This is how I'd recap:

+12V: 16V 2200uF 12.5mm ----------> Panasonic FR 16V 2200uF 12.5mm
+12V: 16V 1000uF 10mm ------------> Panasonic FR 16V 1000uF 10mm

+5V: 2x 10V 3300uF 12.5mm --------> Panasonic FR 10V 3300uF 12.5mm

+3.3V: 2x 6.3V 2200uF 10mm --------> 2x Panasonic FR 6.3V 2200uF 10mm

-12V: 16V 220uF 6mm -----------------> IPanasonic FR 16V 220uF 6.3mm

+5VSB output filtering:
· 10V 2200uF 10mm ----------------- --> Panasonic FR 10V 2200uF 10mm
· 10V 470uF 8mm ---------------------> Panasonic FR 10V 470uF 8mm

+5VSB 'critical' cap 25V 100uF 6mm ---------> Panasonic FC 50V 100uF 10mm

'Small cap' 25V 47uF 4mm --------------------> Not sure about what this does, but just to be safe: Panasonic FC 50V 47uF 6.3mm

Panny FM are a bit too low ESR for this venerable PSU. FR all around for the output filtering caps will do fine.

For the small caps, overkill long endurance Panny FC of double the voltage rating, to play it safe and prevent +5VSB from ever running amok and roasting our mobo.

For simplicity we're talking just Panasonics, but other cap series from Rubycon, Chemicon and Nichicon would also work OK.

I should state that this Seasonic PSU is meant to power 8088, 286 and 386 boards, because i need to test boards every now and then. I don't think i will load this PSU with more than 100W. Do you really think i need to go out of the original caps specifications?

No real need then, you may stick to the original capacitances and voltages, in Panny FR flavour, for the ouput filtering caps.

I'd still use 50V FC for the smaller +5VSB regulation caps though, just for peace of mind.

* Just realized that this venerable PSU has -5V rail, so the 10V 470uF 8mm cap is probably for -5V output filtering (not for +5VSB). This doesn't change the specs of the replacement though.

** It seems the largest Panny FM in 10V 10mm is just 1500uF, there is no 10V 2200uF in 10mm, only 12.5mm . So you may use also FR for the +5VSB output filtering caps.

I've ammended the list above accordingly.

Farnell does not have Panasonic FR 16V 220uF at the moment so i will order FC instead.

I'm also gonna order the 470uf 10V in FM flavour as Farnell does not make me order 5 as minimum.

And i will follow your advice for the regulation caps i will order both 50V of FC flavour, one 100uf and the other 47uf.

So my checkout list on Farnell ATM goes like this:

Panasonic FR 3300uf 10V 12.5mm X 2

Panasonic FR 2200uf 6.3V 10mm X 2

Panasonic FR 1000uf 16V 10mm

Panasonic FR 2200uf 16V 12.5mm

Panasonic FR 2200uf 10V 10mm

Panasonic FM 470uf 10V 8mm

Panasonic FC 220uf 16V 8mm

Panasonic FC 47uf 50V 6.3mm

Panasonic FC 100uf 50V 10mm

Panasonic FR 1000uf 6.3V 8mm X 10 Never mind these, as i'm also recapping VRM on my Asus TX-97XE. I have Rubycon ZLH 1000uf 10V, but i think Panasonic FR's 1000uf 6.3V will have lower ESR than the Rubys and do a better job.

Thanks for the help TELVM! 😀

Your shopping list looks sound.

carlostex wrote:

... Panasonic FR 1000uf 6.3V 8mm X 10 Never mind these, as i'm also recapping VRM on my Asus TX-97XE. I have Rubycon ZLH 1000uf 10V, but i think Panasonic FR's 1000uf 6.3V will have lower ESR than the Rubys and do a better job ...

You're quite right, for mobo VRM caps you want as low ESR as possible, Panny FM would be even better for this job.

In fact as the higher the capacitance and the bigger the cap can => the lower the ESR, you may use caps of higher uF than the OEM ZLH 10V 1000uF 8x16mm (ESR=45 mΩ), like Panny FM 1200uF 8x20mm (ESR=30 mΩ).

The Nichicon HN were great for this role, the 10V 1500uF 8x20mm ones were only ESR=12 mΩ. Sadly they're EOL and it seems Farnell doesn't sell them anymore. 😵

Polys (which are extremely low ESR) would be even better.

I think i've found even better Nichicons. The L8 series seems to be excellent. But unfortunately Farnell does not have them on stock on the UK but only in US stock. For US stock items there's a 15£ delivery charge. 😵

Here's the datasheet:

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/664021.pdf

ESR for 6.3V 1000uf is only 9mΩ. 😮, is apparently uses some polymer tech.

Anyway, i need the VRM caps to be 8mm and unfortunately 1000uf 6.3V FM Panasonics are 10mm in diameter. But there are 1200uf 6.3V FM's in 8mm diameter. Can i use 1200uf 6.3V instead of the 1000uf 6.3V? I mean if the motherboard was designed to use these ratings i don't think i should mess with the capacitance values.

EDIT: I just found Panasonic FM's 1000uf 10V which are 8mm in diameter. Higher voltage should be fine.

Those Nichicon L8 polys are excellent, but from this side of the pond Farnell's 'US stock' is a deal breaker. 😵

carlostex wrote:

... Can i use 1200uf 6.3V instead of the 1000uf 6.3V? I mean if the motherboard was designed to use these ratings i don't think i should mess with the capacitance values ...

Of course you can, for mobo VRM caps increasing uF & ripple and lowering ESR is only good. Look how I 'messed' with VRM caps capacitance here and here, both mobos work like a charm. 😎

carlostex wrote:

EDIT: I just found Panasonic FM's 1000uf 10V which are 8mm in diameter. Higher voltage should be fine.

^ Yep. There's also a 6.3V 1200uF 8x20mm FM of same ESR (30 mΩ).

Great to know! I have the 1000uf 10V on my shopping list already, so i'll go with those. But great to know!!

Recapping the Seasonic PSU and the motherboard will cost me a bank breaking 6.76£!!! Panasonic is awesome! Affordable high quality caps!

(Just to dispell the notion that we might be shilling for some particular brand 🤣 ), some approximately ESR equivalent series from other jap makers:

Panny FC <=> Nichicon HE / PW <=> Rubycon YXG <=> Chemicon KY

Panny FR <=> Nichicon HW <=> Rubycon ZL <=> Chemicon KZE

Panny FM <=> Nichicon HV <=> Rubycon ZLH <=> Chemicon KZH

Remember to ALWAYS PLAY IT SAFE when tinkering with PSUs, and keep us updated on your progress Carlostex.

Will do, thanks TELVM!

And everyone rest assured, like TELVM i'm certainly not shilling for Panasonic, in fact we stated that the Nichicon L8 series is the absolut best. With an ESR value of only 9 mΩ these are abolutely killer. Too bad these are not on stock at Farnell UK.

EDIT: Just checked Mouser UK and they also don't have L8 Nichicons yet.

RS is worth a look too, they also have free UK postage. Their minimum unit requirements are often higher than Farnell though.

bjt wrote:

RS is worth a look too, they also have free UK postage. Their minimum unit requirements are often higher than Farnell though.

I also checked RS and they will only have Nichicon L8's on November.

Anyway, i ordered everything from Farnell and the order just arrived. The FM Panasonic caps for my Asus TX97-XE are real beauties!! All the caps are definitely top notch. Thumbs up for Panasonic. 😎

Unfortunately the solder wire hasn't arrived yet so i'll have to wait for tomorrow to do the recap, which will be documented here with a wall of pics.

If i ever get my hands on a DFI 586 ITOX mobo i'll fully recap it with Nichicon L8's.

carlostex wrote:

... The FM Panasonic ... ... are real beauties!! ...

Indeed!

This video shows the drill up & close: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xZ7DIkXJPg&t=2m05s

thanks to Carlos's help I was able to recap the Acer XT psu with some nice suitable nichicon/panasonic caps:

I also measured some of the original caps with a gizmo I got from eBay , no idea how reliable it is but here is what I got:

Always glad to help my friend!! 😎

And excellent job on that recap!

On my end it was a complete fail, i tried to use a cheap polish solder flux that just doesn't help to make the solder flow. I'm also using 0.7mm lead free solder which doesn't make my job any easier. 😢

EDIT: I just ordered EDSYN syringe flux from Farnell which will make the job a breeze.

I hate lead-free solder... only use it when I have to mix it with existing lead-free solder. Luckily you can still buy leaded solder here without hassle.

I wish the pic was high quality but here's a picture of the back of the XT-IDE board i assembled, and in which i used EDSYN FL22 syringe flux:

^ looking really nice!

It was so easy to solder! I applied the flux on the pads, put a blob of solder in the iron and then touch the pad with the iron. The solder in the iron flows immediately to the solder pad and forms a beautiful joint between the through hole component and the pad.

Here's the product if anyone is intersted:

http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servl … 1&storeId=10151

Well i got the EDSYN flux today so i tried again and well...what a difference! Same technique, flux on the pad, blob of solder on the iron. As soon as the hot solder touches the flux it flows nicely into the pad and the cap wire. I haven't turned it on yet but here's the result after the recap: