VOGONS


First post, by iKarith

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I recall that in the later socket 5/7 days, boards began featuring a turbo LED connector, but often lacking a turbo switch connector. Take for example this EFA Viking 3.

If you llook at page 8 of that manual, the front panel connector lists a turbo switch connection. Next to that is a pair of unlabeled pins (which is odd because this connector has no pins anywhere else that has no connection). Given the rest of the connector and the lack of pins where you have no connection, I have a suspicion that's my turbo switch connector. Is that likely? Was it common to include a turbo switch on boards of this era without labeling it?

For the two people that noticed I was previously discussing an Acorp board, yeah--the board seems to be unable to boot. As I don't even know where to begin troubleshooting that, I decided I was better off trying a different board.

Reply 2 of 8, by Jed118

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I have a TS54P AIO - It has a turbo button, but it doesn't seem to correlate with the switch position - IE - Before/during POST, pressing the turbo button would cause the LED to turn off (with a curious delay) but as soon as POST is completed and the computer boots, the LED turns back on (regardless of switch position) and it seems that the turbo button doesn't do anything. I've checked in BIOS and I couldn't find anything about its functionality.

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Reply 3 of 8, by j^aws

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@iKarith:

You could try that jumper if you manage to get the board to POST (at your own risk, of course). There are quite a few boards with the Turbo header, but not all of them are working. You could also try key combinations such as:
[CTRL]+[ALT]+[+ OR -]
This also maybe dependent on EMM386 on some boards.

Reply 4 of 8, by iKarith

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The other thing I suppose I could do which might make more sense than trying to make the turbo function of a SS7 board be useful for something might be to swap out the SPDT turbo switch for a DPDT switch. DPDT could be connected to the FSB jumpers to select 66MHz or 100MHz. I'd probably want a pretty stiff switch on that though because it's not something I expect you're meant to toggle on a running system. 😉 Might even be able to hook up the LEDs.

Reply 5 of 8, by Jorpho

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j^aws wrote:

You could also try key combinations such as:
[CTRL]+[ALT]+[+ OR -]

I seem to recall that some Dell Optiplex machines used CTRL-ALT-/ (on the numpad).

Reply 8 of 8, by Jed118

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Why would you need a double pole switch vs a single pole? You want to isolate two circuits?

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