VOGONS


Reply 17840 of 17884, by Shreddoc

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For the first time in many years, I saw and played on a local arcade cabinet in a local shop.

1-2 years ago I made my own cabinet with high-end Japanese controls. Only now, do I finally have the real-world context to realise how good I've got it at home.

Reply 17841 of 17884, by Ozzuneoj

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Thermalwrong wrote on 2021-01-13, 02:34:
A few weeks back, I bought some non-working VLB graphics cards - one a CL-GD5429 and the other a CL-GD5426 / I/O Combo card. At […]
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A few weeks back, I bought some non-working VLB graphics cards - one a CL-GD5429 and the other a CL-GD5426 / I/O Combo card. At this point I am not short on vesa local bus video cards, these are both novel enough to be worth fixing though.
Both are now working after fitting an EEPROM to each one (1mb eeprom jammed in place of 27c256/27c512), but the 5429 needed some more work - it originally came with a PAL chip to do 'linear addressing', which I still don't fully get what that does. It can have either that or a 74F32 in its place with some caps/resistors switched about.

Sadly I had neither and the UK's in lockdown again so I thought I'd make do with what's around - I never expected I'd find someone with my exact card re-engineered the PAL chip's code and put it up on Github: https://github.com/Tony814/GD5429PALMod

I found a GAL16v8 that could be removed from some useless printer ROM/RAM card (I knew it would be useful someday). Actually I tried 2, but one of them wouldn't write fully, I have bad luck with these PALs. Another one I bought off ebay had bad pins, so I've got 2 good and 2 bad ones 🙁

Flashed the GAL and made this unholy mess to fit it on the card, it works!

Amazing work getting that GAL attached to a completely different shaped socket! I would be terrified of that thing getting bumped and shorting out though. Are you planning to get a properly fitting chip? Or is it less scary in person? 😀

Time Machine = FIC PA-2013 2.1 - K6-2 500 - 256MB PC-100 - TNT2 Pro 16MB AGP - Labway Yamaha YMF719-E - Midiman MM401

Reply 17842 of 17884, by bjwil1991

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They probably make QFP to PDIP converter adapters, but I've only heard of them for the EEPROM programming tool, but how cool would that be if a QFP to PDIP converter adapter can be utilized in older computers?

I got my Pentium Pro 200 system built by swapping the Soyo 486 board with the Tyan S1662S board (can also have dual CPUs by soldering in another VRM slot and Socket 8 slot), 128MB SIMM-72 EDO RAM, 10GB Western Digital HDD, 1.44MB FDD, 1.2MB FDD, and Apple 32x ATAPI IDE CD-ROM drive.

The cards utilized are the VooDoo3 3000 PCI and ES1868 ISA sound card (the Sound Blaster 16 CT2230 doesn't seat all the way and too long of a card since the RAM slots are right next to the ISA slots, but it's not an issue since I have other cards that'll fit in there anyway.

Also MacGyverdd the fan power connector to Molex 4-pin by soldering the red wires with the red wire (5V), black wires with the black wires (GND), and yellow wires with the yellow wire (12V) and using electrical tape to wrap the soldered wires around to prevent the wires from shorting itself.

It lives, but it needs a new Dallas RTC, but it does work without issues.

Thank you, liqmat for everything.

Discord: https://discord.gg/U5dJw7x
Systems from C64 to FX-6300.

Reply 17843 of 17884, by Thermalwrong

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Ozzuneoj wrote on 2021-01-13, 06:46:
Thermalwrong wrote on 2021-01-13, 02:34:

Flashed the GAL and made this unholy mess to fit it on the card, it works!

Amazing work getting that GAL attached to a completely different shaped socket! I would be terrified of that thing getting bumped and shorting out though. Are you planning to get a properly fitting chip? Or is it less scary in person? 😀

I might get a proper PAL16v8, they're only a couple of pounds on ebay. But as an evening project with just what's available at home, I'm pretty happy with it and could continue to use it. It's installed in the PC and should work indefinitely.
This is one of those projects where I think it'll "take just 20 minutes" and the reality is 3 hours and one pin broken off of that unfortunate GAL, with a wire just about hanging on to the stub. 😁

I have one of those PLCC > DIP adapters too - so I could have tested on card with that adapter, but I didn't like the idea of perma-using my only one since it's for the TL866 programmer.

Reply 17844 of 17884, by RetroLizard

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I imagine some people here know more about MIDI then I do.

I'm planning on getting a MIDI device eventually, for connecting a MIDI keyboard up to my old computer, but does it matter which one I get, or will any of them work for that?

Reply 17845 of 17884, by gex85

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The other day I received the Tualatin soler-on adapters from "the Korean guy" on eBay.
I already soldered one of them to a Tualatin Celeron 1400/100 and I have to say, you better have a steady hand, a proper soldering iron and good visual acuity if you intend to do this mod. For me, it all went relatively well, but I noticed that I have to apply more pressure to the PCB on all four sides to avoid any gaps between the CPU and the PCB.
But the mod works really well, so one of my BX systems is now happily running the Tualaron at 1400 MHz 😄
Next up: Modding a SL5XL aka "The King" to build a 133 MHz FSB 440BX-Tualatin machine!

1992 - i486DX2-66 // 1997 - P1-233 MMX // 1998 - P2-350 // 2000 - P3-650 // 2001 - Athlon 1400 // 2003 - Athlon XP 3200+ // 2008 - Xeon E5450 // 2015 - Xeon E3-1240v5

Reply 17846 of 17884, by creepingnet

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Did the first checkup of the P/75's BakingSoda/Superglue repairs, seems to be holding up really well. Added a foam pad to the power board to make sure it stays down as I belive part of the mouse circuit is on there and that was what was making the trackball cut-out. I also added back missing hardware from the M/75 parts box.

The second M/75 shipped and is on it's way, should be here by the weekend. I also have a bid on an Ultralite and eyes on another one just in case that one does not work out. The plan is to have one of each version in my video, and show benchmarks and whatnot on them. I'm also still editing the 4 1/2 hour long footage of me doing the baking soda/superglue repairs on the P/75....that one will be awhile.

~The Creeping Network~
My Website - https://sites.google.com/site/thecreepingnetwork/home
My Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/creepingnet

Reply 17847 of 17884, by PC@LIVE

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In the last few days I did some tests with an ASRock P4VT8 +, some time ago I changed the electrolytic capacitors, and the repair was successful.
Now I have put on a 2.8GHz / FSB800 P4 Prescott CPU, and have tested 2 PoV video cards one FX5500 and one 6800GT.

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AMD 286-16 287-10 4MB HD 45MB VGA 256KB
AMD 386DX-40 Intel 387 8MB HD 81MB VGA 256KB
Cyrix 486DLC-40 IIT387-40 8MB VGA 512KB
AMD 5X86-133 16MB VGA VLB CL5428 2MB and many others
AMD K62+ 550 SOYO 5EMA+ and many others
AST Pentium Pro 200 MHz L2 256KB

Reply 17848 of 17884, by aha2940

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Last weekend I backed up and reinstalled Windows 98 on my Pentium 4 PC, to solve this issue. To nobody's surprise, the issue got solved (damn Windows ME).

Reply 17849 of 17884, by Shreddoc

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RetroLizard wrote on 2021-01-13, 14:45:

I imagine some people here know more about MIDI then I do.

I'm planning on getting a MIDI device eventually, for connecting a MIDI keyboard up to my old computer, but does it matter which one I get, or will any of them work for that?

Question The First: Define "old computer", please.

Reply 17850 of 17884, by ragefury32

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Might be getting a a Thinkpad 240X - thinking of messing with spdtool to reprogram a SODIMM module to report less memory than usual.

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Also, some stuff arrived in Japan for me. Looks like something to drive a train from 2003, and an old Japanese Thinkpad. Fun...

Also tested a USB-PD adapter for the old-school yellow-plug ThinkPads - ran at 20v instead of 16 so not something to use often, but works in a pinch.

Reply 17851 of 17884, by H3nrik V!

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Bruninho wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:45:
SteveC wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:37:
Bruninho wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:28:

Cool! Someone did something similar here on VOGONS before, yours apparently is to be connected from the rear view, the one I saw before was for the front view, I can't recall who and where.

I can't put it on the front and spoil the looks of this! 😀

Haha, I agree! But the one I saw before, was made to look similar to a floppy drive and fit without modding the case. I tried to search the forum for the post, but I had no luck. I can't even remember who did it.

HanJammer? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669790

Please use the "quote" option if asking questions to what I write - it will really up the chances of me noticing 😀

Reply 17852 of 17884, by GigAHerZ

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Used CTCHIP to try to sqeeze out every last bit of my 386DX40 with a M321 motherboard by going through every bit in chipset registries together with datasheet. Unfortunately, there's nothing i can tune up more. Only thing left to try is to maybe put some kind of 85-90MHz crystal in place of 80MHz one. Maybe i get out something from that...

Current results are same as here: Re: Post your 386 Speedsys results here
(Though, i now use MR BIOS, so i need no XT-IDE extension any more)

I also compared this board with MS-3131 board. Unfortunately, i couldn't get it running faster than M321. It was eventually super close (Also used CTCHIP, found MR BIOS for it, etc), but still a bit worse.

"640K ought to be enough for anybody." - And i intend to get every last bit out of it even after loading every damn driver!

Reply 17853 of 17884, by Bruninho

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H3nrik V! wrote on 2021-01-14, 08:58:
Bruninho wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:45:
SteveC wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:37:

I can't put it on the front and spoil the looks of this! 😀

Haha, I agree! But the one I saw before, was made to look similar to a floppy drive and fit without modding the case. I tried to search the forum for the post, but I had no luck. I can't even remember who did it.

HanJammer? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669790

Yes!!! This is the project I was talking about, thanks!

"Design isn't just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works."
JOBS, Steve.

Reply 17854 of 17884, by appiah4

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H3nrik V! wrote on 2021-01-14, 08:58:
Bruninho wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:45:
SteveC wrote on 2021-01-12, 20:37:

I can't put it on the front and spoil the looks of this! 😀

Haha, I agree! But the one I saw before, was made to look similar to a floppy drive and fit without modding the case. I tried to search the forum for the post, but I had no luck. I can't even remember who did it.

HanJammer? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669790

Nice. I wish there was also a 5.25” version of this..

Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 17855 of 17884, by Jed118

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I built a 433 MHz Celeron from spare parts I had - It's actually a pretty decent system for DOS games, played Dune 2 on it, then some Settlers 2 gold.

*edit I also ordered an XTIDE EEPROM chip for my 386 so that it can hopefully see the CF card properly.

I also worked on my 1st gen i7 - got everything sorted out, added a 1TB drive and configured it for my dad to use.

Here's some pics of that build:

z14JJNYh.jpg

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It's the best of what I had lying around, power supply wise.

Also, while redoing my office (retro corner coming soon!!) I found some AT case keys, so I rewired this to work with a key:

NKoT6Lph.jpg

Now the next project is to run CAT6 and make drops and connect everything together. Currently all wifi, with the router 5 ft away from me. Bombardment!

Last edited by Jed118 on 2021-01-15, 01:04. Edited 1 time in total.

Youtube channel- The Kombinator
What's for sale? my eBay!

Reply 17856 of 17884, by Jed118

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GigAHerZ wrote on 2021-01-14, 09:18:
Used CTCHIP to try to sqeeze out every last bit of my 386DX40 with a M321 motherboard by going through every bit in chipset regi […]
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Used CTCHIP to try to sqeeze out every last bit of my 386DX40 with a M321 motherboard by going through every bit in chipset registries together with datasheet. Unfortunately, there's nothing i can tune up more. Only thing left to try is to maybe put some kind of 85-90MHz crystal in place of 80MHz one. Maybe i get out something from that...

Current results are same as here: Re: Post your 386 Speedsys results here
(Though, i now use MR BIOS, so i need no XT-IDE extension any more)

I also compared this board with MS-3131 board. Unfortunately, i couldn't get it running faster than M321. It was eventually super close (Also used CTCHIP, found MR BIOS for it, etc), but still a bit worse.

If you want a spare M321 board, Í've got one with 256k cache. You will need to repair it though. PM me if you want.

Youtube channel- The Kombinator
What's for sale? my eBay!

Reply 17857 of 17884, by pan069

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Got a copy of Myth II Soulblighter the other day. I used to play this back in the late 90's. I loved how well the dark/horror atmosphere was done for this game. Take this intro the the second level, the writing and the superb voice over gives it real haunting feeling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EamUVwgyXT0

Now I have to build the machine to play this on... 😄

Reply 17858 of 17884, by Munx

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Recently I "upgraded" to Windows 10, as Ryzen chipsets no longer support anything else.

This is when I realized that playing Red Alert 2 on it was out of the question - after finally getting the crappy Origin version to run (disc version refuses to run the installer), the performance was just terrible (even with the videobackbuffer fix). With TS-DDraw (which is supposed to resolve everything) the game refuses to even start up.

My solution? Build a new, compact PC, not just for Red Alert 2, but for all of my games, ranging from '99 to around 2004.

The OS? Windows 2000. Very compatible with the games from this period and supports tons of modern-ish hardware.
The hardware? Am3 ECS motherboard (nforce430), 2GB of DDR3-1333 ram, Radeon x1900xt, Athlon II x2 270 3.4GHz, Audigy2 ZS. Also wanted to put an SSD in there, but Win2000 does not like those nforce SATA drivers, so a 200GB IDE drive sufficed.

Ran stuff like the OG version of HL2, NFS:U, Doom3, BF1942 and other games at crazy fast FPS with really nice visual quality. Looked even better on a CRT monitor.

The problem? Red Alert 2 refuses to start. Tried different video drivers. Didn't work. Tried running in 95/98 compatibility mode. Got a "please disable debugger" error. Tried NT4 compatibility mode. Got a "please insert correct CD" error. Just downloaded a crack. Still refused to start. Tried different video drivers. Still nothing.

I'm quite amazed that this thing managed to be even less compatible with RA2 than my new Windows 10 PC, despite all other Windows OSs - 98, xp and even 7 running it perfectly fine.

So I'm at loss here. Guess I should try an nvidia card? The reason I used x1900 is because it's really fast, supposed to be compatible with games from this era and it has really nice visual quality. The only PCIe nvidia cards that I have are 8800 series or newer, which might bring other compatibility issues.

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My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4

Reply 17859 of 17884, by xcomcmdr

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Depending on the hardware, and assuming that you have Windows 7 or later, Red Alert 2 works :
CnCNet/CnC-ddraw
OR
Aqrit's DDRAW

CnCNet/CnC-ddraw contains more recent code than TS-DDRAW, and is a fork of the old hifi/cnc-ddraw.
With it, you can also change between GDI and OpenGL mode, but you should not have to.
I also have to use Windows XP Pro SP2 compatibility mode on top, even if the authors of CncNet/CnC-ddraw are against it.
Otherwise, I just get an error message box (at least on the first start).