VOGONS


Reply 21 of 26, by Tetrium

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cdoublejj wrote:

i have completely disassembled and painted cases before i have a purple 89se p3 rig, granted it was intended or a different purpose.

Pics or it didn't happen! 😜

Reply 22 of 26, by GuillermoXT

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Retrobrighted my K6-2 System and my father's old 286 Tandon the last few days 😉

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GA-586TX-3 Mainboard
K6-2 400 CPU AFQ (6x66mhz)
128MB Ram
Matrox Mystique 4MB + Voodoo 1 4MB
4x USB 2.0 hub PCI
Fastrack Ultra 100 PCI
80gb HDD
Sound Blaster Pro 2 ISA

Reply 23 of 26, by Killian

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I wonder if using 303 Aerospace Protectant will help to prevent yellowing again - it's a UV protection made for plastics (used in boat / automotive industry). It's easy to apply and easy to remove - although that's not necessary because it doesn't alter the color. I recently did retrobright on an old AT case and old Roland speakers and I applied 303, so let's see if it will help. But it will take few years to find out 😀. Also the 303 is not a permanent protection, you will need to reapply it from time to time, but it will probably take months indoors until it disappears from the surface. I think it should because it also partially seals the plastic surface so that less oxygen will "oxidize" the plastic (yellowing isn't just caused by UV, there are multiple factors, it's also caused by oxygen and heat itself. There is a good short article on the yellowing process and it also debunks some myths around it- https://medium.com/@pueojit/a-look-into-the-y … cs-db14b646e0ad).

Reply 24 of 26, by badmojo

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I've given my retro plastics the 303 treatment but only started doing it about 6 months ago - impossible to know if it will have a positive effect but it can't hurt I don't think.

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If it's broke, then fix it!

Reply 25 of 26, by Socket3

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I use liquid Vanish Oxi Action. I wash the part thoroughly, then coat it with a thick layer of the substance, then wrap it in clear foil and set it in the sun. In strong direct sunlight and heat, plastics can bleach in as little as 3 hours. In weak winter sun it can take up to 24 hours to bleach a part. Powerful UV laps and heat (30-40C) also work well.

I tried the powder version of Vanish Oxi Action as well - wash the parts and put them in a container filled with warm water and Vanish. It works, but a lot slower then coating the parts in liquid vanish.

The advantage of using liquid vanish is speed - but if you're not careful to coat the part uniformly, you might get streaks or the plastic won't bleach uniformly. Using the powder version and submerging the part in water does not have this problem, but it's painfully slow.

Reply 26 of 26, by ykot

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I have done retro-brightening of an AcerMate 466d (486 machine) back in 2009 using a mix of water, diluted hydrogen peroxide and Vanish Oxy-Clean powder. The ugly yellowing in plastic case was completely removed and it was restored to its original white/beige color. However, after few years, the case in some parts turned yellow again, sometimes even dark/brown color, so needs another retro-bright. This happened only at portion that was somewhat visible so was accessible to indirect sunlight (reflection from walls, etc.) So it looks like you would need to re-apply retro-bright technique every couple of years, to maintain the original color. I have tried covering the plastic with Armor-All but the results were mixed.

An alternative is to get a case that is not affected by this yellowing - I have IBM Personal Computer 350-P75, which still has its original color and no yellowing whatsoever. Both IBM and Acer cases are placed at the same location (AcerMate lies on top of IBM when stored) so it seems the quality of plastic differs between manufacturers. I have also IBM Personal Computer 300GL, which does seem to be getting slightly yellowish and its plastic is becoming more fragile, so likely they switched to worse plastic type at certain point.