Is there any difference? 😀 i will try out the wax, looks more promising for the longterm usage. I would use the 303, if i have chance to reapply. Maybe easier to remove the wax, if it is necessary.
I retrobringted this case 8 months ago, it was very yellow… now it is yellow again (stored in a box in the dark).
This does seem to be an issue with retrobrighting. People reporting that the yellow discoloration will return over time.
I've decided to accept the yellow patina on older cases. It's just part of what makes retro systems retro.
Alternatively, I've pondered trying out airbrushing instead of retrobrighting. I've wondered if lightly airbrushing a case with the original color, plus a thin topcoat might result in a longer lasting finish. Though it would also be more prone to damage of the paint / topcoat.
arncht wrote on 2023-02-25, 20:01:Is there any difference? 😀 i will try out the wax, looks more promising for the longterm usage.
No difference yet. It's placed right behind the window and it gets enough sunlight every day. So I am hoping to see a difference in few months. I also think that the wax is potentially better because it's a thicker barrier.
Shponglefan wrote on 2023-02-25, 20:09:This does seem to be an issue with retrobrighting. People reporting that the yellow discoloration will return over time.
I've decided to accept the yellow patina on older cases. It's just part of what makes retro systems retro.
Alternatively, I've pondered trying out airbrushing instead of retrobrighting. I've wondered if lightly airbrushing a case with the original color, plus a thin topcoat might result in a longer lasting finish. Though it would also be more prone to damage of the paint / topcoat.
You mean, like the IBM ps/2 line? Those are coated and I yet have to come across one that is yellow.
Stuck at 10MHz...
Well if you find a paint that has similar colour like the plastic and similar matte shine, then that would definitely fix the yellowing 😀. The yellow stuff would not be visible under the coat of modern UV resistant paint. That's definitely not something you want to do to rare pieces, but for a random old PC case - why not? I think finding a spray paint that would look authentic isn't going to be easy, but maybe has already done this and it can be found on google.
Killian wrote on 2023-02-26, 17:50:I think finding a spray paint that would look authentic isn't going to be easy, but maybe has already done this and it can be found on google.
This is why I suggest airbrushing, not spray painting. With airbrushing you can mix any color you want to match the case color exactly.
I did this recently when repairing a case using epoxy. I was able to match the existing case color perfectly creating a near-seamless looking repair.
Plus airbrushing can go on much thinner than spray paint helping preserve the original texture of the plastic.
I do not think it will be so nice if it will be scratched. The dye would be perfect, but no chance to find the right color, and application process. Once i contacted with a company.
A computer beige could be popular for retro fans.
Did anybody can share results about that "303 Aerospace Protectant" after time? Did yellowing back?
I don't have a large test sample, but a case and speakers treated with 303 (applied multiple layers) yellowed again after 2.5 years at room temperature (it was also covered with a black plastic - didn't help).
informatyk wrote on 2023-05-21, 20:42:Did anybody can share results about that "303 Aerospace Protectant" after time? Did yellowing back?
You should reapply monthly, so if it even helps, not the best treatment.
I also started an experiment:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CuEAcyWN7c8/
arncht: please upload photos for people like me who don't use Instagram.
informatyk wrote on 2023-05-21, 20:42:Did anybody can share results about that "303 Aerospace Protectant" after time? Did yellowing back?
I recently pulled a case out of storage that I'd retrobrited back to a nice bright beige, then given a few coats of 303, then wrapped in heavy plastic and stored in my garage. That was about 2 years ago and it's yellowed again, so I don't think I'll bother with retrobriting again in future - it can't be good for the plastic and doesn't last anyway.
Life? Don't talk to me about life.
badmojo wrote on 2023-07-01, 12:31:informatyk wrote on 2023-05-21, 20:42:Did anybody can share results about that "303 Aerospace Protectant" after time? Did yellowing back?
I recently pulled a case out of storage that I'd retrobrited back to a nice bright beige, then given a few coats of 303, then wrapped in heavy plastic and stored in my garage. That was about 2 years ago and it's yellowed again, so I don't think I'll bother with retrobriting again in future - it can't be good for the plastic and doesn't last anyway.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I USE 303® AUTOMOTIVE PROTECTANT? It is recommend to re-apply product every 30-45 days for best results, and maximum protection against the sun's harmful UV rays.
I guess it uses similar stabilizer, what they put to the plastic, and it will degradate.
informatyk wrote on 2023-07-01, 07:52:arncht: please upload photos for people like me who don't use Instagram.
Retrobrighted parts, let’s wait another year in the dark, what happens.
Year 2050 - Nobel prize in chemistry is awarded to group of young scientists from MIT for their extraordinary achievements in retrobrighting. 🙂
In the past I've removed the front cover and just layed in the sun on my driveway for 14 hours of sun to 28 hours and that alone will turn the yellowed plastic atleast 3-4 shades whiter. The heat also seems to rearrange the molecules a little making them slightly less brittle.
Warlord wrote on 2023-07-01, 15:34:In the past I've removed the front cover and just layed in the sun on my driveway for 14 hours of sun to 28 hours and that alone will turn the yellowed plastic atleast 3-4 shades whiter. The heat also seems to rearrange the molecules a little making them slightly less brittle.
It will be just degradated even more, if you put it to the sun, even if the “color” is faded out by the sun. You should store them in a cold, dark place, if it is possible w/o oxygen.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photo-oxidation_of_polymers
https://popart-highlights.mnhn.fr/
Maybe with some coating we can slow down the process. It would be also a result, if it is yellowing again, but slower - that what i want to check. If there is no difference between the second traited parts, does not make sense to do do anything, and be honest the whole retrobringing is useless. If we can homogenize the sides, worth to invest, anyway just collect the most beige stuff, and try to store in the proper way.
