Pretty sure they have locked multiplier, so it shouldn't matter what you set. But if there is an auto setting, just go with that.

What happens when you turn it on? It should tell you the clock settings.

PhilsComputerLab wrote:

Pretty sure they have locked multiplier, so it shouldn't matter what you set. But if there is an auto setting, just go with that.

What happens when you turn it on? It should tell you the clock settings.

There is an auto setting for the SW1 switch, but not for the SW2 one. I don't get anything so far when I turn it on.

I think actually the no output could be the fact that from what it loks like, a couple of the caps appear to have leaked? Sigh...

It's the 4 blue Choyo ones mainly.

^ Those caps are FUBAR, don't even power up that mobo until they're replaced.

As above. Also, thoroughly clean off all the leaked electrolyte from the board as soon as possible, don't wait until you've ordered new caps.

Is it just the photo, or has the north bridge been running hot too? If the latter, the bad caps could have caused it, but you might still want to keep an eye at it once you got the board recapped.

RECAPP ASAP AND CLEAN UP ALL LEAKED ELECTOLYTE

Don't even power that thing on, looked like the NB is been though hell, maybe from the bad caps?

Recap before tinkering any more just as the others suggest!

My guess would be that the dark shape that can be seen on the northbridge is the shadow from the trigger finger on the hand holding the camera.

Skyscraper wrote:

Recap before tinkering any more just as the others suggest!

My guess would be that the dark shape that can be seen on the northbridge is the shadow from the trigger finger on the hand holding the camera.

No its not shadow, it really is there. would maybe attempting to affix some kind of heatsink on it help for the future?

Jade Falcon wrote:

RECAPP ASAP AND CLEAN UP ALL LEAKED ELECTOLYTE

Don't even power that thing on, looked like the NB is been though hell, maybe from the bad caps?

I'm looking into getting it recapped now. How much should I replace? Even the tiny ones? (It's only the 4 blue Choya ones that are bulging/leaked).
How best should I clean up the electrolyte? The mobo arrived from ebay today, the previous seller hadn't tested it or anything. I turned it on twice this morning, but for a few secs or so - since nothing was coming on screen.

bergqvistjl wrote:

Skyscraper wrote:

Recap before tinkering any more just as the others suggest!

My guess would be that the dark shape that can be seen on the northbridge is the shadow from the trigger finger on the hand holding the camera.

No its not shadow, it really is there. would maybe attempting to affix some kind of heatsink on it help for the future?

If it's not to late.

It's not very common that bad caps leads to a dead northbridge but it does happen and when stuff looks like that it's not a good sign.

If the board diddn't smell funny when you tested it I would probably still try to recap it but dont cut the cap leads on the new caps until you tested the board though so you resuse them on another board if the northbridge turns out to be dead.

Skyscraper wrote:

If it's not to late. […]
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bergqvistjl wrote:

Skyscraper wrote:

Recap before tinkering any more just as the others suggest!

My guess would be that the dark shape that can be seen on the northbridge is the shadow from the trigger finger on the hand holding the camera.

No its not shadow, it really is there. would maybe attempting to affix some kind of heatsink on it help for the future?

If it's not to late.

It's not very common that bad caps leads to a dead northbridge but it does happen and when stuff looks like that it's not a good sign.

If the board diddnt smell funny when you tested it I would probably still try to recap it, dont cut the cap leads on the new caps though so you resuse them on another board if the northbridge turns out to be dead.

It smelt funny the very first time. But I changed the CPU heatsink I was using (from some cheapo one to a more substantial coolermaster one I had) and it stopped smelling funny. I have to say, apart from those caps & the north-bridge, the rest of the board looks fine.

bergqvistjl wrote:

It smelt funny the very first time. But I changed the CPU heatsink I was using (from some cheapo one to a more substantial coolermaster one I had) and it stopped smelling funny. I have to say, apart from those caps & the north-bridge, the rest of the board looks fine.

Well then don't get your hopes up. If you have caps or would order caps for another board anyway you can still try a racap. Dont cut the leads on the new caps until you tested the board though, just use some tape to keep the leads from causing shorts.

Skyscraper wrote:

bergqvistjl wrote:

It smelt funny the very first time. But I changed the CPU heatsink I was using (from some cheapo one to a more substantial coolermaster one I had) and it stopped smelling funny. I have to say, apart from those caps & the north-bridge, the rest of the board looks fine.

Well then don't get your hopes up. If you have caps or would order caps for another board anyway you can still try a racap. Dont cut the leads on the new caps until you tested the board though, just use some tape to keep the leads from causing shorts.

Well I have nothing to lose I suppose. Which caps should I replace? Even the tiny ones like the one just beneath the ATX connector? Here's some better pics of the board + the affected areas: http://imgur.com/a/e6TcM

The 4 tall ones are bad, start with those. The rest of the caps (Panasonic? and two Sanyo?) looks fine but looks could be deceiving. If the "shorter caps" are some off-brand then replace all close to the CPU, memory and AGP-slot. The tiny caps you can ignore.

Skyscraper wrote:

The 4 tall ones are bad, start with those. The rest of the caps (Panasonic? and two Sanyo?) looks fine but looks could be deceiving. If the "shorter caps" are some off-brand then replace all close to the CPU, memory and AGP-slot. The tiny caps you can ignore.

How should I clean the gunk off the board first?

bergqvistjl wrote:

Skyscraper wrote:

The 4 tall ones are bad, start with those. The rest of the caps (Panasonic? and two Sanyo?) looks fine but looks could be deceiving. If the "shorter caps" are some off-brand then replace all close to the CPU, memory and AGP-slot. The tiny caps you can ignore.

How should I clean the gunk off the board first?

Isopropanol should work. You can use vinager to neutralize the "battery gunk" if there is any corrosion damage. With luck the "gunk" has not eaten through the solder mask.

After replacing the caps, just set the dips to the Auto/10.5× setting (dip switches according to the manual).

Those burn marks don't look good, the busted caps might have fried the NB.

Could the mark on the Northbridge be from a glued on heats ink that got removed at some point

My suggestion, Recap, make sure to use Nichicon, Nippon Chemicon, Panasonic, or another reliable brand. DO NOT CHEAP OUT!

And for the northbridge, get some thermal adhesive and some stock heatsink material and throw it on. You can never have too many heatsinks.