I'm pleased that I've finished SIMM testing and I have no more errors. I tested the SIMMs by loading up either 8MB or 16MB in to each mobo. I ran Windows 95, and then WinTune97. I also ran a DOS Compact Flash disk, and then ran cachechk(7) and Speedsys. Everything works OK.

While I was running all of these tests, I used a 100 MHz osci, and overclocked the bus at nearly top speed. I wanted to push the hardware quite hard, and because my tests work, I feel happy that the hardware is robust.

CONTAQ-386 SYSTEM BOARD wrote:

"Removal is more difficult than installation and requires the gentle use of a suitable tool (e.g. a screwdriver)."

🤣!

btw, reading the manual, I have to say, it's English is pretty darn good!
Not like that half-broken Engrish that was common in those days.

However, in retrospect, these simm slots were a new thing in those days (it was the very first memory slot after the usual "Upgrade ram? Then fill up those memory sockets with 12000 of those small memory chips!" era.

Still I'll prefer to use my fingers.
If I need to use force, then that's fine, but I make it a habit to prevent damaging my hardware...theres enough accidents as it is! 😜

retro games 100 wrote:

I wanted to push the hardware quite hard, and because my tests work, I feel happy that the hardware is robust.

Absolutely! I'm glad this board didn't turn out to be a dud.
Imo it's a great bargain!

DonutKing wrote:

RG100: destroyer of hardware 😜 🤣

I only bought one of those boards and its still chugging along fine although maybe I should buy a spare before they are all destroyed 🤣

Hehe! 😦 There's still 6 of 'em left. 😀 I'm surprised no one else seems to want them. They're here.

I don't think they will be lasting very long though. It's a pretty good deal 😉

Tetrium wrote:

I don't think they will be lasting very long though. It's a pretty good deal 😉

I'm sure I've seen old usenet posts dating back several years, mentioning these boards from this seller! I think he's had them [not the 6 specifically on sale at the moment] for ages! Honestly, I think those 6 will take a while to go. Let's see..... 😀

wow... I have never seen anyone remove SIMMs/DIMMs using a screw driver
I myself has ALWAYS used my hands to remove them, no matter how hard they are clipped on.... they are designed to be removed by hand, not with tools

like the others said... don't do it again!

if anything, get a smaller, lighter screw driver, not one of those huge multi-bit screw drivers that are clumsy to use! dropping a pocket screw driver will have so little mass that the chance of screwing anything up is reduced compared to a big one
as the old saying does, if you need to use a tool, use the right tool for the job!

Well, the dimms are a different story. But for simms, I'm a bit surprised when you say that you can damage anything when trying with a screwdriver! Most of the times I use one to do so... And I don't mean for simm sockets whose metal clips are hard to move by finger, but when there is limited space for the fingers to fit. There is so little force applied, that up to now, I've never been able to cause any damage while doing this... And also, there are some old and (I suppose) cheap motherboards, with some strange simm sockets, without metal clips, but plastic. Those are very hard to remove the simms from using bare hands....

where did I say anything about "damage anything" when using a screw driver? damage occurs when you have a "oops" moment and slips out of your hand and it strikes something like what happened, which is why it's a bad idea to begin with! screw drivers are meant for removing screws, not prying... so if you are using it for purposes other than intended, you better be smart about the size for which you are using it for the unintended purposes

if you use a large screw driver, especially one with a heavy handle (usually those multi exchangeable bit ones), those are hard to control, and when they do slip off, the mass of it can easily smash something up good!

even if the tip and handle weren't large, a long screw driver can be just as bad... because you have much less control and more force (due to leverage) from it being longer... a slip might not damage anything if it hits the board, but a slip might break the clips for the SIMMs

so as I said, if you must use a tool, use the right tool for the job!
in this case, a short small flat blade screw driver (with a handle large enough to easily grip, but not large enough to be hard to control... jeweler's screwdrivers are a bad idea because they have very small handles) is best for this type of job

The manufacturer of this 386 SIMM-based mobo realised that removal of the SIMMs was awkward [in reality, it's practically impossible using fingers], as they state in the manual that "Removal is more difficult than installation and requires the gentle use of a suitable tool (e.g. a screwdriver)."

The way to get the SIMMs out is to use some kind of tool, and a screwdriver is an acceptable tool to use. In fact, about 60 seconds ago I did just that, as some 4MB SIMMS have arrived that I need to test. The key thing to do is to put the mobo on a table, so that the screwdriver can push slightly upwards on the very tight and awkward to move SIMM holders. If the tool slips, it just harmlessly goes in to space, rather than slip downwards, towards the board.

I've tried a couple of times to use my fingers. They really are practically impossible to move. There's no "outer clip" to push down on, so that the SIMMs fall away from the SIMM slot more easily. Instead, the clips are evil things, that do not budge by use of fingers alone.

Ok, I believe you are right. And not looking forward to it, LoL!

Tetrium wrote:

Ok, I believe you are right. And not looking forward to it, LoL!

Hehe. You may be lucky. (Just) One of my Contaq 386 boards had the commonly found on 486 mobos "push down clips" on the SIMM holders. That makes all the difference. It's easy to use your fingers with these, as they are evidentally designed for finger use.

Just out of curiosity: do you use a grounding strap when you're doing this sort of thing?

I get anxious about bringing my fingers too close to components out of fear of electrical discharges, but as I too have had some close calls with screwdrivers I am re-evaluating my methodology.

Jorpho wrote:

Just out of curiosity: do you use a grounding strap when you're doing this sort of thing?

I get anxious about bringing my fingers too close to components out of fear of electrical discharges, but as I too have had some close calls with screwdrivers I am re-evaluating my methodology.

I'm paranoid about sending ESD in to my IT equipment. But having said that, I use no anti-static wrist strap. Instead, I press a finger against a screw sticking out of my PSU, which is always plugged in to the mains, but sometimes not switched on.

My reasoning is that the PSU will be earthed if it is plugged in to the mains, and if I have any static electricity about me, it will get discharged if I press against the screw. I do this many times, as I work with retro junk. To the very best of my knowledge, I haven't broken anything with ESD in the 2.5 years I've now been messing about with this stuf.

Jorpho wrote:

Just out of curiosity: do you use a grounding strap when you're doing this sort of thing?

I get anxious about bringing my fingers too close to components out of fear of electrical discharges, but as I too have had some close calls with screwdrivers I am re-evaluating my methodology.

I have 2 wrist straps, but don't always use them. If I don't, I always touch some metal part which usually isn't grounded but I figure it's less statically charged then I am!
If I don't discharge, I'm a walking electrical powerplant or something. I have very dry skin. Sometimes if I go to bed and take my clothes of I can sometimes even see the sparks! But usually it's only the sound I hear.

So I've made it a habbit to unzap myself regularly, if not, all the time.
I don't use a grounded thingy, the item you may want to touch may have a charge of itself, so if you discharge and then touch the item, you may do exactly that what you tried to prevent.

I've also noticed it depends a LOT on the weather!
If it freezes, I don't even bother doing any hardware-ing. Same with warmer, but very dry and windy weather. Ideal is on a rainy warm day!

So far I haven't zapped anything, at least not that I've been able to confirm.

Look what I've just found, on ebay. Do you recognise it? It's identical to the 386 Contaq board except for one very curious difference. The big chip next to the RAM has the word CHIPS written on it, whereas the contaq boards have SIS on this chip. Is that PC CHIPS, the "evil" IT component manufacturer?

retro games 100 wrote:

Look what I've just found, on ebay. Do you recognise it? It's identical to the 386 Contaq board except for one very curious difference. The big chip next to the RAM has the word CHIPS written on it, whereas the contaq boards have SIS on this chip. Is that PC CHIPS, the "evil" IT component manufacturer?

I don't know, but the 386 board I've had for years now also has this chipset. It has multiple chips which are numbered "5", "6" or something.

I doubt it's the same, or at least the 'exact' same, though obviously I don't know for sure. Maybe they are connected, and maybe not.

Hint: I had today after 1-2 hours of PC powered on many parity errors, then I set 1 WS (wait state) for all the memory options in BIOS and next hours it runs without problem.
Motherboard: M321 386DX40 8MB(8x1MB) RAM