VOGONS


Reply 2080 of 27549, by foey

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King_Corduroy wrote:

Kinda retro, I transferred my sleeper PC to the server version of the same case line. Fuckin loving it so far. 🤣

** EPIC CASE

Love that case, used to have the same one as our file server where I worked years back!

This evening I put together a PIII 1Ghz test rig and working my way through AGP 1999-2000 graphics cards...

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😀

Cyrix Instead Build, 6x86 166+ | 32mb SD | 4mb S3 Virge DX | Creative AWE64 | Win95
ATC-S PIII Tualatin Win9x Build :- ATC-S PIII Coppermine Win9x Build Log [WIP] **Photo Heavy**

Reply 2081 of 27549, by markot

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I started yesterday evening cleaning an old PC keyboard that has probably been in some garage use. It has a 8088/80286 switch on the bottom and a big DIN connector. I took it all apart, started by removing the screws from the bottom side. I used an IC extractor tool for removing the keys from the switches, I would say it is the perfect tool for the job. Unfortunately, the up arrow button switch broke a bit. I had to de-solder it, straighten the pins and solder it again. It is quite good now, but I may have to put some epoxy glue to keep the switch in its position. I'm not very goot at soldering, so hope this will work. I will later clean the keys and put it all back together.

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Reply 2082 of 27549, by brostenen

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To clean all the plastic parts (those that are 100% plastic) I normally use hot water, mixed with washing machine soap.
You know. The type wich are like a powder. Just mix water and soap and let the parts soak in it for 2 hours.
You can actually see the mixture just eating away on the dirt, filth and old sweat'N-fat.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 2083 of 27549, by markot

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brostenen wrote:

To clean all the plastic parts (those that are 100% plastic) I normally use hot water, mixed with washing machine soap.
You know. The type wich are like a powder. Just mix water and soap and let the parts soak in it for 2 hours.
You can actually see the mixture just eating away on the dirt, filth and old sweat'N-fat.

Soap and warm waters works well. But I also had to use a sponge. Originally this keyboard has been white, now it's a bit yellowish. I will just wash it and keep it yellowish without trying to get the original color back.

But what I would like to restore are the characters on the keys. Don't know what method would be best. Some black pen or something else?

Reply 2084 of 27549, by brostenen

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markot wrote:
brostenen wrote:

But what I would like to restore are the characters on the keys. Don't know what method would be best. Some black pen or something else?

Some years back (10, maby 15) I saw a kind of stickers somewhere. I actually do not know how good they were.
Black permanent marker should do the job, untill that is worn off too.
The best solution is allways to buy new key's, wich could be somewhat difficult to come by.
Perhaps find someone that can do some laser etching, would be a solution too, as some key's were created like that.

To be honest. I really do not know what the best solution would be.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 2085 of 27549, by retrofanatic

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It was a nice sunny day today for me so I thought some overdue retrobrighting was in order.

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Reply 2086 of 27549, by PeterLI

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Interesting. I never considered retrobright. The yellow does not bother me.

I also find it interesting so many people prefer (mini-)towers. I really prefer desktops. I have not owned a minitower since a HP Brio (Pentium 200) that I sold 2 or 3 years ago. 🤣 Not entirely true: I did buy and donate / sell some other mini towers but I kept those for only a few weeks only.

HP Brios are usually overlooked and really cheap. One example: http://cgi.ebay.com/331502587589. I think I bought mine for < $50 with shipping at the time.

Reply 2087 of 27549, by alexanrs

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I've been trying to do something different today and yesterday. My 8088's EPROM socket seems to be only useful to store a 32kb BIOS (and is picky about the EPROM - a pin-compatible EEPROM I have doesn't play nice with it), so my best bet at trying to get the XT-IDE firmware on this thing is a network card. While I try sourcing a good 8-bit ISA NIC with a socket, I thought I might try to make something like a bootable floppy that loads the firmware to the top of the conventional memory, reduces the amount of conventional memory reported to the system, executes the firmware and uses int 19h to restart the booting process.
First thing I did is read this page (and the previous and later lessons of that chapter) and use that simple bootloader as a basis for mine. I modified it to load IDE_XT.BIN rather than LOADER.BIN, changed it to load the firmware to the top of the conventional memory (memory segment to load the firmware to is ([0000:0413h] - IMAGE_SIZE_KB) << 6), where [0000:0413h] is where the BIOS stores the amount of conventional memory detected on the computer), decrement the memory counter, do a far call to segment:0003h and then call int 19h. Since I do not have access to the machine today, I'm doing everything in PCEm (generic XT machine), and it loads the ROM and even shows the boot menu, but crashes while detecting the drives - even though I know the ROM works fine in PCEm. Does anyone have tips on how to debug this?

Reply 2088 of 27549, by Skyscraper

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Im trying to figure out why my Asus PVI-486SP3 board wont run Quake 1.06

Trying to run Quake 1.06 in DOS 6.22 always results in a page fault.

I have tried switching all hardware, CPUs (Intel DX2-66, Intel DX4-100 and AMD DX4-120), memory (lots of different FPM) and video cards (ISA, PCI and VLB cards). I have also tried with and without memory managers and with different BIOS settings but the result is always the same.

I think I have finally given up, its not like this system will be running Quake anyhow and everything else runs fine. The same Quake installation works fine using my Lucky Star LS486E board. The only thing left to test is using another HDD as the Asus board dosnt identify my 2.5GB test drive correctly but that will have to wait.

New PC: i9 12900K @5GHz all cores @1.2v. MSI PRO Z690-A. 32GB DDR4 3600 CL14. 3070Ti.
Old PC: Dual Xeon X5690@4.6GHz, EVGA SR-2, 48GB DDR3R@2000MHz, Intel X25-M. GTX 980ti.
Older PC: K6-3+ 400@600MHz, PC-Chips M577, 256MB SDRAM, AWE64, Voodoo Banshee.

Reply 2089 of 27549, by boxpressed

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Finally upgraded my GUS Classic to 1MB RAM (from stock 256K) yesterday. I waited so long because I didn't want to pay more than $20. Now I'm trying to figure out which games needed more than 256K for the native GUS music.

Reply 2090 of 27549, by Artex

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Fired up my brand new Yamaha MU-10 today, connecting it to my Windows 10 box to listen to some music. And WOW - I must say that while this thing does awesome at playing back General Midi tunes (I have a DB50XG so I knew it would), once I fired up a few XG midis I was completely blown away. What an awesome little sound module when it comes to the native XG format too! Now I've spent the better part of my morning hunting down XG music... time well spent! 😀

My Retro B:\ytes YouTube Channel & Retro Collection
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Reply 2092 of 27549, by Artex

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philscomputerlab wrote:

Artex, could you please zip them up and post them here?

See here Phil: Bought these (retro) hardware today

My Retro B:\ytes YouTube Channel & Retro Collection
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Reply 2093 of 27549, by Robin4

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I was busy on the parts i collected for my windows 98 se machine.. The nice thing on that is that my plans on that (and maybe other systems) had to change..
Motherboard works fine, although i have to replace a SATA connector on that motherboard that is bad.. (i guess someone though this is already on old system, so let we just pull the sata cables out..
Now i can solder a new one in.. Also had bad luck on a geforce 4 TI 4600 128MB from chaintech.. Previous owner didnt treath it very well.. It dont want give a signal to DVI or VGA port..

I really like to know, should the TV-out possible work? (because i think those are seperate circuits..)

EDIT:

I fixed the graphics card, with the heating trick!!

~ At least it can do black and white~

Reply 2094 of 27549, by shamino

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Tried to install Steam on a P4 Dell. Madness ensued. Whenever Steam was running, WinXP would blue screen.
By default, Steam runs when the system boots, so I couldn't even boot the OS anymore without using safe mode.

Web searching just turned up some irritating threads where other people had the same problem, but the Steam "community" refused to consider the possibility that Steam could be involved, no matter how clearly Steam had been narrowed down as a consistent factor. Since an application can't cause blue screens, they wouldn't entertain any discussion of it at all, even as an indirect relationship.
Instead, such threads just turned into arguments about Windows XP, because you know, you're not "supposed" to run XP anymore, Microsoft said so. It gets magic viruses through thin air. That must be why it's blue screening. :eyeroll:

I searched up Microsoft's article for the blue screen error code. Turns out the particular error can be caused by user mode services and applications. I didn't know that was so directly possible, but it is.

The solution turned out to be stupidly simple. I had forgotten that machine was running SP2, not SP3. Uninstalling Steam, installing SP3, then reinstalling Steam fixed it. That such a simple thing was never mentioned in Steam's forums is ... well... I guess not surprising really.

People having these problems always said they had a fresh install. So did I. I think that's how the SP2 mistake can get people.
It's weird though - my nephew was running Steam on XP SP2 fairly recently and it worked for him, so the issue isn't universal.

Reply 2095 of 27549, by Artex

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Working on a new P4 build!

MSI 865PE Neo2 FISR
P4 3.0Ghz Socket 478 (Northwood)
512MB PC2700 DDR Memory
120GB SATA 1.5 7200 HD
DVD-Reader

Still deciding on a video card, but I'll probably throw in my Nvidia 6800 Ultra and perhaps a 3DFX card as well. For sound I'm leaning towards a PCI Vortex2-based Monster Sound MX300.

So far I've installed Windows 98SE and then used 98Lite to swap the shell out. It's really, really fast!

My Retro B:\ytes YouTube Channel & Retro Collection
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Reply 2097 of 27549, by Artex

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philscomputerlab wrote:

Very nice Artex 😀

Hah - just noticed you did a review of 98Lite. Good timing! I've been using that for some time now on all my 98SE builds. 😀

My Retro B:\ytes YouTube Channel & Retro Collection
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Reply 2098 of 27549, by Stiletto

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Continuing working on the Undumped Wiki's Discrete page:
http://mamedev.emulab.it/undumped/index.php?title=Discrete

Pretty soon, we'll be looking for more volunteers to turn 1970's schematics into text files. 😀

"I see a little silhouette-o of a man, Scaramouche, Scaramouche, will you
do the Fandango!" - Queen

Stiletto

Reply 2099 of 27549, by PhilsComputerLab

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Artex wrote:
philscomputerlab wrote:

Very nice Artex 😀

Hah - just noticed you did a review of 98Lite. Good timing! I've been using that for some time now on all my 98SE builds. 😀

Cool! Which option did you go for? Did you run it after installing Windows 98, or a clean installation?

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