This ASUS mobo pic doesn't look like blown cap at all. More like a critical failure of a chip/voltage regulator.

I have the same or a very similar board, Asus P4P800-E Deluxe. It has 6 bulging caps near the CPU which I need to change sometime

martin939 wrote:

This ASUS mobo pic doesn't look like blown cap at all. More like a critical failure of a chip/voltage regulator.

Could be, but could have been started by a bad cap.

I had this happen to me once, but the capacitor was on a PCI USB/FireWire card. The explosion destroyed the PCI Matrox graphics card next to it.

First time I fired up a NOS Abit KT7A, multiple caps exploded. Made a big mess but after replacing all of them the board worked/works great.

KT7 is infamous for garbage caps. I have here one with a Duron 600 with just about every cap leaked through the top. Don't want to touch multiplayer PCB mess to recap it, not worth it for me.

What kind or PSU exactly? OVP should have kicked in if it had any.

elod wrote:

What kind or PSU exactly? OVP should have kicked in if it had any.

OVP is not going to kick in to prevent the explosive gas from exploding that has formed from the electrolyte degrading.

martin939 wrote:

KT7 is infamous for garbage caps. I have here one with a Duron 600 with just about every cap leaked through the top. Don't want to touch multiplayer PCB mess to recap it, not worth it for me.

Easy peasy to recap a motherboard. You just need a temp adjustable soldering iron to remove the old ones. You don't even have to use solder wick. You just heat up one leg, use the cap itself to help pull the leg out by tipping the cap the one way and then repeat with the other leg. Usually take 2-3 times with each leg to get it all the way removed. Then once it is out, you can use a solder sucker to remove the left over solder if you really want to. Usually I just install in reverse order without sucking the old solder all the way out of the holes.

I also use solder paste to help with cleaning the solder which also helps immensely with heat transfer to the solder itself so you don't end up burning the board itself when removing the old caps.

I know, I do have a professional Ersa soldering station and a vacuum pump desoldering station but it's the cost that holds me back, shipping is more expensive than the components and I hade those tiny soldering pads 😉
What temp is your iron set to for PC motherboards?

martin939 wrote:

I know, I do have a professional Ersa soldering station and a vacuum pump desoldering station but it's the cost that holds me back, shipping is more expensive than the components and I hade those tiny soldering pads 😉
What temp is your iron set to for PC motherboards?

I generally order caps off of eBay. Super cheap and shipping is not expensive either. The parts warehouses are just stupid crazy with their shipping prices.

The temp setting varies depending on the motherboard as well as if the connection is on a ground plane or not. Whatever temp makes the solder melt without having to hold the iron in place for very long.

cyclone3d wrote:

martin939 wrote:

I know, I do have a professional Ersa soldering station and a vacuum pump desoldering station but it's the cost that holds me back, shipping is more expensive than the components and I hade those tiny soldering pads 😉
What temp is your iron set to for PC motherboards?

I generally order caps off of eBay. Super cheap and shipping is not expensive either. The parts warehouses are just stupid crazy with their shipping prices.

The temp setting varies depending on the motherboard as well as if the connection is on a ground plane or not. Whatever temp makes the solder melt without having to hold the iron in place for very long.

Hi can you please send me a link to a reasonable seller of capacitor on ebay? Thanks

cyclone3d wrote:

elod wrote:

What kind or PSU exactly? OVP should have kicked in if it had any.

OVP is not going to kick in to prevent the explosive gas from exploding that has formed from the electrolyte degrading.

To get this kind of reaction I think you need a pretty violent and long overvoltage. This is why I think PSUs with separate OVP ICs are safer.

luisile wrote:

Hi can you please send me a link to a reasonable seller of capacitor on ebay? Thanks

http://www.tme.eu/sk/
Farnell has a wider range of components but a bit higher shipping cost (for Romania TME is shipping at around 4 euros, Farnell was 5 if I remember right).

With ebay you'll likely never know if you got the right part vs a cheap chinese knockoff.

elod wrote:

cyclone3d wrote:

elod wrote:

What kind or PSU exactly? OVP should have kicked in if it had any.

OVP is not going to kick in to prevent the explosive gas from exploding that has formed from the electrolyte degrading.

To get this kind of reaction I think you need a pretty violent and long overvoltage. This is why I think PSUs with separate OVP ICs are safer.

Like I said, I had the same exact thing happened as soon as I turned the power on on an NOS KT7A. The instant I pushed the power button 4 or 5 capacitors exploded.

When I did a bit of research before making my first post in this thread, apparently newer capacitors have venting capability so they can release the gas from the electrolyte degrading. The older design didn't have a vent so the gas just stays inside unless the top pops and lets it leak out.

Yeah, I guess it could be from an overvoltage event, but I really doubt it based on past experience.