I've always removed CPUs like this by putting a small flathead screwdriver just under the CPU "lip" and twisting just a little. Just a little... Then move around to another side and do the same, then repeat. Little by little it will come loose evenly. Do not just pry it off unevenly, or you will bend the pins.

Yep or use a blank metal expansion slot cover. You'll need to change the cpu for any faster speed. Clock multipliers for 50 or 66mHZ are internal to the chip. Changing the jumpers only changes the bus speed from 25 -> 33mhz.

And when you swap out the CPU, make sure to put it in the correct orientation.

Back in the day, my little brother and I were putting together a 486 machine. We accidentally put the CPU in 90 degrees off - no alignment pins or tabs like the newer stuff has.

We turned it on and it shot flames out from between the CPU and the socket.

Freaked us out.

Anyway, we pulled the CPU out and saw that it had actually melted the plastic a bit in some of the socket holes.

We turned the CPU to the correct orientation, put it back in the socket and powered it up. Amazingly it still worked.

The metal tabs are spot welded to the battery, you'll have to desolder it. Replace it with a battery holder to avoid soldering the next time.

I'd rather use a guitar pick or something similar to remove the CPU, a screw driver could easily chip the CPU package or damage the socket.

kaputnik wrote:

The metal tabs are spot welded to the battery, you'll have to desolder it. Replace it with a battery holder to avoid soldering the next time.

I'd rather use a guitar pick or something similar to remove the CPU, a screw driver could easily chip the CPU package or damage the socket.

A guitar pick is not going to be strong enough.

We always used flathead screwdrivers back in the day.

You could always wrap the head of the screwdriver with tape if you were really worried about it though.

You just have to be careful and slowly work it out until it is out enough that you can pull it out by hand.

I've used a butter knife when I didn't have a PGA extractor handy. If you can get the side of the blade under there, you can just slowly twist it up. I've also used those plastic putty knives. They're broad enough that you can get the whole blade under there to get leverage across the entire side of the package.

kaputnik wrote:

The metal tabs are spot welded to the battery, you'll have to desolder it. Replace it with a battery holder to avoid soldering the next time.

I'd rather use a guitar pick or something similar to remove the CPU, a screw driver could easily chip the CPU package or damage the socket.

I'm more worried about the battery, how do you solder it off without there being too much heat for the battery to not explode or something?

You can buy batteries that has the 3 pins in electronic store. I got one for my old laptop. But needs to soilder it out from the Bord off curse;).

Like http://www.conrad.com/medias/global/ce/5000_5 … FB.EPS_1000.jpg

Another alternative would be to put in battery holder after removing the first one

DX25, 33 and early models of the 50MHz chips (not the clock doubled models) used the 1 micron fabrication process. However, intel quickly moved the DX-50 over to the 0.8 micron process, the same one that was used for the DX2 chips. In my experience, the 0.8 micron DX-50s will overclock to 66MHz sometimes.

I suspect most 33MHz parts used the 1 micron process, and you'd be lucky if you could get those stable at 50MHz.

However, the bigger issue is the motherboard. Just to remind you, a 50MHz system bus was something that most manufacturers *really* struggled with during the 486 generation. Infact, the few companies that could produce reliable models often had to redesign their motherboards on 50MHz models, or introduce some crippling wait states. I strongly recommend if your compaq has a 33MHz chip that you not even bother trying for 50MHz. 66 might even fry something.
66MHz system bus is really only something you want to try on 486 motherboards made after 1995.

BTW, it looks like your Compaq is a later one since it supports DX4 CPUs. However, the only bus speed settings I can see are 25 and 33MHz. Looks like if you want 66MHz, you'll have to swap in a DX2 chip.

Does it support a cyrix dx-50? I thought non-intels were different voltages. And is this chip puller wide enough?

There's also this, but the prongs are less than 1mm wide:

Does your machine come with L2 Cache? I have a spare COAST from Compaq Deskpro 486/33. Not sure if it'll work on your board.

lazibayer wrote:

Does your machine come with L2 Cache? I have a spare COAST from Compaq Deskpro 486/33. Not sure if it'll work on your board.

The brown agp-looking socket? Yeah, it has one.

For removing just use a slot cover, insert it under the side slightly and then twist it. Do this on all edges and you should be able to pop it out fairly easily.

SRQ wrote:

For removing just use a slot cover, insert it under the side slightly and then twist it. Do this on all edges and you should be able to pop it out fairly easily.

As long as I note where the "notch" is on the old cpu, I shouldn't have to line up the pins? As in, the board shouldn't have any extra holes on the socket that could make me accidentally place it one row over?