VOGONS


Reply 22660 of 23690, by bjwil1991

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I fixed up the Aztech Sound Galaxy NX Pro non-16 that had 2 broken off mounting screws for the gamepad/joystick and replaced them with the ones from a dead video card. I also re-bent the bracket to make it more straight and not crooked.

Discord: https://discord.gg/U5dJw7x
Systems from the Compaq Portable 1 to Ryzen 5 2600X
Twitch: https://twitch.tv/retropcuser

Reply 22661 of 23690, by Cosmic

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Romain wrote on 2022-09-13, 06:50:

Yup, if possible with your motherboard, adjust the voltage to 2.1/2.3v to have a stable front side bus 100 Mhz frequency with this cheap lovely CPU.
Below 2.1v, it's not stable.

Good advice, thanks! I just checked and it's pulling 2.03v in the BIOS, that's probably the issue. Unfortunately no way to adjust voltage in the BIOS or on this slotket, but I'm on the lookout for another slotket anyways, so I'll give it a try when I have one that I can configure Vcore on. :)

Reply 22663 of 23690, by Radical Vision

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Installed Quake III with all maps, it runs great on the VV as expected... Will see how games will work once, i freeze the card remove the stock coolers, and install Titan copper coolers. And then will try max OC of the card, so far it is stable at 180MHz, will try 190 and 200MHz to see how far the card can go. But anyway i dont think i will use the card on 200Mhz, even if it can, as i dont want to brake one of the best collector`s parts, so 190MHz will be nice, but to change the coolers ofc.. I wonder other ppl that did replace the stock coolers or Voodoo V, how much did specially the Titan Coolers improve the cooling of the card. I think optimal cooling will be Zalman VF700, but i have only 1, so yeah i need second one in order to cool the second chip too.

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Mah systems retro, old, newer (Radical stuff)
W3680 4.5/ GA-x58 UD7/ R9 280x
K7 2.6/ NF7-S/ HD3850
IBM x2 P3 933/ GA-6VXD7/ Voodoo V 5.5K
Cmq P2 450/ GA-BX2000/ V2 SLI
IBM PC365
Cmq DeskPRO 486/33
IBM PS/2 Model 56
SPS IntelleXT 8088

Reply 22664 of 23690, by Veeb0rg

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Tinkered with my BBS setup some more. Think I have the dialup part working but finding someone to test with is difficult. Got the notification that my Mouser order finally shipped and my new Desolder pump *not really retro but used to fix em* arrives tomorrow!

Reply 22665 of 23690, by audiocrush

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I finished the second youtube video on my new channel that will hopefully feature many different soundcards, playing tracker modules to showcase their sound quality. Not by running scientific benchmarks but just listening to music.
You know, like these crackles, frequency instability, pops when changing instrument channels and stuff like that.
I'd be happy about your opinions and some feedback 😀
https://youtu.be/ck03yUz0-Ac

https://www.nerdsh.org/ - my blog, a bit neglected though
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChsU6woi3lhLhtT_ILbSCCw - Some videos of mine

Reply 22666 of 23690, by gmaverick2k

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tinkering with custom resolutions in windows xp with the goal of setting high refresh rate @ 1600x1200. got it to 120hz via displayport, so success?

"What's all this racket going on up here, son? You watchin' yer girl cartoons again?"

Reply 22667 of 23690, by Babasha

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VIA MVP4 based motherboard setup/recovery/cleaning.
Nice office-board in my 1999/2000 history - Rollcage, Quake, Starcraft!

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Need help? Begin with photo and model of your hardware 😉

Reply 22668 of 23690, by PD2JK

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Commodore 386SX-16 took a vinegar bath. It had some nasty battery goo. Yes, it got revived! Two long beeps + three short beeps. I think it needs a battery.

I will make some good pictures and BIOS dumps in the near future for Ultimate Retro / The Retro Web.

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Last edited by PD2JK on 2022-09-15, 20:08. Edited 1 time in total.

i386 16 / AMD DX2-66 / Pentium MMX 200 / BP6 Dual Celeron 433 / Athlon Orion 700 + TB 1000 / PIII-S 1400 / AthlonXP 1700+ / Opteron 165

Reply 22669 of 23690, by PTherapist

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Last week I attempted to replace the battery in the Timekeeper chip on my Philips CD-I 210/25. It wasn't really bothering me, but thought I'd give it a go. I was being very careful, chiseling away at the chip whilst still soldered into the board and the inevitable happened - I slipped and hit the motherboard! Ended up severing 4 traces on the motherboard, my Philips CD-I was dead!!! Not easy traces to repair either as they are quite small and close together.

Fast forward to today, I suddenly felt confident and decided to have a go at running some jumper wires to bypass the 4 damaged traces. Bare in mind I've NEVER tried this before in my life and had only watched hours of YouTube videos on the subject, never attempting it myself.

I spent hours following the damaged traces either side, to find out where they all went and scratched off some of the solder mask either side of the breaks for continuity testing with my multimeter. 1 of the traces went directly to 1 of the chips. I fed the jumper wires through and then on the underside of the motherboard I scratched away a bit of the solder mask, applied some flux and then soldered the cables into place. For the 1 wire going to the chip, I decided to simply solder it onto the leg of the chip and add some hot glue to stop it flexing.

I also added some clear nail varnish to seal the damaged and exposed traces.

First power on and it lives again!

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And a picture of my handy work, not the neatest job in the world, but it works. I'm quite pleased with myself for the first ever attempt at this kind of work!

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I think I'll leave the timekeeper chip in it's present state, not going to tempt fate. 🤣

Reply 22670 of 23690, by PD2JK

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I always like these stories with a happy ending, good job!

i386 16 / AMD DX2-66 / Pentium MMX 200 / BP6 Dual Celeron 433 / Athlon Orion 700 + TB 1000 / PIII-S 1400 / AthlonXP 1700+ / Opteron 165

Reply 22671 of 23690, by rkurbatov

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Bought this old floppy drive for less than $1. They are pretty rare and expensive in Ukraine now - can cost $30 and $40 being in same state, no guarantee to work.

I cleaned it, greased the motor spindle, removed the rust from the top cover (mostly damaged) and painted, retrobrighted the front panel. I tried a car wax on plastic parts, interesting, if it helps to protect from repeating yellowing.

Not the perfect restoration, that required full disassembly - that's elaborate and risky process. But much better than it was.

I cannot imagine retro system without floppy drive, hard drive and CRT display - they create that special feeling and mood. And 5.25 floppies are the most 'real' ones. I almost missed them, I had a pack of such floppies in childhood to store some games but my first PC already had a 3.5 inch drive.

What else... Washed boards for my next build, painted the case. Will finish my 386 build this weekend I hope.

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Last edited by rkurbatov on 2022-09-15, 22:09. Edited 1 time in total.

486: ECS UM486 VLB, 256kb cache, i486 DX2/66, 8MB RAM, Trident TGUI9440AGi VLB 1MB, Pro Audio Spectrum 16, FDD 3.5, ZIP 100 ATA
PII: Asus P2B, Pentium II 400MHz, 512MB RAM, Trident 9750 AGP 4MB, Voodoo2 SLI, MonsterSound MX300

Reply 22672 of 23690, by rkurbatov

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PD2JK wrote on 2022-09-15, 16:53:

Commodore 386SX-16 took a vinegar bath. It had some nasty battery goo. Yes, it got revived! Two long beeps + three short beeps. I think it needs a battery.

Commodore 386 sounds like a Heresy.

486: ECS UM486 VLB, 256kb cache, i486 DX2/66, 8MB RAM, Trident TGUI9440AGi VLB 1MB, Pro Audio Spectrum 16, FDD 3.5, ZIP 100 ATA
PII: Asus P2B, Pentium II 400MHz, 512MB RAM, Trident 9750 AGP 4MB, Voodoo2 SLI, MonsterSound MX300

Reply 22673 of 23690, by Shponglefan

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rkurbatov wrote on 2022-09-15, 21:36:

I cleaned it, greased the motor spindle, removed the rust from the top cover (mostly damaged) and painted, retrobrighted the front panel. I tried a car wax on plastic parts, interesting, if it helps to protect from repeating yellowing.

Nice work! From the perspective of the faceplate, it looks almost brand new.

Tandy 1000 TL build
286 Epson build
Ultimate Windows XP build

Reply 22674 of 23690, by rkurbatov

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Shponglefan wrote on 2022-09-15, 22:10:

Nice work! From the perspective of the faceplate, it looks almost brand new.

Thanks. Just found the same model, in much better shape - something like $55. Still requires brightening of the front panel (that adds very much to overall look as it's the only part we see tbh) and nobody knows if it works 😀

Need to take a box of floppies while they are available 😀

486: ECS UM486 VLB, 256kb cache, i486 DX2/66, 8MB RAM, Trident TGUI9440AGi VLB 1MB, Pro Audio Spectrum 16, FDD 3.5, ZIP 100 ATA
PII: Asus P2B, Pentium II 400MHz, 512MB RAM, Trident 9750 AGP 4MB, Voodoo2 SLI, MonsterSound MX300

Reply 22676 of 23690, by RiverBoa

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I've been tinkering with a pair of Toshiba Libretto 70CTs. One needed a new CMOS battery which is a harrowing adventure. The plastic clips are brittle enough that they break with little pressure. You have to use a small spudger and pray, then be very careful with reassembly to not crack parts of the frame around the other clips. But success! I shouldn't have to worry about losing time for another 20 years...

But there are sufficient restore materials online to bring back to original. It's surprisingly capable and plays OPL3 sound in DOS and Windows. It just doesn't have a volume switch, so it has to be done in Windows or by TSR in DOS.

Reply 22677 of 23690, by bjwil1991

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Got the Aztech Sound Galaxy NX Pro non-16 installed in my 386 PCS machine that has a couple of mods: "stereo" out for a single PC speaker and soldering a broken PC speaker cable to the card (red wire) and connecting the header to the motherboard.

I tested the card and I get all of the sound from the single speaker and the PC speaker portion works as well.

Discord: https://discord.gg/U5dJw7x
Systems from the Compaq Portable 1 to Ryzen 5 2600X
Twitch: https://twitch.tv/retropcuser

Reply 22678 of 23690, by PD2JK

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rkurbatov wrote on 2022-09-15, 22:03:
PD2JK wrote on 2022-09-15, 16:53:

Commodore 386SX-16 took a vinegar bath. It had some nasty battery goo. Yes, it got revived! Two long beeps + three short beeps. I think it needs a battery.

Commodore 386 sounds like a Heresy.

Agreed. Like the folks at Commodore didn't know what to do after the 64 / 128 😉

i386 16 / AMD DX2-66 / Pentium MMX 200 / BP6 Dual Celeron 433 / Athlon Orion 700 + TB 1000 / PIII-S 1400 / AthlonXP 1700+ / Opteron 165

Reply 22679 of 23690, by Meatball

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While building this Core2 XP x64 machine, the Socket 775 compatible cooler did not fit; peg holes didn't align, and the plastic mounting mechanism was too wide thanks to the surrounding heatsinks. A few minutes with a Dremel solved the problems.

Next, this GX300 was not booting. Long story short, I pulled the motherboard out of the case, and it booted fine; there must have been a short or something. The BIOS update to A10 now makes it possible to add 256Mb-chip capacity RIMM modules. In keeping with its workstation roots, I upgraded:

CPU: PIII 733/133 x2 --> 1GHz/133 x2
RAM: 512MB --> 1024MB ECC
GPU: Nvidia TNT M64 16MB --> ELSA GLoria III (NVidia Quadro 2 Pro 64MB)

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***->WINNER, 1ST PLACE<-***
2022 #QUAKE3totheMAX -560.5fps-
Brain Drain Retro LAN https://discord.com/channels/799008837918261328
Windows ME
NForce2 A7N8X-E DLX
Athlon 848/154MHz
DDR@411MHz (2-3-3-3)
GeForce 256 DDR@144/344MHz
ESS Maestr0-1