Replacing a cap isn't all that hard. Just find the correct cap, and solder it. You can find way more info about it out there on the net.

In fact, I also have a broken cap on my GeForce 6600 GT, and I think I might just put a new one on it myself.

Hope you get it working - definitely my favorite sounding MIDI from that device.

Looks blurry to me, but if it says 47 on top and 50v on bottom then it is a 47uF, 50V aluminum electrolytic capacitor.

So I believe you found a replacement (could scavenge for other boards to act as donors as well).

Just check if the physical size matches, although it does not matter if it is a bit different but then it is harder to solder.

I personally find capacitors that come in this kind of SMD package more difficult to solder than others, as the terminals are for the most part under the case. Even when soldering brand new caps on a brand new PCB, with flux and good soldering station.

Edit: Forgot to say the missing C28 is most likely identical to C27 near it, as they both are bulk capacitors for VDD +5 digital power supply pins for the AD1848.

So as long as the remains of the missing capacitor do not cause a short circuit, I bet it does not bother the operation of the sound card much. At least you can test if it otherwise works as intended.

Jepael wrote:

Edit: Forgot to say the missing C28 is most likely identical to C27 near it, as they both are bulk capacitors for VDD +5 digital power supply pins for the AD1848.

So as long as the remains of the missing capacitor do not cause a short circuit, I bet it does not bother the operation of the sound card much. At least you can test if it otherwise works as intended.

You're correct in that it doesn't seem to bother the card at all, it works fine as far as I can tell. It's me that's bothered, knowing I'm using broken hardware.

Could you please explain a little more what "VDD +5 digital power supply pins for the AD1848" means? Why was that cap there if it wasn't required for the card to work?

Thanks very much for your help.

TwOne wrote:

Replacing a cap isn't all that hard. Just find the correct cap, and solder it.

That comment is as useful as telling an alcoholic to "just stop drinking." 🤣

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

TwOne wrote:

Replacing a cap isn't all that hard. Just find the correct cap, and solder it.

That comment is as useful as telling an alcoholic to "just stop drinking." 🤣

Yes I just took a deep breath and let that one go 😒

badmojo wrote:

You're correct in that it doesn't seem to bother the card at all, it works fine as far as I can tell. It's me that's bothered, knowing I'm using broken hardware.

Could you please explain a little more what "VDD +5 digital power supply pins for the AD1848" means? Why was that cap there if it wasn't required for the card to work?

Good question, and I don't think there is a single answer.

The Analog Devices audio codec has separate power supply pin groups for sensitive analog circuitry and digital circuitry. The two big electrolytic capacitors are far more than what is suggested in the datasheet as recommended capacitance for digital circuitry supply, but also electrolytic capacitors are a bit worse suppressing high frequency spikes than the recommended ceramic capacitors, so basically you need bigger electrolytics to match for the ceramics. If it were the only bulk capacitor for digital power of the AD1848, it might not even work, or if it were the only bulk capacitor for analog power, you might hear increased noise or it might not work.

Now why there are two overly large capacitors there, I don't know. Usually two smaller capacitors in parallel is better than one large, so maybe that's why there are two. Maybe the capacitors were initially smaller, but someone noticed the design has few of these and few of those capacitors, and asked if they just use one single type of 47uF/50V electrolytic capacitor for everything as it is easier and cheaper to manage.

Many times you just see empty slots when a part is not necessary and it is just left out. Sometimes somebody just comes up with a random guess for big enough capacitor and that's it then, there is very little point to waste time in doing complex calculations or measurements what is the minimum capacitor it still works with when you have better things to do.

So basically, it's not that broken, and is not degraded much, and is not going to break more if you keep using it. I still suggest replacing the capacitor, for peace of mind and resell value.

I guess that 47 means uF47 or 47 micro farrad.. 50v means 50 volts max it can handle.. (its just the max voltage de capacitor can handle.)

This capacitor is indeed a SMD one..(Surface-mounted device). What i can tell that soldering SMD is a little bit harder then soldering old type through hole.

When soldering.. The black side on the capacitor is NEGATIVE... So the normale side needs to soldered to the + (plus) side.. Black side needs to soldering on the negative..

If you cant soldering this by your self, maybe its a good idea to find someone who can soldering SMD..

Try to find here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=smd+elec … uf+50v&_sacat=0

Jepael wrote:

Good question, and I don't think there is a single answer.

...

So basically, it's not that broken, and is not degraded much, and is not going to break more if you keep using it. I still suggest replacing the capacitor, for peace of mind and resell value.

I won't pretend to understand all of your post but I very much appreciate you taking the time to write it! I'll take your advice and replace it, thanks again.

If you just want something there to reinforce the original functionality of the card then get a regular, radial cap with leads, put it on its side and solder the legs to the pads. If you're worried about shorts then just put some vinyl tape over any traces which will be under the legs. A little Panasonic FM or FC from digikey is a good cantidate.

If you have any other broken hardware around I recommend practicing on it. Remove the broken cap, make sure each solder pad has a bit of solder on it, stick the new one in place and reflow the solder on the pad.

I've looked through my entire stash of hardware and can't find a single cap with this rating - it had to be the rare one that was busted off. I'll hit up the local electronics store and see what they can do - from what I understand, I just need to replace it with a cap that has the same uf rating, and that can handle at least the same voltage, i.e, I could replace it with a uf47, 100v cap and it would be OK (despite the original cap being rated for 50v.

Is that correct?

I would not bother using a SMD cap, I would just get a regular leaded and solder them on the pads.
They are much easier to find and install.

There are two techniques to go about it.
One to have a straight cap and the other one will have the cap on its side.

Here is an example from Console5. Not exactly the technique I use.

Here is one that I did on a motherboard.

MaxWar wrote:

I would not bother using a SMD cap, I would just get a regular leaded and solder them on the pads. They are much easier to find […]
Show full quote

I would not bother using a SMD cap, I would just get a regular leaded and solder them on the pads.
They are much easier to find and install.

There are two techniques to go about it.
One to have a straight cap and the other one will have the cap on its side.

Nice one thanks for that MaxWar, I'll let you know how I go.

Capacitors aren't the most reliable so it is one component I don't recommend scavenging if you can help it.
Check the electronic store and if not you may need to order online. The only issue with using higher voltage parts is they may be physically too big

Keep in mind that the capacitor is sitting on 5V supply nodes. If you can't find a matching 50V cap, you also don't need to put a 100V cap there, 10V would do it.

Jepael wrote:

Keep in mind that the capacitor is sitting on 5V supply nodes. If you can't find a matching 50V cap, you also don't need to put a 100V cap there, 10V would do it.

I've used a 63V cap, no good? My understanding was that higher was OK, lower is not OK.

^ it's fine , the only concern is how it looks 😉

I decided to replace both caps in that area, just in case the other one had been knocked about too. These larger caps look a bit shit, but the card still works and I feel better now! There's a nasty pop when the software initialises it though - is that to be expected with a Soundscape?