the sticker, it seems I'm not the only one who wants to find out what the chip is!

I did check the BIOS menu options for a write protect setting. I was unable to find one.

I just spotted this on ebay -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt … em=270420234931

They seem to offer a BIOS chip replacement service. I've emailed them, to see if they can help.....

Did you look for a jumper on the board...

Nope, there's no BIOS write protect jumper on the board. 🙁

I just tried this board [Abit KT7A V1.3] with an Athlon 1333; A1333AMS3C. No POST. 😒

Wish I could help but I really suck when it comes to this "new" hardware 😜

Amigaz wrote:

Wish I could help but I really suck when it comes to this "new" hardware 😜

Hehe!
Come back old 486s, all is forgiven. (Actually, perhaps not. 😉 )

Sorry to go back to this ebay item -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt … em=380104186303

But the seller has just told me this -

"I have a replacement bios chip for the Abit KT7A V1.3 motherboard and I will program it with the latest bios revision."

In other words, he can cater for the non-Raid board, which is the one I have. However, I'm a bit worried about what to do with those 2 smaller chips in the auction item photo. I don't want to do any soldering, because I haven't got any appropriate equipment or experience.

If it's a simple case of putting in the new Winbond chip, do you think it's worth a go?

I think you get only one chip. They depict what you would get if you had a different mainboard.

h-a-l-9000 wrote:

I think you get only one chip. They depict what you would get if you had a different mainboard.

OK thanks - I think I might give it a go! 😀 I feel as if I've got little to lose, if I want to get this board running properly with a T-Bred CPU.

BTW, my 1700+ rated T-Bred runs OK, it's just not detected correctly. I set it to 1200/133 speed in the BIOS, and noticed that it runs a lot cooler than a Thunderbird A1000 CPU inside a Gigabyte mobo.

One of big changes with the T-breds vs. T-birds is the reduction in the die size. Basicly the entire microchip being smaller means that less power is needed for it to operate, and therefore there is less power loss in the form of heat.