Get a slocket with its own voltage regulator, such as the famous PL-iP3/T.

The only time I saw one of those it was ridiculously expensive. 🙁
The slocket I have has jumpers for 1.3v to 3.5v as well as 2 others that aren't labeled.

Upgradeware Slot-T is common, asus P2-99 is mentioned in the compatibility list.

Yes, Slot-T is a good option for motherboards having a voltage regulator that is able to provide voltages down to 1.3V; I use it on my Tualatin-powered P3B-F motherboard. It also works fine in one of my P2B boards (rev. 1.10). The following guide is very useful for Asus P2B upgrades. You can check whether your board's power regulator is compatible with Tualatin or not:

http://homepage.hispeed.ch/rscheidegger/p2b_p … ltage_regulator

This information is also valid for any other slocket with jumpers for 1.3V to 3.5V if you do the CPU mod. Slot-T just makes the mod unnecessary.

It appears I do have a supported voltage regulator and my adapter works fine so far.

I still need to mod either the slocket or the chip, but I'm not sure which one is a better idea.

TheLazy1 wrote:

It appears I do have a supported voltage regulator and my adapter works fine so far.

But did you actually examine your motherboard's voltage regulator, or you think it's a supported one just because a Pentium III 800 works fine? You could be overvolting it to 1.8V without noticing. A Coppermine CPU will happily accept that voltage (their nominal Vcore is 1.65V-1.75V), but I doubt a Tualatin could survive it. You should install Asus PC Probe to monitor Vcore.

Oh, I should have been more clear. My voltage regulator is on the supported list on the page you linked.

OK, your Tualeron should work fine then. About where to do the mod, I'm not really sure about that. I guess it would be reasonable to mod whatever component is cheaper and easier to replace if something goes bad.

I'm going to have to do the generic slocket mod.
🙁

Bah! Nothing is ever easy!

I'm cheap and do not already have conductive paint, in theory could all of the bridging be done on the slocket using tiny wires and careful soldering?

TheLazy1 wrote:

I'm cheap and do not already have conductive paint, in theory could all of the bridging be done on the slocket using tiny wires and careful soldering?

Solder and wire cost more to use than conductive paint and if you make a mistake, it's harder to fix. Get a rear window defroster repair kit for a few bucks at the auto parts store. It has a small jar of conductive paint in it.

I'm more worried about my shaky hands with either method.
If you did all of the mods on the slocket itself, could you plug in any unmodified Tualatin and have it work?

There's a guy on ebay selling the chips pre-modded so all you have to do is plug them in if you want to do it the really easy way.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tualatin-Celeron-1-4G … =item415d0baaed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tualatin-P-IIIs-1-4GH … =item3f04fd9f47

That guy must have insanely steady hands to solder those bridges with such little room.

TheLazy1 wrote:

I'm more worried about my shaky hands with either method.
If you did all of the mods on the slocket itself, could you plug in any unmodified Tualatin and have it work?

You could use masking tape, if your working area (on the PCB itself) permits it's use 😉

sliderider wrote:

There's a guy on ebay selling the chips pre-modded so all you have to do is plug them in if you want to do it the really easy way.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tualatin-Celeron-1-4G … =item415d0baaed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tualatin-P-IIIs-1-4GH … =item3f04fd9f47

Word of warning. I bought a Tualeron 1.3 from someone in Seoul with that exact page layout and won't work in either my ASUS CUSL2-CP (Intel 815EP) or MSI-6309 (Via Apollo 133A). The MSI would post and try to start but then the screen went all gibberish. The CUSL2-CP wouldn't post at all!

Dunno if the chip burned up or what but its a paperweight to me 🙁

I didn't contact him as I waited too long before trying the chip.