Reply 180 of 190, by gdjacobs
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Works in any *NIX
http://www.fluidsynth.org/
also see the built in stuff
https://www.kvraudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298008
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
Works in any *NIX
http://www.fluidsynth.org/
also see the built in stuff
https://www.kvraudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298008
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
wrote:Has anyone tried this with what I without knowing anything about this MIDI stuff assume are cheap chinese UM-ONE knockoffs, like this one for instance?
The knockoff USB adapters are usually missing parts, generally buffering and opto-isolation.
http://www.arvydas.co.uk/2013/07/cheap-usb-mi … ay-be-required/
They're a good deal if you're willing to buy the required parts and install them. They're less a USB MIDI adapter than they are a partly assembled kit with PCB, UART, and case.
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
wrote:Yes. Check first post!
Hah, missed that completely! Explains why it's not been discussed in length already 😁
wrote:The knockoff USB adapters are usually missing parts, generally buffering and opto-isolation.
http://www.arvydas.co.uk/2013/07/cheap-usb-mi … ay-be-required/They're a good deal if you're willing to buy the required parts and install them. They're less a USB MIDI adapter than they are a partly assembled kit with PCB, UART, and case.
Well, the modification work seems to be piece of cake, even think I've got suitable opto couplers stocked at home already 😀 Might try it as an experiment, it's not like it's gonna leave me broke if it's not good enough.
I got one of those cheap USB MIDI interfaces working with MUNT on a Raspberry Pi 3 last night. Adding the optocoupler and resistor is a piece of cake, and since I already had a scrap board with the needed parts it didn't cost my anything extra to do. For $4.99 I'm happy!
Having an Rpi plugged into my sound card MPU-401 port and working like an MT-32 is wild!
For more details, see my post here: Re: Emulating MT-32 on an RPi2
R11 (which isn't really a resistor at all) would be to electrically couple the MIDI input to the serial encoder (the chip nicely placed under the black blob of doom), so it would need to be removed if adding the optocoupler (which is the MIDI standard of accepting input) -- i.e. it is either R11 or the optocoupler required for operation, not both. The optocoupler allows for electrical isolation between the output device and the USB-MIDI adapter (i.e. your host), which means avoiding grounding loops and unnecessary noise on the line, which could in some cases translate to missed or mis-interpreted notes/commands. Adding R5 is necessary for the operation of the optocoupler, and D1 should technically be populated too (with a diode), which also helps reduce transients and acts as a protection mechanism for incorrectly wired MIDI sources, but not strictly necessary.
https://www.midi.org/specifications/item/midi … l-specification
I use digikey for sourcing of pretty much any discrete (and integrated) electrical component I can think of... in Canada we have digikey.ca, not sure if digikey.com ships worldwide or only to US.
The second USB-MIDI adaptor you have pictured that has the MFM0880 chip appears to be a much nicer/less cheap one. Is there a difference in performance that you notice?
[edit] Digikey.com claims to ship to more than 170 countries worldwide!
Thanks for the pointers!
I haven't used them for a long time, since I got a Roland one. But I never had issues using them as a MIDI output, for let's say using DOSBox and connecting a real Sound Canvas.
It was only when I used MIDI input, that I noticed issues. But I can't remember which adapter I used. I never opened it before and just assumed they are identical.
I pulled my parts from a scrap board I got at work. We manufacture and service industrial devices that commonly use optocouplers so I lucked out there. If you're handy with a soldering iron, old modems are also a good source. You'll likely find a suitable current-limiting resistor (around 200 ohms) on a modem as well. Look for resistors marked 201 or 221, those are 200 and 220 ohm.
Over the years I've saved myself quite a bit of money re-purposing components from scrap boards, and it's good for the environment too! 😀
wrote:Well, I've uploaded it for anyone interested. I'm not sure how long I'll leave it up, but feel free to download it while it's available. It did only take last night through to this afternoon to upload it (albeit with nothing else using the connection because it probably would have timed out and needed to be started from scratch otherwise). As said, I don't know if it will work yet, but here it is, gdjacobs' munt raspbian image upgraded to jessie for the pi 3: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2uObEBH_jRH … iew?usp=sharing
Anyone using it will still need to use gdjacobs' method for installing the roms, etc.Thanks again for everything gdjacobs!
Any updated images available for rpi3?