VOGONS


Assembling a machine for DOS/Win3x

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First post, by MrKsoft

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First off, hello everyone, this is my first post here. I'm probably a lot younger than some of the crowd around here, but still very interested in old hardware and games.

Anyway, I have liked DOS games since I first started with PCs. I first came in touch with them when I was four years old (1996), and the computer was a brand-new 486DX2/66. I've been using this to play DOS games ever since.
However, I feel the need to move on from it because it has a lot of flaws. Firstly, it's a Packard Bell, and I'm sure we all now how crappy those are. Secondly, while it can be upgraded to an extent, it's not much-- there are only a few expansion slots and the processor has no really rewarding upgrade path. Thirdly, the IDE controller doesn't seem to support any hard drive larger than 518 MB, which means I've unfortunately maxed it out while needing more space still.

So, I figure the time has come to put together a really awesome machine for the two operating systems that made up most of my childhood-- DOS and Windows 3.1, although I'm really favoring DOS most of the way. I just want 3.1 for GUI-based, relatively easier to set-up networking (I run an FTP server off my main computer in order to transfer files without having to worry about USB support, floppy disk storage space, or burning CDs) and a few old games that I miss.
I basically want to be able to play VGA-based DOS games and beyond. I like a few late EGA games (anyone remember the Jason Storm in Space Chase platformers?) but I've confirmed they won't be bothered by slightly newer tech. The most intensive titles I can think of are Quake and various Build-engine games like Duke3D. I'm also interested in OPL based music writing using Adlib Tracker, and tracker music with Scream/Fast/Impulse Tracker.

Anyway, why am I posting this? Because, to be honest, I'm much more familiar with the software side of things than the hardware side, at least with this age of computer. I want to know what I should be looking into. I basically want this to be completely tricked out with all the coolest parts for DOS games. I also want opinions on parts that I already have, as I saw someone else do in a thread about a month ago. I'm also hoping that if I'm looking for some specific parts for this, some kind souls here might be able to assist me with such-- golly, the Ebay prices for these sorts of parts are completely unreasonable.

My current plan:
I'm basically gutting another system I have, a Gateway 2000 P5-133 manufactured in 1996 that I got off a guy down the street for fixing his newer PC. The full tower case is way too big to be moved around easily, and in order to work inside you have to take the entire top off which is difficult to manage, annoying to put back on, and makes a lot of noise as it clangs around on the way off. (click for picture) I'm planning to remove the motherboard and place it in a smaller ATX case I have, which used to house a Pentium III system. The BIOS chip seems to have blanked out on that board with no way to restore it, so I'm left with an empty case that actually looks like a much better fit. (click for picture) The case itself is a bit worn so I may give it a paint job first.

Here's a rundown of the parts I have and also what I'd like to put in it. Pictures are supplied for most things. If what I have is too pathetic, I wouldn't mind picking up new things-- I've only started building up extra parts over the past year, so I'm new to this.

Motherboard:
The P5-133 came with a Gateway motherboard, obviously, but after some research I discovered it's not really anything unique. In reality, it's a standard Intel board based on their Advanced/ATX ("Thor") motherboard. It's almost exactly the same except that it has the cache on an external slot instead of directly on the board. The chipset is the 430FX, it uses Socket 7, it has 4 PCI slots and 3 ISA slots, and it already has 256k of cache installed. (click for (blurry) picture)
There is some information and a manual for the Advanced/ATX in this thread.

Processor:
Right now it has a 133mhz Pentium, which I believe will be enough for what I want (mentioned earlier). Would you guys agree? Or should I try upgrading the processor? (Apparently due to a voltage change I would need a Pentium Overdrive, but I'm not sure)

Memory:
The board takes 72-pin SIMMs. There is currently 16MB installed. I figure this is good enough-- I doubt I'd see huge performance gains going up to 32MB or 64MB. At least in DOS-- Windows 3.1 might be a bit different.

Video card:
Okay, here's where things get questionable. I have a few random PCI video cards and want to know what's going to perform best in DOS. I know some of them have 3D hardware, which would be a waste, but if the 2D performance rocks then I don't mind.
ATI 3D Rage II (seems to have composite and S-Video output)
ATI 3D Rage II DVD (Label says "Rage II+")
Cirrus Logic card (GD5446 chip, back side says CLVGA54PCI)
STB PowerGraph 64 (S3 Trio 64V+)

Sound cards: I don't have very many DOS-era sound cards. Ideally, I want to use all the ISA slots for the varying audio options for DOS games. One should be the typical Sound Blaster setup, although I really want it to be one with the OPL3 for music composition purposes. Next, I was thinking a Gravis Ultrasound or other wavetable-like card (to obtain later, because it seems they are ungodly expensive), and then the third card would be a LAPC-I or an interface to an external MT-32 (correct me if that's how it would work, I don't really understand DOS-era MIDI/MT-32 handling). Obviously the two other than the Sound Blaster are probably wishful thinking for starting off-- both seem very expensive. I'll be fine with just the SB to start.
Here's what I actually have in terms of sound cards:
Creative CT2960 (Vibra 16C)
Creative CT4180 (Vibra 16C)
Ensoniq Soundscape VIVO (Gateway 2000 OEM model)
Voyetra Sound144AM (The card in my old 486. SB Pro compatible, OPL2 only, also includes a 14.4 modem. Recognized by newer operating systems as an Aztech Sound Galaxy Washington 16. Cheap Packard Bell OEM crap.)

All these cards except the last are Plug 'n Play, which has been problematic for me in terms of DOS. Would I be better off with non-PNP cards across the board?
As you can see, my sound card selection is pretty crap. Apart from those, I just have some AudioPCIs that wouldn't be very helpful to this project. Recommendations would be very helpful, especially in finding a Sound Blaster or compatible with good sound and OPL3 quality. (I probably want one with a real YMF262 on it, I'm guessing) If anyone thinks there's a better combination of cards to cover all my bases, let me know.

Networking:
Any recommended PCI 10/100 ethernet cards for Windows for Workgroups 3.11? The only thing I have that isn't in use is this Netgear FA311, and it seems to be defective-- data transfers quickly for a few seconds, then slower and slower and slower, transferring at mere bytes per second, until the connection is cut and re-established and it does the same thing again. Tested on multiple systems.

Storage devices:
Planning to use the primary IDE channel for hard drives. Initially, I'll start with a single 8GB hard drive, partitioned into four 2GB partitions. If I need more, I'll add a second 8GB drive... I have tons of them. In the future, I might think about replacing them with CompactFlash cards, so the system runs faster and quieter.
The secondary IDE channel will have a 24X CD-ROM drive for sure. Thinking about adding a ZIP-100 drive, but I'm not sure if I'll need it, and the drivers would just take up more conventional memory.
For floppy drives, the standard 3.5" drive should suffice, but if I run into some older games perhaps I'll add a 5.25" drive later. As it is, I have no such disks.

I don't expect to have this fully loaded right away-- I want to get the basics down and then slowly add the "extra" parts (for instance, I can probably guarantee unless I have an excellent score at a garage sale or thrift shop, adding a MT-32 or LAPC-I will be a project for later on)

...wow, this is a long post and it took me almost two hours to write. Sometimes I impress myself. 😜 So, any thoughts?

Last edited by MrKsoft on 2010-09-08, 23:53. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 1 of 33, by leileilol

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If I were aiming for the 1991-1996 era i'd have a Socket 3 486-DX4 instead (either Intel DX4-100 or AM5x86133). Pentium has some issues with some of the earlier games, i mean try Blackthorne on any P5 and watch it just CRAWL as opposed to the 486 chip.

Also *COUGH COUGH SCI1 TIMING COUGH*

Turbo button benefits play into it too. It still runs Quake, if you like 10fps 😀 (opposed to around 24fps avg a p5-133 gets)

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long live PCem

Reply 2 of 33, by MrKsoft

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I had no idea that the Pentiums were problematic (I thought it was just PII's and beyond). I wouldn't mind going for an AM5x86-133 system. I actually considered it but then I went on Ebay and realized that Socket 3 boards have their prices shot into orbit. And let's not even get started on the processors themselves... My only concern though is that the last few games of the DOS era probably wouldn't work all that well in terms of speed.

But actually, a Socket 3 system would be a better choice. Most of those boards are Baby AT's, I have this empty Baby AT case that's a lot like the ATX case I was thinking about using, except even smaller, which would work better for a subtle little gaming machine I can hide away when I'm not using. Anyone want to source me a board?

Wafflenet OPL Archive - Preserving MS-DOS music in a unified format!

Reply 3 of 33, by archsan

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A lot younger? You can't be 9-yr old are you 😜 because we're in our twenties hehe jk (well, i am twenty-some but the rest i dunno 🤣)

um, just to get a better picture, maybe you can start skimming through the "Specs" subforum, especially you may find 5u3's "old school rigs" thread quite informative on the 486 front.

Don't limit yourself to ebay, though, and even when you're there, just pass any seller with insanely overpriced stuff. There are still sane ones left (using advanced/saved search with auto-notification could be a good idea, sometime you have to pass a year or five 😉 before you get what you want)

Btw for purist reasons, i'd go for a 386DX system, but for practical reasons, i'd go with an ATX platform, 440BX, PII underclocked at 133/166 combined with slowdown tool such as MoSlo. That should cover lots of the popular games.

Good luck!

Reply 4 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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Sounds good! You will have a lot of fun!

There are many "workarounds" for things that seem incompatible. E.g. for breaking various "hard drive size limitations" there are software solutions. Updating the BIOS is also an option.

There is nothing wrong with Intel chipsets. In fact they are usually the most stable ones, well documented and "just work" and have high compatibility with other bits.

That 486DX2 66 machine is well worth keeping. Firstly you already got it and it works. You can also insert slower models all the way down to a 486SX 16 MHz. Now that processor will turn your machine into the equivalent of a 386DX 33 MHz. Perfect!

In general with DOS games you need to pick a point in time that interests you. DOS was around for a very long time and playing a game from the late 80s and then another one from the mid 90s is a big jump in processing power.

The Pentium era was interesting with most Games being 3D in Dos. But it didn't take long for games to move to windows. If my memory serves me well I was already playing in Windows + Voodoo 3DFX on my Pentium 133. So there wasn't much DOS action happening any more. I remember some Star Wars game, Wing Commander Prophecy and other games and they all ran Windows.

So yea for bare metal DOS a 486 is very nice or you go with a much faster platform and slow it down by disabling cache. I am working on a project and you do need a 1+ GHz cpu to turn into a 386 machine equivalent. So its a very brute force type approach, however you have the benefit of dealing with fairly new gear which is cheap and easy to source.

Regarding soundcards, don't dismiss the ones you already have. Yes OPL is the authentic sound, however if I would give you a view recordings I highly doubt you would be able to tell which one is from a real OPL chip and which one from Creatives "clone chip" 😁

Your Soundblaster 16 cards will "just work", sound good, drivers are readily available on creative website and you will likely never run into any compatibility issue.

Primary HDD a read harddrive is still good. You can also use notebook harddrives. They are newer and with lower capacities and also very robust and quiet. I would get one of these CF to IDE adapters which you can fit into one of the back slots. That way you can load software very easy.

You partition and format the CF card in DOS, shutdown the machine, stick into your USB card reader on your big PC, copy your stuff over, stick the CF card back into the back of your old school PC and boot it up.

ZIP drives are excellent. The really really cheap ones are the parallel port ones. You can load the driver only when you need it (guest.exe) and you can get a IDE or USB version for your big computer.

Plug and Play shouldn't be an issue. What most people don't do is disable devices in BIOS which they don't need. On a DOS machine, serial ports, parallel ports, onboard lan, onboard audio can all be disabled. You usually find this under "integrated devices" in BIOS.

I just installed a AWE64 in my machine and it was easy as. Download the driver from the creative website. Run it to unpack it. Run install and everything "just works"!

My website with reviews, demos, drivers, tutorials and more...
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Reply 5 of 33, by MrKsoft

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Okay, after looking over what I can do, I'm going to push forward with this Pentium board. If I have issues with certain games I can always go back to my 486. As Mau1wurf1977 said, I have it and it works, so why not use it?

A few more random thought based on the responses:

-Okay, so I probably won't notice the difference between the Vibra 16 cards and real ones. I'd actually say that's true since I've done some recordings off one of them and it sounds as good as any other recording I've heard. Regarding Plug and Play, has anyone had issues with the CTCM program that seems to be needed for these cards to actually be seen? Does it stay resident and use much memory?

-Would I be correct in saying that my CT2960 card pictured above has a wavetable connector? I'm pretty sure that's what I'm seeing on it. If it is, I was thinking of getting a wavetable card like the Yamaha DB50XG (or whatever the cheap clone is that seems to be widely available) which I've heard good things about. (Some people seem to prefer the Roland ones, but I can't stand them because they seem to be SC-55 based, and they used the SC-55 for the MIDI patch set in recent versions of Windows) However, I know there are a ton of problems with stuck notes on certain DSP versions-- is there a way I can find out what DSP the card uses?

-I see a recommendation to run this off a CF card. However, I just thought, if I'm also running Windows 3.1, wouldn't this be a bad idea due to the swap file? Correct me if I'm wrong but I seem to recall that it's a very bad idea to turn that off on older versions of Windows, but if I leave it on I'd wear right through the flash memory on the card. If I still have to run a hard drive on the side just for Windows, then, I probably won't use a CF card at all, since I'm mostly interested in the quieter operation.

-I already have two IDE ZIP drives, so I've got that base covered. One for this, and one for my "work" machine. Guest driver is definitely the way to go-- I've tried that in the past and it works well.

Anyway, I'm cleaning out the new case today, which I realized after pulling it into direct lighting is pretty discolored and scuffed up. I think I may give it a nice new paint job before I start.

Wafflenet OPL Archive - Preserving MS-DOS music in a unified format!

Reply 6 of 33, by swaaye

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The Windows Roland wavetable is somewhat lower quality than a real Roland module but yeah I hear you on SCB-55 being overrated. There is a consideration here though: the composers wrote the music on a Roland synth very very often. So if you want to hear the MIDI like they wanted you to, a Roland synth is the only way to go.

I wouldn't even waste time with a Roland synth on a Creative card though. Almost all of their cards will have problems. The earliest SB16s might work but that's about it. I have a SCD-15 and have wasted many hours with Creative cards putting out messed up music.

Can't beat good old OPL FM though sometimes. 😁 Sometimes it just sounds "best" and most appropriate for the old games.

I've gotten a bit sick of the various old wavetable cards. None of them can really touch what you can get with good soundfonts. And you can easily swap soundfonts out if you don't like how it sounds (or just want to change things up).

Regarding the CF card, I'd just give it a try and if it fails well try something different then. I'd like to hear an actual story of failed flash storage for a change to break up the endless worry about it. You might just be a trailblazer here so who knows how long it will last.

Reply 7 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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I just installed a AWE64 the other day. There are 2 programs you need to get from the Creative support site.

- One is the plug and play manager
- The other one is the "Basic installation disc"

Both will configure autoexec.bat und config.sys on their own accord. If you disable all the non essentials in BIOS like parallel port, serial port, floppy, second IDE controller, sound chip, onboard midi port setup will be very easy. Mine worked right away...

Regarding midi music, well there are lots of opinions and I don't want to step on anyones toes. There is not really something as "best device" as "best" is subjective and some prefer the sound of a Yamaha model. Personally I value authenticity very high, so for me I only want soundcards from Creative Labs and Midi modules (only externals) from Roland. Nothing else comes into my home 😁

Yes there are stuck notes on many cards, so I do recommend getting a Roland (or clone) MPU401 card. You will need one for MT-32 / CM-32L / CM-64 / CM-500 anyway...

Yes good point regarding CF cards. I will use a notebook HDD + notebook to desktop drive adapter. The adapters are like 2 bucks off ebay. The CF card is for loading games, there is one that comes in a bracket which you install like a soundcard. So you can insert and remove the CF card without opening the PC and load games or other software on your desktop with a CF card reader.

Reply 8 of 33, by ux-3

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Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

The CF card is for loading games, there is one that comes in a bracket which you install like a soundcard. So you can insert and remove the CF card without opening the PC and load games or other software on your desktop with a CF card reader.

Actually, a CF2IDE adapter makes most sense when you use no HDD. While you can reduce noise with many components, old HDDs will be difficult to quiet down. For simple data transfer, I use an internal card reader that plugs into a regular usb1 socket. That way, you get front side USB and can use any old SD- or CF card for data transfer in windows.

Reply 9 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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Aha I see, thanks for the inside...

I try to stick to notebook HDDs. They are usually quiet and newer / smaller sizes. The adapters are dirt cheap, like 2 bucks... I am just waiting for someone on Australian ebay to sell a box of notebook HDDs 😁 I don't like to buy just 1 item when you get more for a better price with combined shipping and less bidders 😁

My current CF to IDE adapter can't boot and doesn't have UDMA. So I ordered other models, but it might also be the CF card. Don't know yet, but will know very soon!

Reply 10 of 33, by ux-3

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Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

My current CF to IDE adapter can't boot and doesn't have UDMA. So I ordered other models, but it might also be the CF card. Don't know yet, but will know very soon!

I wonder how that can be. The adapter should just be wires and power supply. There is no controller on it. Have you tried another card?

Reply 12 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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It's the cheapest 2 GB CF from ebay 😁

I read somewhere that some cards don't conform to the full IDE standard. However the adapter was also the cheapest. And some adapters specifically mention UDMA and booting...

But yea could just be card. Haven't got other cards I'm afraid...

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Reply 13 of 33, by MrKsoft

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Okay, so, I got the motherboard into its new case. However, now I'm having a major problem.

The system starts up fine and goes through the POST process, but right when it should finish, after checking RAM and detecting IDE devices, it stalls, then after about ten seconds the PC speaker just goes into an unending beep and it hangs there. I can enter setup and everything, but I can't get past the BIOS.

I've tried reseating the memory, moving them to the other set of memory banks (it boots whether they're in Bank 0 or 1), switching floppy drives, a different video card... pretty much switching out anything I have in there.

It's an AMIBIOS motherboard, so I tried Googling said beep, but AMIBIOS doesn't have such a beep code. However, the original set of IBM PC beeps, which I believe some boards use as well, matches a continuous beep up with "Power supply or Motherboard error", which confuses me. It's the same power supply, and the motherboard seems fine since it'll go into setup and everything. Additionally, all beep codes seem to assume that the computer doesn't start at all and you get no video or anything. Thus, my issue is different. I'm not sure why it's beeping, but I can't do anything with it.

Anyone familiar with such an issue?

Wafflenet OPL Archive - Preserving MS-DOS music in a unified format!

Reply 14 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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Remove everything (IDE and Floppy) and see if it POSTs and gives you an error message.

If you do, then try booting only from the floppy drive..

Reply 15 of 33, by MrKsoft

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Alright, I removed everything and it's the same deal. Removing the video card makes it do the beeps for "no video card" and then after a while it does the constant beep.

However, I might have found the culprit. I found what appears to be a leaking capacitor on the corner of the board (If someone could check that picture and make sure I'm right about that, it would be nice). This is the first experience I've had with one so I'm not entirely sure how to handle, clean up after, and replace it. I wonder why it blew during the move, of all times. Strange coincidence.

EDIT: Okay, maybe it didn't die during the move. When I was trying to identify the board before starting this project I took some pictures of the board and now that I look back at them, the leak is there, too. However, at the time, it booted absolutely fine, so I'm confused.

Reply 16 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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Well might be time to look for a new board? Good thing is they are cheap... If it's to hard, I usually move on and cut my losses. Time is also money 😉

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Reply 17 of 33, by MrKsoft

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It's a bit difficult as a semi-poor high school student 😜 I can afford little things, a $5 CompactFlash adapter here, a $10 sound card there... but the motherboards seem to be a bit pricier than that. (Cheapest Socket 7 board I saw was $10 but it was a crap OEM board that didn't have any ISA slots and needed a riser card for PCI, and that just won't work. Most seem to be around $30+shipping. If I can't source one of those, my other choice is a 486 board but then we get into trouble since I'd have to pick up all new parts for it, like RAM, processor, etc.)
Unless someone has a board similar to this one (that is, Socket 7, ATX, with 3 ISA slots) that they'd offer me at a reasonable price. Or at least if I could be pointed towards something good.

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Reply 18 of 33, by Mau1wurf1977

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Well there is one thing you have plenty as a student and that's time...

I would look for complete computers which you can pick up for free. Put up notes, search the classifieds and so on.

You would be surprised how many people have old computers hiding somewhere. Then keep what you need and sell the rest.

On ebay filter for auctions only. Put it 1$ bid for most items that are in your area and if a few win, well pick it up and sell it for more or keep getting stuff until you can build a whole computer...

You can really build up a computer on next to no money just by trading and being smart in getting things for cheap.

30 bucks for a whole computer is a much better investment than 10 bucks for just a mainboard...