PTherapist wrote on 2024-03-21, 17:18:

I bought a spare Sega Mega Drive recently for the purposes of region modding it, as I didn't want to butcher my childhood original console. So today I set about performing the mod using 2 switches.

The hardest part was soldering the switches. I made 1 small wiring mistake on the right hand switch and what should have been a simple case of desoldering and swapping around the wires, ended up damaging the switch by accidentally melting the plastic instead. Luckily I had a bunch of spare switches, so no big deal just frustrating.

All in all it turned out well and I can now switch between 50Hz/60Hz and English/Japanese.

Haven't seen anybody doing switches instead of the now trendy switchless mod in a long time! (those reset button switchless mods always were finicky for me)
You can actually get away with just one switch because the two switches add an impossible region of 50Hz Jap and. I've perfected my switched region mod for the Sega MD/Genesis by using a single slide switch soldered to the ground plane.

Rehoused the Socket 370 build into a new chassis. Always preferred the desktop aesthetic to a tower but it's all subjective of course.

Only issue being, I can't use the front panel USB ports (hidden under the flap) at this point because the board uses a funky USB front panel header with ten pins.

I can't remember the pinout of the standard USB without checking, but I'm not sure I'll even be able to re-wire the head to make it work.

Dan386DX wrote on 2024-03-22, 20:39:

Rehoused the Socket 370 build into a new chassis. Always preferred the desktop aesthetic to a tower but it's all subjective of course.

I've always preferred the desktop aesthetic (especially since I'm tall - saves on monitor stands), but the simple truth is that with LCD monitors, they're just infinitely less practical

New "thing I want":

* The CM5 carrier to be a short ATX-compatible, like Via's Neo-ITX.

* A simple NVMe adapter for whatever PCIe connection it comes with.

* A beige desktop PC case with full width/height - but only about 10-15cm deep. Actually, make it 18cm - just enough space for half-length slot cards.

* A beige IPS monitor with matching visuals. Bonus for 3:2.

As long as RPi does the first one (they won't, but I keep asking) then the rest I could find/make myself. But yeah - full ARM desktop in the depth of an LCD monitor stand would work for me.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-21, 13:06:

Have you seen the threads like this one for more info? Is it possible to mount a small Baby AT motherboard in a mATX case? […]
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GuillermoXT wrote on 2024-03-21, 11:39:

I've asked in another thread but I hope to find more users who already made some experience:
since the micro ATX standard is 244mm x 244mm would (for example) the PcChips M326 with 220mm height x 170mm fit in an mAtx case (or even some ITX cases) if a custom IO shield is made for the AT Keyboard connector ? Maybe some new screw holes are necessary to align the board on the top left of the case.
And if that's the case, could I also use riser cables to use the additional slots that were actually intended for modern triple slot graphics cards?

Have you seen the threads like this one for more info? Is it possible to mount a small Baby AT motherboard in a mATX case?

I am thinking that trying to plug a PCIe graphics riser into an ISA slot isn't going to get you very far though. Some of the brackets you can buy for holding the cards might be adaptable but the cable, no.

So usually you'll only get the last 4 slots lined up. If you get a very flat right angle riser, you might be able to line up another from the 5th slot into the backplate hole.

https://geizhals.de/inter-tech-im-1-pocket-88 … hloc=at&hloc=de

I was thinking about a case like this one so if there exist some DIY ISA pcbs with matching cables we could at least install up to 6 cards. Can this be realized?

GuillermoXT wrote on 2024-03-22, 21:54:

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-21, 13:06:

Have you seen the threads like this one for more info? Is it possible to mount a small Baby AT motherboard in a mATX case? […]
Show full quote

GuillermoXT wrote on 2024-03-21, 11:39:

I've asked in another thread but I hope to find more users who already made some experience:
since the micro ATX standard is 244mm x 244mm would (for example) the PcChips M326 with 220mm height x 170mm fit in an mAtx case (or even some ITX cases) if a custom IO shield is made for the AT Keyboard connector ? Maybe some new screw holes are necessary to align the board on the top left of the case.
And if that's the case, could I also use riser cables to use the additional slots that were actually intended for modern triple slot graphics cards?

Have you seen the threads like this one for more info? Is it possible to mount a small Baby AT motherboard in a mATX case?

I am thinking that trying to plug a PCIe graphics riser into an ISA slot isn't going to get you very far though. Some of the brackets you can buy for holding the cards might be adaptable but the cable, no.

So usually you'll only get the last 4 slots lined up. If you get a very flat right angle riser, you might be able to line up another from the 5th slot into the backplate hole.

https://geizhals.de/inter-tech-im-1-pocket-88 … hloc=at&hloc=de

I was thinking about a case like this one so if there exist some DIY ISA pcbs with matching cables we could at least install up to 6 cards. Can this be realized?

There is some discussion on ISA extensions and such here which should be helpful, Short on ISA slots? Try this. but I don't think there is anything "off the shelf" unless you pay several hundreds to industrial PC specialists.

So reordering some RAM, to be used on the MB that gradually 🖐 I will try, I made a certain order, trying to separate them by speed, so PC66 PC100 PC133 etc..., things are simple when there is a label 🏷, with written what it is, then in any case you could try them one by one, and read from a diagnostic the features, but this would be long and boring .

So the simplest solution is to take one of higher capacity, replace it on the MB, and recover the working one of lower capacity.

In this regard, I found one that in the QDI TX gives problems, that is, it works but sometimes beeps, a sign that it is not fully functional, so there is something wrong !!!

The module is 64 MB PC100, maybe it is quite common, and so it could easily be replaced with another similar module, but it took me very little time ⏱ to understand the problem, it is a component welded incorrectly, perhaps by welding with hot air it has moved, creating this operating problem, which can be solved, unsoldering and resoldering it properly.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-03-23, 08:45:

So reordering some RAM, to be used on the MB that gradually 🖐 I will try, I made a certain order, trying to separate them by speed, so PC66 PC100 PC133 etc..., things are simple when there is a label 🏷, with written what it is, then in any case you could try them one by one, and read from a diagnostic the features, but this would be long and boring .

I put custom labels on all of my equipment, including memory, so that I know exactly what is is. I often include other things, like memory size, timings, etc., so that all of the important information is available at a glance.

I have been searching nice cooler for my Slot 1 Tualatin project. It's actually not that easy to get cheap slightly beefier 370 cooler.
Then MB+CPU+Memory combo popped up on local auction site with nice CPU cooler. Fortunately no one cares about 370 Celeron CPU-s with 66mhz FSB and no AGP slot so I managed to get full set for aprox ONE Cuba Libre Cocktail price in the pub. It is working!! I have to admit ATI Rage Pro 8MB AGP + Yamaha ymf740c-v PCI onboard audio is rather nice late DOS early Win 9x setup. YMF is implemented using PC-PCI wiring so no issues with compatibility. 75Mhz FSB was stable with onboard VGA and Sound. With 83Mhz system posted but doom/quake crashed. I guess unholy 666 Mhz CPU speed is issue here. 😉 Haven't played with Win 9.x yet.
Also setmul is able to disable both L1 and L2 caches so it can be turned into slow 386.

Irony is that my main attraction CPU cooler is awfully noisy even with leftover Noctua resistor cable I had laying around . I need to replace original intel fan with modern one.

Kahenraz wrote on 2024-03-23, 09:07:

PC@LIVE wrote on 2024-03-23, 08:45:

So reordering some RAM, to be used on the MB that gradually 🖐 I will try, I made a certain order, trying to separate them by speed, so PC66 PC100 PC133 etc..., things are simple when there is a label 🏷, with written what it is, then in any case you could try them one by one, and read from a diagnostic the features, but this would be long and boring .

I put custom labels on all of my equipment, including memory, so that I know exactly what is is. I often include other things, like memory size, timings, etc., so that all of the important information is available at a glance.

Yes ok, thank you very much for the suggestion, unfortunately I can't label all my HW, it takes too much time, but I'm slowly creating an archive, using a spreadsheet, so as to know what components each PC uses, and possibly be able to exchange them or upgrade, in order to get a better configuration.

Dan386DX wrote on 2024-03-22, 20:39:

Rehoused the Socket 370 build into a new chassis. Always preferred the desktop aesthetic to a tower but it's all subjective of course.

Only issue being, I can't use the front panel USB ports (hidden under the flap) at this point because the board uses a funky USB front panel header with ten pins.

I can't remember the pinout of the standard USB without checking, but I'm not sure I'll even be able to re-wire the head to make it work.

Nice looking case! It should be possible to re-pin any USB header to any USB front panel. Each port is always 4 pins, +5V, Data+, Data-, and Ground. If there are 5 pins then it's usually an extra ground and isn't technically needed. A depinning tool helps with getting the pins out of the connector so they can be rewired, often without any soldering needed.

There are also a handful of PCI USB 2.0 cards with an extra internal port (can be converted to a header by soldering or with a passive adapter) or with a ready-to-use onboard header, which can make front panel ports a piece of cake to hook up.

vutt wrote on 2024-03-23, 14:56:

I have been searching nice cooler for my Slot 1 Tualatin project. It's actually not that easy to get cheap slightly beefier 370 […]
Show full quote

I have been searching nice cooler for my Slot 1 Tualatin project. It's actually not that easy to get cheap slightly beefier 370 cooler.
Then MB+CPU+Memory combo popped up on local auction site with nice CPU cooler. Fortunately no one cares about 370 Celeron CPU-s with 66mhz FSB and no AGP slot so I managed to get full set for aprox ONE Cuba Libre Cocktail price in the pub. It is working!! I have to admit ATI Rage Pro 8MB AGP + Yamaha ymf740c-v PCI onboard audio is rather nice late DOS early Win 9x setup. YMF is implemented using PC-PCI wiring so no issues with compatibility. 75Mhz FSB was stable with onboard VGA and Sound. With 83Mhz system posted but doom/quake crashed. I guess unholy 666 Mhz CPU speed is issue here. 😉 Haven't played with Win 9.x yet.
Also setmul is able to disable both L1 and L2 caches so it can be turned into slow 386.

Irony is that my main attraction CPU cooler is awfully noisy even with leftover Noctua resistor cable I had laying around . I need to replace original intel fan with modern one.

I love the look of those Intel S370 coolers too, bummer it's so noisy. Maybe it would be worth opening it up and relubricating it?

Here's a good video by Necroware on doing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb3L3B4bUcA

Yesterday i socketed an WDXT-150 XT ide controller, so the rom can be removed from now on.

Cosmic wrote on 2024-03-23, 16:18:

Dan386DX wrote on 2024-03-22, 20:39:

Rehoused the Socket 370 build into a new chassis. Always preferred the desktop aesthetic to a tower but it's all subjective of course.

Only issue being, I can't use the front panel USB ports (hidden under the flap) at this point because the board uses a funky USB front panel header with ten pins.

I can't remember the pinout of the standard USB without checking, but I'm not sure I'll even be able to re-wire the head to make it work.

Nice looking case! It should be possible to re-pin any USB header to any USB front panel. Each port is always 4 pins, +5V, Data+, Data-, and Ground. If there are 5 pins then it's usually an extra ground and isn't technically needed. A depinning tool helps with getting the pins out of the connector so they can be rewired, often without any soldering needed.

There are also a handful of PCI USB 2.0 cards with an extra internal port (can be converted to a header by soldering or with a passive adapter) or with a ready-to-use onboard header, which can make front panel ports a piece of cake to hook up.

Thank you very much for the info. As it happens, last night I re-pinned the front panel connector to match the pinout of the weird USB header on the board. It was partially successful…the front USB ports now semi work, Windows will detect when I connect something but every device is reported as unrecognised, even the basic USB keyboard that works just fine in the rear motherboard USB port.

I am assuming this is because the connector I re-pinned only had two ground wires and the header called for four of them? Or I guess I might have the data cables back to front. Not sure, but frustratingly close without actually making it work 🤣

I wanted to see under the microscope, the RAM with problems, from a quick observation, I found an SMD out of place, or rather welded incorrectly, from the images under the microscope, you can see very well that one side is disconnected, and that the component is rotated about 90 degrees, also it could connect a couple of pins of the memory chip.

If I can tomorrow, or in the next few days, I could put it back in place, and at that point, the problem should be solved, the desk will work again (most likely).

I've had no complaints with this motherboard since I recapped it - I bought a Tualatin 1266 from the Ebay vendor that mods them, and it has easily overclocked to nearly 1.4 GHz. But the northbridge heatsink was gone when I got it, and it looked better in the photos I saw with it installed. I bought a bag of these heatsinks from a vendor on Amazon, along with a roll (lifetime supply!) of double sided thermal tape, and I finally got around to installing it today. It doesn't have the Soyo logo on it, but this is close enough. I have it out because I had my P4P 800 in my Lian Li PC50 case and I decided that this board would be more appropriate in it. Bonus: when I removed the P4P 800, I spotted a failing capacitor, so now I'll have to recap that board!

Although a correct stock look for the era, I don't like having those sinks on anything I'm taking further than 100fsb... because they are as effective as a random scrap of tinfoil... when vendors put them on with thicker pads, some said they insulated more than they sunk. So I go for something at least three times the height... that actually has fin area.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-24, 00:35:

Although a correct stock look for the era, I don't like having those sinks on anything I'm taking further than 100fsb... because they are as effective as a random scrap of tinfoil... when vendors put them on with thicker pads, some said they insulated more than they sunk. So I go for something at least three times the height... that actually has fin area.

It was working fine at 140+ FSB bare, I did it mostly for looks. It has onboard video, which is incorporated into the northbridge in this chipset - I wonder if its mostly necessary if you are using the onboard VGA?

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-03-24, 00:35:

Although a correct stock look for the era, I don't like having those sinks on anything I'm taking further than 100fsb... because they are as effective as a random scrap of tinfoil... when vendors put them on with thicker pads, some said they insulated more than they sunk. So I go for something at least three times the height... that actually has fin area.

Those style heatsinks were definitely for looks. And to hide the chipset on non-intel chipset boards.

You also saw those "for show" heatsinks on low end video cards that did not need heatsinks. Like SIS based cards or low end ATI Rage type cards.

Despite silly look its definitely not for show, its good for about 2-3W.

Fixed this A7V8X Rev 2.0... again.

First off, I gotta thank @Robert B for his socket swapping technique. I have mastered it enough to be able to swap 462 sockets without needing to go through the painful process of desoldering.

Now, onto the board. This A7V8X was saved last year from the school near my apartment. The PC it was in was in rough shape... and so was the board.

I had managed to first swap a working socket plastic from a dead A7V600-X, but that one was way too cheap and didn't last long.

Pictures here is a socket harvested from a dead GA-7VAX... the green socket strikes again, just like @quicknick had on his Soltek 75FRN2-L! It was the only socket that would sit tight when slid on the socket pins from the ASUS.

Stuck a 2000+ in there, OC'd to 2600+, yey. Not sure what would the utility of a KT400 board be (especially when I have an actual Soltek 75FRN2-RL coming through to keep my NF7 some company, 🤣) but given this was quite the iconic board to find here in RO, why not. It's a piece of history, after all. (and at least it has slightly more features than the average A7V8X-X)

Maybe I should take it for a test build sometime and pair it with the free Studioworks CRT I got last week, as well as a nice pair of IBM Infinity speakers.