VOGONS


First post, by brostenen

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Hi all...
I just wonder how you all set a price on stuff you sell. Do you take what is asked on eBay and take a certain percentage of? Or is there some standard pricing that I am not really aware of? This topic in general can not be discussed on Amibay, as far as I understand the rules correct.

For example. If we take something, like an Asus P2B, wich are to be found at some 70 dollars. What do people here take when they sell? Or something other populair, like an AWE32 CT-2760 at 110 to 140 US Dollars. Wich is insane in it self, though I fully acknowledge demand versus pricing. How would that be priced?

The reason for me to ask, is that I really want to know if people look at eBay for referance and slash a certain amount off, or look through the entire amibay "sold" add section. So... How to price stuff correctly, when not selling on eBay?

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Reply 1 of 14, by deleted_Rc

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do consider that atleast 10% of the selling price on ebay goes directly to Ebay in fees, after that most top sellers add another X% to cover occasional problem buyers. so I presume atleast 20% of the price ebay shops and other top sellers isn't part of their actual profits.
when I sell something on amibay I check ebay and then local websites (if they have the items) and base my price on that depending on the popularity of the object ofcourse.
$70 for a p2b?! bougt one for not even half that on ebay that long ago.....

Reply 2 of 14, by brostenen

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Yeah... I know that might be over the top, regarding the price on a P2B. Yet that was what I found on a quick search. Might be that ebay filters out sellers that do not ship to europe or something like that. So. Anyway...

Ebay minus 20℅ and referance that with what's up for sale on other places? Hmmm..... Wonder how low a GUS or 64-gold are going for then, compared to eBay.

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Reply 3 of 14, by gerwin

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You cannot put a single price on an asus P2B. That is because there is a practical difference between for example a P2B v1.02 and a v1.12. If you want to run a coppermine Pentium 3 then a P2B v1.02 is not an easy choice, because you would have to replace the VRM chip. On the other hand older revisions kan do 50MHz FSB. Later P2B revisions probably can probably go above 133MHz FSB if you care for it.

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Reply 4 of 14, by dexvx

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Vintage hardware prices vary wildly. It is a function of price versus sell time. If you have a low price, chances are you will sell it fast. There are eBay sellers from other countries that do this for a living. For them, a long sell time (but high sale price) is worth it.

Take your P2B example. I bought a P2B (v1.04, so no CuMine support) combo off eBay a month ago for $40 shipped, and it came with a P2-350, 3x 128MB Micron PC100, Matrox MGA G200 (SGRAM), cheap SB PCI, 3com 905B PCI, USR Courier 56K ISA modem.

I also saw Asus P5A's going for $70-80 for board only (or $180 brand new). But I also (and regrettably) passed on two P5A combos with K6/2 + memory.

I would definitely go by eBay sold price (-20%) for starters. If it doesn't sell in a timely manner, just reduce the price.

Reply 5 of 14, by brostenen

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Hmm... How to find sold items on ebay?

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Those cakes make you sick....

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Reply 7 of 14, by Unknown_K

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Generally you list it at the lowest price you are willing to let it go for (quite a few auctions end with just the original minimum bid). If it sells, it sells. Sometimes you get a bidding war but most times not.
Prices for sold items are just a guideline depending on item condition and interest at the time of sale, they bounce around too much.

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Reply 8 of 14, by luckybob

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oeuvre wrote:

Tick "sold only" under show only

yep. I set the opening bid to about 2/3 of that price and the BIN to 1/3 over. Everything i've ever listed has sold.

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Reply 9 of 14, by brostenen

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oeuvre wrote:

Tick "sold only" under show only

Thanks. 😀 Must have slipped my attention. 😀

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

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Reply 10 of 14, by brostenen

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Unknown_K wrote:

Generally you list it at the lowest price you are willing to let it go for (quite a few auctions end with just the original minimum bid). If it sells, it sells. Sometimes you get a bidding war but most times not.
Prices for sold items are just a guideline depending on item condition and interest at the time of sale, they bounce around too much.

That is true. On the other hand, I am a bit shaky in pricing stuff. Shure I know if something is a great price. On the other hand, to price something correctly, that is were it really gets tricky. Yeah....

I do not want to cheat a buyer into paying overprice, and at the same time I don't want to cheat my self out of money. And finally. Stuff are exploding in value these days, and at the same time I feel I dont want to head down that road of extremes, as this hobby has to be for everyone that cares for old hardware as we do.

Yeah.... Fair pricing is a bitch.

EDIT:
Trading stuff is actually way more easy. As seller X has something. Seller Y say he has something to trade, seller X say that its not quite equally worth the same. Seller Y offers a small piece or two more. And bam... You get a trade/deal. Yeah.... That is way more easy as both are walking away happy. I find pricing stuff to be so much more difficult.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 11 of 14, by brostenen

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I ticked the "sold" on eBay, and searched for the ever popular AWE64-Gold as an example.
Then I sorted it by most recent sold, and found a price right in the middle and took off some 20%.
I focused on the three most recent sold items on eBay as the fourth was a boxed, and
most hardware is not really boxed anyway. Perhaps I should take the 5 or 6 last sold examples instead.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sac … 64+gold&_sop=13

Basically speaking... Is it correctly priced, if I say that an AWE64-Gold is worth some 55 to 56 US dollars?
In danish currency, the most expensive of the 3 last sold Gold's were over 600 danish kroners
The cheapest was 445 danish kroners, and the one in the middle was 519 danish kroners.

So I took 500, slashed off 20% and entered 400 into a currency calculator. That gave me 58.11 USD.
I thought it looked a bit too high, and took it down a notch to 55 USD wich are some 378 Danish Kroners.

So... Is this the way to go, when pricing correctly in order not the cheat my self and a buyer?

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 13 of 14, by vetz

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I look at sold prices on Ebay to determine. I take the average I find. If I sell locally I adjust for any extra shipping / import fees the seller would incur if he had bought from Ebay, meaning I can sell for higher price than on Ebay, but the seller still gets a better deal all in all.

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Reply 14 of 14, by meljor

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I only buy and sell locally and i just price it as i think is right..

If it is right or not i don't care, if I think it is right i just buy it. Same with selling. But i keep a very close eye on things here and i usually know how high things go and more importantly if there is demand or not.

Here it even matters if it is winter or not as most computer hobbyists spend more time with them in the winter. Even the time of the month can be a big deal: end of the month is payday for most people and that is when there is some more room to buy stuff, impulsive or not 😎 Things always sell much faster at the end of the month....Don't be late, because then you might have to wait a full month 🤣

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