I do not recall. I suggest reading the whole thread. I think some older boards implement 33 MHz on the PCI-X slot, while others may implement 66 MHz.

depends on the card. PCI-X can go from 33mhz/32bit to 133mhz/64bit.

but in the case of P3's, they will cap at 66mhz / 64bit.

Hello Everybody,

I'm just new over here. I register myself half an hour ago. So my apoligize if i place this question is in the wrong topic!
I've read some nice and good things about Tualatin cpu's. But i have some questions, maybe there is someone who wants/could help me??
I've installed a Tualatin cpu on my Pentium 3, it starts and i can get through the BIOS to the windows XP.
When is start, i get some fault codes in de BIOS, about Equipment mismatch error and CPU mismatch error.

I've installed a 1400 mhz Tualatin, but it only runs at 1050 mhz.
I can't install more than 192 mb Ram, otherwise i get fault beeps in my BIOS. They tell me that my RAM sticks of 256 mb each, are not working.
Before i changed to the 1,4 Tualatin, i was using 733 mhz Coppermine with 512 mb Ram. Everything worked fine.
After the problems of the 1,4 Tualatin i changed back to my 733 Coppermine with 512 mb RAM. And it works prefect without the fault codes in the BIOS.
So i know for sure, my Acer S58M motherboard (with intel 815 chipset) is working fine. Both CPU are working, so nothing is broken. But the 1,4 Tualatin with only 192 mb RAM is not working on the maximum performance. My desktop system is a Acer Veriton 5100.

I think my BIOS version is not capable of running with Tualatin cpu's. But i can not find any newest version of my BIOS. (not even on the technical support website of ACER) Maybe someone over know a newer BIOS version for my system??
The only thing i can find on the ACER website is some new drivers for my chipset (Intel 815 on a S58M motherboard), but i dont know if this is good enough?? It's not a new BIOS update, as far as i know??

And this is where my knowledge stops.... I hope somebody got a idea about to solve my problem??
With kind regards!

Best option is to track down a newer bios. the 815 chipset should be okay with tualatin.

I would recommend starting a new thread, the people that follow this thread are crackpots who use old dual-cpu server boards, so the majority of other members are going to ignore this whole thing.

Anyone ever have any joy running these (natively) on any version of a CUR-DLS?

Thinking I might give this a go as a side project, as I can lay my hands on a no-cost board which was a recent working pull from a FSC Primergy B210 server. Reason I say natively is that although the board doesn't appear to support them, I notice that the last but one bios upgrade from Fujitsu (though not available thru Asus) contains the highlighted revision comment:

Changes for FSC ACPI BIOS V60 Revision 1009.1241 --> FSC ACPI BIOS V60 Revision 1011.1241 06.11.2001
=================================================================================================
- Fixed floppy access problem in configurations with Adaptec RAID controller together with boot SCSI onboard first
- Display string of Tualatin Processor correctly
- Modification due to Com port CRC errors
- Set the low limit of Chassis fan (Power Supply Fan) to 1660
- Hardware monitor entry -5v removed
- Separate DMI structure for each CPU.

I know this particular board shipped originally with v1009 and the latest is v1012, but I can't imagine they would bother to correct string enumeration for processors the board didn't support - or is that just wishful thinking 😀

Thoughts / comments welcome.

You would have to mod the board. The CUR series is coppermine only. So if you used some sort of lin-lin adapter it might just work. MIGHT That is why I spent a decade looking for the TRL-DLS. Native tualatin support.

Only the i815 with B Stepping are compatible with the 130 nm (true) Tualatins.
The (true) Tualatins have a lower AGTL signaling voltage which is not compatible with the earlier i815's.
Officially they also require a rev 8.5 VRM.

If you have an earlier rev of the i815 then you can use a Coppermine-T - which is often incorrectly called a Tualatin.
The Coppermine-T's are on a 180 nm process.
They were compatible with both the higher (old) and lower (new) AGTL signaling voltage so they pretty much work with any chipset.
Additionally they were compatible with pre v8.5 VRM designs so they basically work on any skt370 mobo with a 133 MHz FSB.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentium_III#Coppermine_T
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_I ... 2_(180_nm)
.

luckybob wrote:

depends on the card. PCI-X can go from 33mhz/32bit to 133mhz/64bit.

but in the case of P3's, they will cap at 66mhz / 64bit.

Right.

Also note that if you mix cards in the same PCI-X bus then all cards on that bus will run at the lowest speed.
Some boards (many server boards) have more than one PCI-X bus to get around that problem.
.

@luckybob

Thanks for the info - I'll leave the idea alone for now, although I see quite a few of the (lesser) TR-DLS boards are available. Maybe another time.

Not sure how I have missed this thread 😁
Have several dual Tualatin builds, one of them has dedicated thread in System Specs sub-forum.
*SuperMicro P3TDE6 with dual 1.4 GHZ SL657, 4x512MB PC133, 6800GT, Creative Voodoo2 12MB SLI, SB Live with Live Drive
*Asus P2B-D with dual 1.4GHz SL5XL using modified S370-DL, 3x256MB PC133 (4x256 would not register all the time), VIO mod to 3.5v, Ti4400
*Compaq AP550 (version of OR840), running dual 1.26 GHz ones (just had them around), 4x256MB RDRAM, Asus 6800GT 128MB (V9999GT).

No issues with AGP stability on P3TDE6, works perfectly with default settings etc.

I just got my first working dual Tualatin with Gigabyte GA-6VXD7 (VIA 694X) rev 1.0 mainboard 😀 after a unsuccessful (work in progress though) attempt on Tyan S1834D MS-6905 slotket V2.3 works fine, V2 only at 100MHz

Current specs:
GA-6VXD7 - needs a recap, but works and is stable
Two 1.4GHz SL5XL P3-S
2 GB Kingston PC133 CL2 SDRAM
64GB Sandisk SSD
Radeon 9700 128MB (HD4650 is on the way)
RTL8100 network card
XP Pro SP3 (will try with Win 7)
Fortron SFX 300W PSU (300-60GHS)
mounted on DIY Acrylic test bench
90-100 watts under load
stable after 1 hour test in OCCT

How I performed the mod:
First I tried enlarging the holes in sockets and insulating the pins. It was really easy to take these sockets apart with plastic prying tools. I insulated AN3, AJ3, AK4 pins on CPUs and wire wrapped AK4-VTT bridge with Kynar wire under microscope, which looked perfectly fine. To my surprise I must have damaged the insulation while installing the CPU, or the wire got misplaced, because it instantly melted and overcurrent protection had shut down the PC... Something like that never happened to me before 😁 Hardware was still fine though, so I ultimately decided to desolder 3 pins (AN3, AJ3, AK4) and do AK4 - VTT bridge with 1k 0805 resistor soldered to one of the legs (it worked without the resistor, but I want to prevent it from becoming a heating element in case of accidental short. But i do not expect such problems after I permanently soldered it). I covered it with Kapton tape afterwards and put a gasket around the CPU to counter the extra thickness of wire bridge. CPUs worked fine without BIOS update.

Some issues (not big though):
CPU voltage is reported as ~1.26V. I measured it on the MOSFETs and it actually was 1.38V. Still that's lower than it should be (1.45V). Caps are bad, but I don't know if this is the cause of the problem. Will test again after recapping.

I can't get overclocking to work. This mobo has DIP switches and a single jumper to set FSB. I still get 133 FSB even after setting it to 142.

Is there anywhere to get a dual socket board with native Tualatin support without paying new computer prices anymore?
AGP would be preferable also.
$200+ is just unreasonable for such an old thing.

probably but you have to know what you are looking for since a lot of times the seller doesn't know. When the seller knows or thinks they have something thats when prices are jacked. Unfortunately most the time its "thinks" not knows

Very cool thread, not sure how I missed it until now.
Will be watching it going forward.

Here is some of my Tuly experience with bx/gx mobos: Re: 3 (+3 more) retro battle stations
Was thinking to add and dual Slot1 or820/or840 stuff in the coming days for completeness.

It's worse than I thought.
The board turned out to be over $500-and that's without the CPUs, case, or a GPU.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermicro-P3TDE6-So … rd/233327102408

i dont understand why it has to "natively" support it when most boards only support it with adapters. Most of the people on this forum used adapters. also if u want good agp that board you linked is horrible.

Native support-just for ease of building, nothing worse than buying all the parts for a system only to have incompatibility issues.
Didn't find any adapters that could be used without soldering, which I have no equipment for or skill in.
And now for a question I should have asked first, any recommended resources to use for doing such a build?

a_troll wrote on 2021-02-07, 12:27:

And now for a question I should have asked first, any recommended resources to use for doing such a build?

Reading up on all the threads involving the Tualatins here is a good way to start. Start by defining what you want it for. Any reason is justifiable (after all, it's your time and money) . If you are looking for a cheap AGP late 98 - early XP gaming platform, a better bet would be S478 P4's.

If you only want to go dual, the dual Tualatin are indeed top of the line, but so are prices. The days of getting them cheap from discarded DL380's are over.

If you're ok with single (especially if a gaming rig is your goal), there are still affordable and stable boards to find. But all takes time. In looking for parts that are 20+ years old, patience and a keen eye are key.

adalbert wrote on 2021-01-31, 20:51:

I just got my first working dual Tualatin with Gigabyte GA-6VXD7 (VIA 694X) rev 1.0 mainboard :) after a unsuccessful (work in p […]
Show full quote

I just got my first working dual Tualatin with Gigabyte GA-6VXD7 (VIA 694X) rev 1.0 mainboard 😀 after a unsuccessful (work in progress though) attempt on Tyan S1834D MS-6905 slotket V2.3 works fine, V2 only at 100MHz

Current specs:
GA-6VXD7 - needs a recap, but works and is stable
Two 1.4GHz SL5XL P3-S
2 GB Kingston PC133 CL2 SDRAM
64GB Sandisk SSD
Radeon 9700 128MB (HD4650 is on the way)
RTL8100 network card
XP Pro SP3 (will try with Win 7)
Fortron SFX 300W PSU (300-60GHS)
mounted on DIY Acrylic test bench
90-100 watts under load
stable after 1 hour test in OCCT

How I performed the mod:
First I tried enlarging the holes in sockets and insulating the pins. It was really easy to take these sockets apart with plastic prying tools. I insulated AN3, AJ3, AK4 pins on CPUs and wire wrapped AK4-VTT bridge with Kynar wire under microscope, which looked perfectly fine. To my surprise I must have damaged the insulation while installing the CPU, or the wire got misplaced, because it instantly melted and overcurrent protection had shut down the PC... Something like that never happened to me before 😁 Hardware was still fine though, so I ultimately decided to desolder 3 pins (AN3, AJ3, AK4) and do AK4 - VTT bridge with 1k 0805 resistor soldered to one of the legs (it worked without the resistor, but I want to prevent it from becoming a heating element in case of accidental short. But i do not expect such problems after I permanently soldered it). I covered it with Kapton tape afterwards and put a gasket around the CPU to counter the extra thickness of wire bridge. CPUs worked fine without BIOS update.

Some issues (not big though):
CPU voltage is reported as ~1.26V. I measured it on the MOSFETs and it actually was 1.38V. Still that's lower than it should be (1.45V). Caps are bad, but I don't know if this is the cause of the problem. Will test again after recapping.

I can't get overclocking to work. This mobo has DIP switches and a single jumper to set FSB. I still get 133 FSB even after setting it to 142.

I once had a Soyo BX board that would not go past 100MHz FSB with two of my modern Radeons: an AIW 9200 and a 9800 Pro. It would simply ignore the 106/112/124MHz FSB settings in the BIOS and just run at 100MHz instead. But throw in an nvidia, Matrox, or just about any other card, and the FSB settings would start working again.

Even though your board is from a different manufacturer and based on a different chipset, it might be worth trying out different video cards if you're interested in overclocking.

flupke11 wrote on 2021-02-07, 14:13:

Reading up on all the threads involving the Tualatins here is a good way to start. Start by defining what you want it for. Any […]
Show full quote

a_troll wrote on 2021-02-07, 12:27:

And now for a question I should have asked first, any recommended resources to use for doing such a build?

Reading up on all the threads involving the Tualatins here is a good way to start. Start by defining what you want it for. Any reason is justifiable (after all, it's your time and money) . If you are looking for a cheap AGP late 98 - early XP gaming platform, a better bet would be S478 P4's.

If you only want to go dual, the dual Tualatin are indeed top of the line, but so are prices. The days of getting them cheap from discarded DL380's are over.

If you're ok with single (especially if a gaming rig is your goal), there are still affordable and stable boards to find. But all takes time. In looking for parts that are 20+ years old, patience and a keen eye are key.

I have an older system for running games already, but it's a laptop I've owned since it was new.
The dual PIII would be more for the sake of building it, than anything else. Wanted a decent graphics card to see if I could run anything "modern" on it, again more for the sake of doing it than anything else.
Even if it doesn't work well, I'll enjoy doing it.