Smack2k wrote:

ANTEC 350W Power Supply

Independent of possible configuration issues, Antec power supplies (at least from the early-mid 2000s) are a major red flag due to their use of Fuhjyyu capacitors. Sadly, everyone recommended them at the time and thought they were amazing. In truth, they aren't - unless they have been recapped. I believe they are otherwise designed well.

I would try another PSU.

I suspect the PSU is either broken or insufficient. Remember, The athlon XP draw most power from the 5V rail and models like the 3200= can draw 70-80W Power. Make sure you have enough amps on the 5V rail, 30 Amps or so should be ok IIRC, but that still might be a bit on the low side. Has been ages since I had to deal with Athlon XPs, but PSUs with weak or low quality 5V rails have always been a major issue with those.

I hope you can get the PSU replaced, that is a kick ass system. I loved my 9800 Pro. I wish I kept a lot of the cards I had from that era.

I have nearly the same build and you need at least 35A on the 5V rail and 350W is barely enough power I advice 400+

Looks like I will be buying a new PSU

Any advice on a decent but not overly expensive PSU with molex power plugs including at least one floppy power cable. Although I could just get the adapters for those.

EDIT - I just did a PC Power Calculator breakdown on the Cooler Master site and it came out recommending a 350W Power Supply and a 303 W Load Voltage.....

The calculator is pointless in this instance. It is not a case where the total power is the problem, the problem is, that this particular build needs a very high amount of power on the 5V rail and only a comparatively small amount on the 12V rail since the CPU is fed from the 5V rail. A common problem with all socket a builds. And that is where it gets difficult. Modern PSUs are designed around having most power drawn from the 12V rail and that means that most manufacturers don't put a huge emphasis on the power of the 5V rail, which means most modern PSUs have around 20-25A on the 5v rail, which is not enough for this build. You need 30-40A for this build and I can't even think of a decent modern PSU below 700W that supplies that. And hose PSUs might even cause trouble because of the unusual load you would put on them.

The best bet would probably to get a used PSU from the same time frame as the rest of the hardware and from a good manufacturer and recap/rebuild it.

I have a few options listed in this thread.

Thanks for the examples....I am going to pick one of them up, check it out when it arrives and hope it works good...I can deal with fixing it when needed...

Any good write-ups / how-tos on re-capping / fixing PSU's? I can solder OK, but never did a Power Supply before.

Replacing the caps is straightforward. The key is identifying the old caps and choosing appropriate replacements. Helpful in this regard is having a good resource for datasheets such as this archive posted via badcaps.net. You can then order new replacements of appropriate spec from a reputable vendor (ideally not eBay).
http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/

Temperature should be as good or better than the original. ESR or ripple current should be similar to original as should capacitance. You will also need to choose replacements which fit into the footprint of the original caps.

Excellent...I enjoy learning new things and really enjoy seeing them through to completion, so this will be an exciting new venture for me...I will practive on some of the PSU's I have currently before I would touch one that is important.

EDIT - Back to the power supply, My Antel SL350 has 35A on the +5V rail according to this - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?I … N82E16817103913 - doesnt that match the others in that list of PSU's? Just trying to get a better understanding of what I am looking at.

Yes, but also check the combined power handling of the 3.3V and 5V rails. Furthermore, if your caps have degraded, the rails might not be holding in specification or even settling during power on.

gdjacobs wrote:

Replacing the caps is straightforward. The key is identifying the old caps and choosing appropriate replacements. Helpful in this regard is having a good resource for datasheets such as this archive posted via badcaps.net. You can then order new replacements of appropriate spec from a reputable vendor (ideally not eBay).
http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/

Temperature should be as good or better than the original. ESR or ripple current should be similar to original as should capacitance. You will also need to choose replacements which fit into the footprint of the original caps.

on top of that, take in account a good brand of caps like panasonic. Most caps aren't really expensive mostly below $1,-.
Documentation will likely be lacking for such old PSU, so I suggest taking it apart and just identify the bad caps and replace those. I choose a more rigorous approach and just replaced all of them just incase this netted me around $30,- where as the the 2 buffers were most expensive to replace and I also replaced the fan.

Purchasing from a reputable supplier like Digikey or Element14, probably the only brand to actively avoid is Vishay.

Update - The issue was in fact the PSU...I got a new 420W PSU with higher Amperage on the +5 rail and the machine booted up fine and I was able to get it installed this past weekend...

Thanks for the help!