It is the soyo-SY019I:
http://retronn.de/imports/hwgal/hw_386eteq.html
NPU is detected automatically.

Actually not many jumpers there.
You board misses a few ICs.

Thanks elianda! How did you figure it out? I seem to be missing some of the cache chips and also U23 and U24 (the setup of those seems a bit different on that (your?) site). I'll try and move around/move the cache chips to see if it makes a difference.

It might also just be dead 🙁

Here's another page with jumper settings and board layout: http://arvutimuuseum.ee/th99/m/S-T/31011.htm

Cyrix200+ wrote:

Thanks elianda! How did you figure it out? I seem to be missing some of the cache chips and also U23 and U24 (the setup of those seems a bit different on that (your?) site). I'll try and move around/move the cache chips to see if it makes a difference.

Well, there is a 019I sticker on the board.
http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/S/SO … 9H-SY-019I.html
It looks like your board needs some work.

I use the board in the second system here: http://retronn.de/imports/computer_overview.html

Nah, it doesn't look that bad. Don't throw it away yet.
Often removable ICs can be found in electronic stores.

And damaged traces can be replaced by a few patch wires here and there.
I mean, what do you have to loose ? If it's already dead, nothing is lost.

But before you do, please use a cheap diagnostic card or a beeper and check for signs of life.
That's better than damaging one of your precious VGA cards.

PS: Normally, broken caches should't prevent it from starting.
They aren't used until they were found to be good.

😊 🤣 Ha elianda you're right, I feel a bit stupid now 😀

Jo22, beeper gives no sound, and I don't have diagnostic card (yet). Any recommendations for one? I have about 16 Socket 5 and 7 board to test soon 😀

elianda wrote:

... […]
Show full quote

...

Well, there is a 019I sticker on the board.
http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/S/SO … 9H-SY-019I.html
It looks like your board needs some work.

I use the board in the second system here: http://retronn.de/imports/computer_overview.html

Jo22 wrote:

Nah, it doesn't look that bad. Don't throw it away yet. Often removable ICs can be found in electronic stores. […]
Show full quote

Nah, it doesn't look that bad. Don't throw it away yet.
Often removable ICs can be found in electronic stores.

And damaged traces can be replaced by a few patch wires here and there.
I mean, what do you have to loose ? If it's already dead, nothing is lost.

But before you do, please use a cheap diagnostic card or a beeper and check for signs of life.
That's better than damaging one of your precious VGA cards.

PS: Normally, broken caches should't prevent it from starting.
They aren't used until they were found to be good.

Two and a half years later...

I want to build a system with this board!

Looking at the battery damage again, I feel it should be fixable if/when there are problems. But then there are the missing chips... There are a bunch of cache chips missing, those are replaceable but expensive on eBay. I have little experience with this, is there a guide on cache chips somewhere? I have plenty of 486 boards that might be able to donate some chips for tests.... Can I just leave them out? Will the board at least POST without them? I haven't tried anything yet, because:

On to the real challenge: there are two more chips missing:

elianda has a picture of the board on his site here: http://retronn.de/imports/hwgal/hw_386eteq.html . Besides the cache chips, U23 and U24 seem to be the two empty sockets. Enhancing the picture shows

U24: 74FCT / 521BP(triangle) / 9131CP
U23: P9142?? / 74FCT24?? / PC

I can probably 'just' find these on eBay and go for it?

This is the board now:

Cyrix200+ wrote:

U24: 74FCT / 521BP(triangle) / 9131CP
U23: P9142?? / 74FCT24?? / PC

I can probably 'just' find these on eBay and go for it?

Yes, these are standard logic ICs? You can also use other types, i.e.
U24: 74ALS521 74F521
U23: SN74HC240 74ls240

Predator99 wrote:

Yes, these are standard logic ICs? You can also use other types, i.e. U24: 74ALS521 74F521 U23: SN74HC240 74ls240 […]
Show full quote

Cyrix200+ wrote:

U24: 74FCT / 521BP(triangle) / 9131CP
U23: P9142?? / 74FCT24?? / PC

I can probably 'just' find these on eBay and go for it?

Yes, these are standard logic ICs? You can also use other types, i.e.
U24: 74ALS521 74F521
U23: SN74HC240 74ls240

Great, thanks! I will look into it! Good to know that I am not specifically bound to these types. They are hard to find.

Just a quick note, HC and LS series might be a tad bit too slow for this task, if it's cache memory related. Mouser should carry FCT but you can try substitutes too.
I'd pick ACT for FCT replacement. If you can't find ACT, try AC first, then HC/HCT, then ALS and LS as last resort.

Deunan wrote:

Just a quick note, HC and LS series might be a tad bit too slow for this task, if it's cache memory related. Mouser should carry FCT but you can try substitutes too.
I'd pick ACT for FCT replacement. If you can't find ACT, try AC first, then HC/HCT, then ALS and LS as last resort.

Ah, so the letter combinations say something about speed.

Yes, they do:

- Ye olde true TTL bipolar stuff (old, obsolete, not manufactured for years now):
74nn - old crap, do not use unless speed is not an issue (some special gates like 30V tolerant 7406 are only made like this)
74S - S is for speed, but power hungry and hot
74AS - improved S, still obsolete
74F - F is for fast. Faster than S, even more power hungry and hot
74L - L is for low power, very slow
74LS - best of L and S in one, actually sometimes faster and way lower power than S, 74nn. Still available here and there.

- 74 in CMOS (currently manufactured):
74HC - typical CMOS, speed usually on par with LS series, way lower static power, dynamic mostly too
74AHC - improved HC but not as fast as AC, but offers less switching noise
74AC - improved, very fast logic, but more power hungry, also offers more current drive at outputs
74FCT - same as ACT in most cases, strictly designed to operate in place of older F chips
74LV - low woltage HC equivalent, now, HC might also work with 3V3 but LV will be way faster at that voltage (but does not tolerate 5V)
74LVC - as LV but tolerant to 5V inputs

For CMOS if there is T as the last letter it means TTL-compatible. The treshold for logical "1" is lower than 1/2 VCC, around 2V at all times, to make sure it will always properly trigger when driven from older TTL logic. But it also means it's more susceptible to line noise.
I've skipped a few less-known series that are usually just equivalent to one of the above: ABT, ALV, LCX, LVQ, LVC, VCX, VHC - you ever find one of these, try manufacturer manuals to figure out what that is exactly.

Nice board!

ETEQ are the chipsets on one of my favourite 386 boards... and one I will never let go (attached). For one it is prob the fastest boards I own, and also... it can take 16 x 4 MB 30 pin SIMM's = upto 64 MB ram, not that it will ever be needed / used. It was a salvage board no less and had battery leakage, which required a few traces to be repaired on the underside. I love this board.

I noticed you're chipsets are slightly different from my own: -

Your Baby AT:
ET82C491
ET82C493

My Long AT:
ET82C491A
ET82C492A

If the board below is anything to go by, you may have one of the most high end 386 chipsets / motherboard out there. 😀

Deunan wrote:

Yes, they do: […]
Show full quote

Yes, they do:

- Ye olde true TTL bipolar stuff (old, obsolete, not manufactured for years now):
74nn - old crap, do not use unless speed is not an issue (some special gates like 30V tolerant 7406 are only made like this)
74S - S is for speed, but power hungry and hot
74AS - improved S, still obsolete
74F - F is for fast. Faster than S, even more power hungry and hot
74L - L is for low power, very slow
74LS - best of L and S in one, actually sometimes faster and way lower power than S, 74nn. Still available here and there.

- 74 in CMOS (currently manufactured):
74HC - typical CMOS, speed usually on par with LS series, way lower static power, dynamic mostly too
74AHC - improved HC but not as fast as AC, but offers less switching noise
74AC - improved, very fast logic, but more power hungry, also offers more current drive at outputs
74FCT - same as ACT in most cases, strictly designed to operate in place of older F chips
74LV - low woltage HC equivalent, now, HC might also work with 3V3 but LV will be way faster at that voltage (but does not tolerate 5V)
74LVC - as LV but tolerant to 5V inputs

For CMOS if there is T as the last letter it means TTL-compatible. The treshold for logical "1" is lower than 1/2 VCC, around 2V at all times, to make sure it will always properly trigger when driven from older TTL logic. But it also means it's more susceptible to line noise.
I've skipped a few less-known series that are usually just equivalent to one of the above: ABT, ALV, LCX, LVQ, LVC, VCX, VHC - you ever find one of these, try manufacturer manuals to figure out what that is exactly.

Thanks for the explanation! In the end, I found FCT versions for acceptable prices (well, acceptable if you include the fact I buy one and they need to be shipped).

The IC's for U23 and U24 arrived today:

Hurray!

Now it hangs at the post screen. Tried some cache from another board, still hangs. Keyboard is working after a hard reboot (I can CTRL-ALT-DEL), but after a reset/CTRL-ALT-DEL the system becomes fully unresponsive. 🙁

Can you enter bios setup? If so, disable external cache. If not, remove all your cache chips and try again.

quicknick wrote:

Can you enter bios setup? If so, disable external cache. If not, remove all your cache chips and try again.

No, I can't unfortunately. I also tried without any cache chips (and TAG). Same behaviour...

How long did you wait? Think its searching for a HDD- or FDD-controller which isnt there.
What is the display on the POST card?

I also tried with a controller . It has been sitting like this for at least 5 minutes sometimes. POST card displays --, it does not show POST codes at all on this board. I am going to try another PSU this evening, swap the RAM and also checking some traces near the keyboard connector. Not really sure that will help.