I would just unsolder it myself, solder in a socket and then stick in a new chip, I have in the past ordered replacement Dallas chips and they worked fine.

Thanks,

but to my best understanding that is also a relatively short-term and more expensive solution as the chips are not manufactured any more. So I am determinded to go the "coin-cell way".

Is this guide the best ?

It may or may not be the best guide, but the procedure is the same regardless. The clone chips are pretty much the same internally as the actual Dallas chips, so there's no need to get an actual Dallas one to do the mod.

Thanks for the straight clear-up! It would be nice if it was socketed but I judge from the photo that it is indeed soldered to the mainboard. Nothing is perfect.

The Dallas 12887 RTC modules are still made new by MAXIM. They work fine in the 8433UUD. I have ordered one within the past 2 years and it had an up-to-date datecode of 2010 or 2011. The internal battery should last 15-20 years. If it were me, I would desolder the ODIN and solder in a DIP socket for the RTC and install a new RTC. You will want a DIP socket even for the coin-cell modification incase something goes wrong.
Here is just one example of these RTC's being sold new,
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/DS128 … 87%2B-ND/956874

That particular MB-8333UUD v2.0 is an older version 2.0. It has JP17 solder shorted, so you will want to desolder it and put in a jumper header if you plan on experimenting with 50 or 60 MHz FSB's. The chipset datecode is also from Dec 1995. I have seen version 2.0 boards with mid-1996 datecodes as well. I do most of my 60/66 MHz FSB testing with a mid-1996 version 2.0 board.

Jolaes76 wrote:

First, my apologies to the one who made the offer but you gotta be faster on the draw and do not think about bargaining when...

twas me. I prefer to bargain and am always prepared to walk and move on. Theres a mb8433 rev 3 out there with my name on it somewhere 😀 hope your mod goes well

They went up to version 3.1 from what I can tell. I'm not sure how strict of criteria they used between revisions though. I've seen some 3.0 boards with socketed DIP's for the RTC, while other 3.0's had the RTC soldered on. Some v2.0 boards have JP17 solder shorted, while some have a jumper header.

rgart,

I hope you will get yours at a reasonable price as well.

feipoa,

do you think the very same -new- modules are available at ebay? I do not have really good experience with ship forwarding companies.

From my past experience, the resellers in China of Dallas RTC's on eBay cannot guarantee the datecode. If you ask around, you might find someone who is willing to send 2008+ RTC's. In the past I ordered about 8 RTC's from China. Some had 1995-1998 datecodes, some had 2004-2007 datecodes. I set aside the 1995-1998 RTC's and used the 2004-2007 pieces, which have worked fine.

Who are the major electronic components distrubutors in Europe?

I admit I do know the European power players. I was looking around at Conrad because they are present in my country as well. Of course, they keep the Tadirans and some special heavy duty medical batteries but no computer related stuff...

Does anybody know the European equivalent of Digikey, Mouser, Future Electronics, Newark, etc?

I am looking thru Farnell Elements' list. They have the socket, maybe they also have the correct RTC. Their prices with shipping are a bit higher than the USA counterparts, I think.

Yup they have it. Charge quite a pretty sum for it...

http://hu.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N … 3D2015%2B203650

I usually put a larger order together before I order from digikey. I find Mouser Electronics quite a bit cheaper though. You might have a similar situation in Europe whereby a less popular electronic component distributor is a good amount cheaper. Did you shop around?

Converting HUF to CND, you are paying about $16.8 at Farnell for the DS12887. Digikey is $12.8 + $8 shipping. It is not a small sum. I would test out the motherboard before ordering anything.

One other thought that popped into my head - I wonder if the new MAXIM DALLAS RTC's last as long as the old DALLAS RTC's? Maybe the last longer? Maybe not...

Yes, if preliminary tests reveal that this motherboard is unstable I will leave this project for later - lets say, when its price is over 200 USD everywhere so it will justify further investment of money and time.

But if it works OK I might transplant a DIP24 socket from a Soyo Pentium 1 board and try honing my skills at getting Dallas' chest de-bugged (sorry for the bad Alien joke)

Luckily, the DIP-24 sockets are a lot cheaper. These are the ones I am using:
http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?WT.z_ … D&x=-1052&y=-51