Do you get the usual static electricity that indicates the presence of high voltage?

How can I most reliably detect the static if it's there?

As I've said, all the working signs including the faint buzzing sound it always made when it was on are present. All the lights and buttons respond and the degauss function works. Just... no picture.

Can you see if the CRT heater is glowing?

I would drop it off for recycling. No point risking your life playing around with the inside. 😊

PeterLI wrote:

I would drop it off for recycling. No point risking your life playing around with the inside. 😊

exactly
generally the things that fail the most on a crt are as follows
filament in crt tube (blackscreen)
horizontal output transformer (vertical line or dot)
sync sweep (horizontal line)
and power switch.

a color crt ho transformer can generate over 24,000 volts and the tube can build up quite a charge and hold it for quite a while.
unless you have been properly trained in handling crt's do not attempt to repair them yourself
the jolt from the tube discharge can be lethal 😲

gnuuser wrote:

exactly generally the things that fail the most on a crt are as follows filament in crt tube (blackscreen) horizontal output tr […]
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PeterLI wrote:

I would drop it off for recycling. No point risking your life playing around with the inside. 😊

exactly
generally the things that fail the most on a crt are as follows
filament in crt tube (blackscreen)
horizontal output transformer (vertical line or dot)
sync sweep (horizontal line)
and power switch.

a color crt ho transformer can generate over 24,000 volts and the tube can build up quite a charge and hold it for quite a while.
unless you have been properly trained in handling crt's do not attempt to repair them yourself
the jolt from the tube discharge can be lethal 😲

Its not actually the tube the holds the charge but the high voltage filter capacitor. Still dangerous nonetheless

That said, if you stay away from the anode cap and the HV transformer, you should be pretty safe.
Checking to see if the filament works isn't that hard and doesn't require touching anything

gnuuser wrote:

generally the things that fail the most on a crt are as follows filament in crt tube (blackscreen) horizontal output transformer […]
Show full quote

generally the things that fail the most on a crt are as follows
filament in crt tube (blackscreen)
horizontal output transformer (vertical line or dot)
sync sweep (horizontal line)
and power switch.

Really? I've been repairing CRTs for many years and as far as failures go "open filament" and "shorted line output transformer" they are pretty damn rare. In fact I've never seen an open CRT filament even in dropped tubes, only heater to cathode shorts and power failures like cracked PCB traces or open fusible resistors.

I agree you shouldn't be mucking around inside a CRT without knowing basic electrical safety, but that's also true of any other line connected appliance.

smeezekitty wrote:

Its not actually the tube the holds the charge but the high voltage filter capacitor. Still dangerous nonetheless

The tube IS the high voltage capacitor. It is coated with a conductive paint on both the inside and outside, the anode cap connects to the inside, the outside is grounded through a metal strip and the glass acts as the dielectric, forming a capacitor.

leonardo wrote:

How can I most reliably detect the static if it's there?

In most monitors the front of the screen becomes charged and you can definitely feel it by waving your hand over it. Remember sticking pieces of paper to the TV screen as a kid just by electrostatic force? Also when you turn the monitor off some more static discharge can be heard. No static at all (if it had some before) is a sure sign of lack of high voltage.

My troubleshooting approach would go like this:

• Hit the monitor several times and see if it behaves any differently (this is known as percussive maintenance).
• Look for cold/dry solder joints, the most common failure in CRT monitors.
• Check the presence of high voltage. If there is none, suspect horizontal output transistor failure.
• If there is high voltage, check if the CRT filaments are glowing.
• If you have filament, turn up the screen (G2) control on the flyback to check for raster.

yeah I did a lot of tv repair a while ago those issues i posted were what i saw most often
as well as poor solder joints and the like
i cant remember how but my boss at the time made a few small jacobs ladders out of the flybacks
scared the crap out of most of our customers 🤣

Thanks guys, this has been most educational.

However I don't feel competent enough to go mucking in the internals. I was hoping there'd be some cheap or easy trick but based on the commentary I'd have to take it in for repair. I suspect parts are negligible cost, but the labor...

I guess now it all comes down to how easy it would be to find a replacement monitor of identical quality (after all people really are aching to throw away their CRTs). Sad to say, most monitors I've come across were cheap crap even when they were new. Finding a good quality CRT that hasn't been abused is really hard these days.

133MHz wrote:

In most monitors the front of the screen becomes charged and you can definitely feel it by waving your hand over it. Remember st […]
Show full quote

leonardo wrote:

How can I most reliably detect the static if it's there?

In most monitors the front of the screen becomes charged and you can definitely feel it by waving your hand over it. Remember sticking pieces of paper to the TV screen as a kid just by electrostatic force? Also when you turn the monitor off some more static discharge can be heard. No static at all (if it had some before) is a sure sign of lack of high voltage.

My troubleshooting approach would go like this:

• Hit the monitor several times and see if it behaves any differently (this is known as percussive maintenance).
• Look for cold/dry solder joints, the most common failure in CRT monitors.
• Check the presence of high voltage. If there is none, suspect horizontal output transistor failure.
• If there is high voltage, check if the CRT filaments are glowing.
• If you have filament, turn up the screen (G2) control on the flyback to check for raster.

No high voltage present. 🙁

Any reason why you can't use an LCD?

smeezekitty wrote:

Any reason why you can't use an LCD?

It's a collector thing. It's kind of like asking why you couldn't use a black widescreen LCD with your IBM PS/2 system (except obviously mine isn't as epic).

Also, I generally prefer CRTs to LCDs in old systems due to the horrible scaling and other artifacts created by most LCD screens when used with lower resolutions, LCDs being slower at updating screen content (typical refresh rate on an LCD is capped at 60/75 Hz) and finally not having digital connections (DVI) on the hardware.

Obviously were this my main system and not a dedicated retrogaming rig, I would have opted for a different monitor long ago.

I don't use LCD's either for my computers. I have at least 40 CRT's in my house, I don't mind lugging them around. The only LCD I use is my 52" Sony XBR6 hooked to a laptop for Youtube viewing in my living room.

I gave away 1 19" and 1 21" CRT this week. They take up too much desk space and burn too much electricity (rates went up a lot where I live recently due to a utility change and hurricane repairs).

I have a few CRTs around but I like LCD because it doesn't flicker. Also CRTs take up precious space

And some LCD have better scalers than others.

smeezekitty wrote:

I like LCD because it doesn't flicker.

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/inversion.php
CRTs generally don't show any perceivable flicker either if you set your refresh rates right. Also some modern LCDs now flicker in the same way as a CRT to achieve smoother animation...

smeezekitty wrote:

And some LCD have better scalers than others.

But none are as good as no scaling at all.

I took the monitor to a local electronics repair shop and they said they'd look into it for free and if they couldn't do anything about it they wouldn't charge me anything. I expected the repair bill to be upwards from a 100 euros but turns out the repair cost only 40 euros parts and labor included. The (young and enthusiastic looking) guy did say it was a task to take the thing apart tho and that he wouldn't want to have to do it again. 😁

I'm so happy. I know I probably paid more than the monitor is actually worth, but it warms my mind to know that it isn't going to a landfill anywhere and that I get to keep my best CRT for the time being. Good quality CRTs in good condition are getting hard to come by...

Cool. Good for you! 😀

Servicing CRTs isn't for the faint of heart unfortunately, but if you don't care keep reading.

Check the fuse, most likely it's blown. That should've stopped the VRM(s) and any other component from blowing out.

If the fuse is fine, check for black marks around the VRM(s) and other places.

Check for blown caps otherwise. Usually you'll get a bitter smell from blown caps. Area of blown cap can be surrounded by the liquid. Check around the Hsync panel; it's a PCB located behind the flyback. If anything wrong there you usually end up with a blank screen.

I really think a blown fuse should be the culprit. Just be extremely careful! CRTs are extremely dangerous and can be lethal; no joke! See next paragraph.

Proper procedure involves taking a negative lead (like 12 AWG jumper cables) and clamping it to earth-ground (a good one!) on one end, and clamping the shaft of a flathead screwdriver on other end (screwdriver should have rubber handle. You need to wear rubber gloves too). You take the screwdriver and carefully seep it under the anode cup (small silicone or rubber cap with a long red wire), and touch the metal in there (the lead of the long red wire and the contact point haha). If there was charge anywhere you should hear a loud smack, and maybe feel it (no joke. Won't hurt unless your bare hand is touching metal shaft on flathead screwdriver which can be lethal, so don't do that.). Sometimes there's an extra metal clip holding things together inside the anode; if you lose this you're completely screwed (I heard Trinitron tubes have these). Once that is done you should be ready to service the CRT. Also, you have to re-seal the anode cup with silicone sealant, otherwise it can leak and cause arching on the flyback which you don't want.

Personally think companies should keep making CRTs in very limited quantities for those that enjoy using them and know what they're doing. I also think many CRT owners here that notice flickering and other problems either have the wrong display for their eyes (need a DFP), or it is in need of serious adjustment and/or service. You guys that get rid of CRTs need to seriously try selling them instead of dumping them. There's many folks with Arcade and other game setups that would pay good money, even for a non working CRT or one of a "cheaper" variety; and they most likely know how to properly dispose and recycle them (better than your mainstream facilities).