VOGONS


best way to dry out a computer

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First post, by candle_86

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So I found a computer today, it looks intact but it was outside in the rain by a dumbster, its a SIMM/Socket7 board fully loaded so I'd like to save it. Even the PSU had water dripping out of it. Because it was already soaking wet and it was also very nasty inside I just took off the panel and hosed it all off, the board and such im not to worried aobut I've done that before, but the psu is what worries me, how can i dry that thing out, the rest of the parts I'd just stick in the oven at 190F for 3 hours

Reply 1 of 21, by Ampera

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I'd bin the PSU right here and now.

PSUs are a thing that you should never even take a chance on. Everything else it's just a matter of making sure the water doesn't leave a lot of residue, and if it does, to really scrub the board up and down with something like Isopropyl Alcohol, or something similarly non-conductive and non-aggressive.

Sounds like a good find.

Reply 2 of 21, by brostenen

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Give that PSU a go, when it is dry and all that. Take it apart first, give it a good rinse under the shower (if you have not done that allready), and let it dry on the radiator/heater for some 48 hours. Turn it on outside in the open.

For the rest of the parts, then do the same. Take everything apart, take out any socketed chips, give a good rinse under the shower and let it dry for 48 hours the same way. I think it is much safer and more gentle on the hardware, than sticking it in the oven.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

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Reply 3 of 21, by Koltoroc

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I second tossing the PSU. Not worth the risk.

Components that might not have appreciated the shower are mechanical drives, particularly the hard drive. Water might have made it into the HDD and getting that out is nigh impossible.

Reply 5 of 21, by Ampera

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candle_86 wrote:

only AT psu i have

If you are really in dire need of an AT supply, get an ATX to AT adapter and something like a cheap Logisys supply from Newegg. Logisys isn't the best brand, but I own three, I have seen around 5-6, and I have never had a single catastrophic faliure. If they do blow it just doesn't turn back on, and it has never happened to any of mine.

I do however heavily suggest spending money and getting a good Seasonic, Corsair, or an EVGA rebrand supply, as they tend to be a bit nicer (They are mostly Corsair anyways)

I absolutely love being period accurate with my hardware, but never on supplies. An old supply just is not worth it one bit.

Reply 6 of 21, by 133MHz

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I agree with the sentiment of not risking death of valuable hardware by dodgy PSU, but I argue that a PSU can be safely tested without taking a gamble. You can load the power rails with a bunch of 12V halogen/automotive lamps, hook up a multimeter to check that the output voltages are within spec, and test for leakage current with a mains detector screwdriver. Worst case scenario the PSU goes bang, fuse blows/breaker trips and you're out some cheap light bulbs.

Being mains powered equipment I'd be extra cautious on making sure that everything is completely clean & dry, since moisture and debris can cause arcing. Take it apart and clean it by hand, and of course observe good electrical safety practices when working around line voltage.

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Reply 7 of 21, by BitWrangler

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I've given a PSU a shower before, it was super caked in fine dust, put it in a heating duct for a few days to "bake" and it was fine after.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 8 of 21, by candle_86

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what about grabbing one of these?

https://www.startech.com/Computer-Parts/PSUs/ … ply~PS2POWER230

I'd like to keep it AT if it all works, ill power it up with the AT psu in my 286 but i don't really want to put this stuff into that case, id rahter leave the 286 in its case plus that psu has a power switch on the side 🤣

Reply 10 of 21, by candle_86

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Well the star tech looks good and ive never had a bad anything from star tech and for a P1 166 which this thing is it should be more than enough

Parts Pulled from it

Matronics D5CUB Intel 430HX has 2xut6132c32aq-6 cache modules not sure of size of cach but since the system supports up to 512k cache and has half installed im going to assume 256k cache
2x32mb SIMMS
Pentium 166 Classic
16.6 ISA Modem (will toss it)
Soundblaster 16 PNP (cant decide if i should keep or use my SB Live)
Daytona 64T Video card with a Trident TGUI9680 chipset (will likely replace with my Voodoo 3 2000 PCI)
Seagate ST31276A 1275mb Hard Drive, i have way bigger including a working Promise Ultra 133 TX2 so likely upgrade to a 20-40gb drive at 7200rpm

looks like a solid 1996 computer, im pretty sure it was built in 96 or 97

So is it a decent system and yes ill get pics taken

Reply 11 of 21, by Robin4

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I would suggest to use a hot hairblower..

Manual for your motherboard:
http://www.motherboards.org/files/manuals/411/d5cub.pdf

~ At least it can do black and white~

Reply 12 of 21, by Mister Xiado

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Bake it at low temperature in the oven. At the "warm" setting, if that's an option. Don't want to melt any plastic, just be hot enough to make the water evaporate into the much dryer air around it. Not an option? If it wasn't the ass end of the year, I'd say leave it in the car with the windows barely cracked. That'll heat it right up on a sunny day.

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Reply 13 of 21, by gdjacobs

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brostenen wrote:

Give that PSU a go, when it is dry and all that. Take it apart first, give it a good rinse under the shower (if you have not done that allready), and let it dry on the radiator/heater for some 48 hours. Turn it on outside in the open.

For the rest of the parts, then do the same. Take everything apart, take out any socketed chips, give a good rinse under the shower and let it dry for 48 hours the same way. I think it is much safer and more gentle on the hardware, than sticking it in the oven.

You can connect via an RCD or GFCI plug to reduce your risk.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 14 of 21, by brostenen

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Mister Xiado wrote:

Bake it at low temperature in the oven. At the "warm" setting, if that's an option. Don't want to melt any plastic, just be hot enough to make the water evaporate into the much dryer air around it. Not an option? If it wasn't the ass end of the year, I'd say leave it in the car with the windows barely cracked. That'll heat it right up on a sunny day.

If one must, then I guess some 30c/86f is a perfect temperature.... 😀
There is just this thing of me not doing that, because you know, lead solder and places were food is prepared.
It's the same with the dishwasher... No hardware is going in my machine. I put forks, spoons and plates in it.

gdjacobs wrote:
brostenen wrote:

Give that PSU a go, when it is dry and all that. Take it apart first, give it a good rinse under the shower (if you have not done that allready), and let it dry on the radiator/heater for some 48 hours. Turn it on outside in the open.

For the rest of the parts, then do the same. Take everything apart, take out any socketed chips, give a good rinse under the shower and let it dry for 48 hours the same way. I think it is much safer and more gentle on the hardware, than sticking it in the oven.

You can connect via an RCD or GFCI plug to reduce your risk.

Had to google, as I did not know what they are. Yes. That's an option, if they are things to protect the rest of the internal wirings in the house. Personally I do not really see why it is a problem, dismantling the PSU, drying it out, and taking a long cable to test in the back yard. As long as stuff has been inspected, bad caps replaced and just making the psu run a testrun for some 25/30 minutes to see if it is stable. If it blows, then I guess the fuses will go as well. Unless of course the house is not protected with fuses and what we in denmark call and "HFI/HPFI" relay.

This... (On Danish, yet you get the general idea on what it's for)
https://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fejlstr%C3%B8msafbryder

It is normally mounted right before the fuses, and if one fuse go, this thing will trip and shut down the entire house in one go. 😜
If you install lamps, the power is on, and you short out the 220volt installation. This thing will trip as well, saving lives.
Yeah.... I have tripped these things a lot. Just by getting 220 volt shock, from installing lamps and not caring about shock. 😁

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 15 of 21, by gdjacobs

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That's an option, if they are things to protect the rest of the internal wirings in the house.

GFCI provides a fast trip if an imbalance between line and neutral is detected. So, if water residue provides a path to ground sustaining current in excess of a few mA, the GFCI will trip.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 16 of 21, by chinny22

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good thing about AT is its hard on or off so you don't actually need to be near it.
I'd attach the power supply power in a switched on state to an extension lead and use the wall socket switch to actually turn on the power.
Fan turns on PSU works, Fan doesn't turn on, thing blows up.
PSU doesn't work! simple. Worst case in theory your house fuse should trip.
Feel free to and surge protectors if you wish as well

Reply 17 of 21, by gdjacobs

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Jade Falcon wrote:

gdjacobs, are you an electrician by chance? You seem to know your stuff rather well.

Not an electrician, no. I hate pulling wire, and I definitely don't write PLC code like an electrician. 😁

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 18 of 21, by luckybob

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OMG IT'S FINE.

Let it dry. day or so, depending on your weather.

Then plug it into an old crappy hard drive (just the drive) and turn it on. 99% chance it will be fine. test voltages with a DMM, then go from there

It is a mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with potatoes.