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Building a Windows 98SE PC

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First post, by GhostyGhost

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Hi Everyone!

I'm GhostyGhost and I'm new to these forums.

First off, I would like to say I really love this website. Lots of people here who still have a passion for old tech and still work with them. Stuff that I like doing too.

I wanted to replay some old games I used to enjoy back in the day for some good old fun. But I wanted to do it on an actual PC from my old time. Why? Because playing on an emulator just doesn't have the same feel as when I did it long ago. I wanted to play play games such as

Wasteland (1988)
Day of the Tentacle (1993)
Maniac Mansion (1987)
Half Life 1 (1998
Quake series (1996-2000)
Doom series (1993-1996)
Fallout 1 & 2 (1997-1998)
and even more classic goodies from the late 80s and 90s!'

But there was just one problem. I had no knowledge of the parts used on PCs back in the day. I've begun doing PC repairs and Laptop repairs, both hardware and software, since 2010 and PCs have come a long way since then.

Now for the Topic at hand, the Windows 98SE PC

The List
Note: I only bought the motherboard only so far.

OS: Windows 98SE - A hybrid of MS-DOS and modern Windows at the time.

CPU: Pentium iii 1000Mhz Coppermine version model SL5QV - To be able to play late 1990s games good but the Motherboard I chose will be able to handle old games too via it's features

Motherboard: ASUS TUV4X - The motherboard has a large support for Legacy devices. The only downside to it is it has no ISA slot for MS-DOS sounds so this leaves me to focus on the Sound Card issue. But the 2 biggest reasons why I chose this motherboard is because you can automatically or manually underclock the CPU to 350Mhz, and not very sure, less than 350Mhz. Also I managed to find this Motherboard Brand new!. Came with old the ribbon cables and accessores, driver discs, both CD and Floppy, ipanel and USB 2.0 expansion card!

Soundcard: UNKNOWN - Candidates, Sound Blaster Live! MP3+ 5.1 This sound card can play from 4 bits to 16 bits resolutions and support for MIDI games apparently. I'm willing to buy it mostly I am curious to knowing how it will handle my MS-DOS games. Not so sure how it will work though.

RAM: Four 128Mb of SDRAM at 133Mhz. Type of SDRAM , TBD. This is the most you can apparently stuff into Windows 98SE and that's fine by me. Though I did hear that the maximum has issues. I want to experiment with that

Optical Drive: IDE DVD reader/burner. Has backwards compatibility with CD-R/CD-RW in various speed settings.

Floppy Drives: 5.25" and 3.5" Floppy Drives. Can't live without these.

PC Case: An TP-102HA case. It's a Mid Tower ATX/AT with four 5.25" drive bays and 2 Floppy drive bays. Also has a nice transparent blue front cover. I like shiny blue.

Graphics card or cards: Voodoo 5 5500 AGP and Voodoo 3 3000 PCI This was a tough decision as I needed performance to run late to very late 1990s games but be able to downgrade to MS-DOS game standards without breaking the game on too much performance. Seeing that it won't be easy to get the best of both worlds, I decided to go with a plan but not sure if it will work. I decided that I will want a Voodoo 5 5500 for my late 1990s games and Voodoo 3 3000 for my MS-DOS games via a switch system. How will I get it to work is unknown to me now. That's why I am doing this experimental build. I might have to change my voodoo 3 3000 for something older.

Storage: 120GB IDE HDD - The most you can put on Windows 98SE. This will do nicely. I want to play lots of games.

(UPDATED) PSU: EG365P-VE - With many thanks to PCBONEZ I have now a good PSU that will work well with my PC and its components reliably.

So that's all to my list. Sorry about the long post but I wanted to make things as clear as possible to the best of my ability. If there is anything that you recommend in terms of parts feel free to reply. If you have any questions regarding this build, also let me know so I may clarify it further. Feel free to comment on the build in any way you please.

P.S. I was actually after a Gigabyte GA-6VTXE motherboard but I couldn't find one and then I saw the ASUS motherboard that I listed in the parts. But then right after I bought the motherboard. My wanted motherboard in question finally showed up. Life just loves messing with people I guess.

Thank You to all. 😀

Last edited by GhostyGhost on 2018-04-21, 22:57. Edited 1 time in total.

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 1 of 26, by PcBytes

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For the PSU you could always post up a picture. A few people (including me) can tell you who made it and if it's good.

"Enter at your own peril, past the bolted door..."
Main PC: i5 3470, GB B75M-D3H, 16GB RAM, 2x1TB
98SE : P3 650, Soyo SY-6BA+IV, 384MB RAM, 80GB

Reply 3 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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I the description says it's an AT PSU. Correct me if I am wrong.

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 4 of 26, by dr_st

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Good God, a PSU with a physical 115V/230V switch. Kill it! Kill it with fire!

Or just turn it on with the switch in the wrong position; that ought to do it.

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Reply 5 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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Oh dear. If that's how bad that PSU is then I better find something else and request the PC case without the PSU.

Last edited by GhostyGhost on 2018-04-22, 16:46. Edited 1 time in total.

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 6 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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That switch says nothing at all about how good the PSU is. - Nothing.
.
Unfortunately neither do those photos.
Need to at least see the label and probably the inside too.
As you are not that kind of tech DO NOT plug it in with the cover off.
There are high voltages (higher than line) in there when they are powered up.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 7 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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PCBONEZ wrote:
That switch says nothing at all about how good the PSU is. - Nothing. . Unfortunately neither do those photos. Need to at least […]
Show full quote

That switch says nothing at all about how good the PSU is. - Nothing.
.
Unfortunately neither do those photos.
Need to at least see the label and probably the inside too.
As you are not that kind of tech DO NOT plug it in with the cover off.
There are high voltages (higher than line) in there when they are powered up.
.

I thought he/she knew the model by looking at it. Also I don't own PC case and PSU in question. These are from the seller's page. They don't wish to remove the PSU and show me the label on it because it will make the product not new. That's fishy to me.
Also I do not dismantle PSUs and plug them in for fun. That is a serious safety hazard. I not going to kill myself. I only don't know how to discern a PSU quality by looking at it. I am used to reading a label and reading specification notes.
But thank you for your concern about the PSU safety. I have been repairing computers and laptops for about 8 years now

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 8 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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GhostyGhost wrote:

I have been repairing computers and laptops for about 8 years now

That doesn't tell me much.
There are different kinds of PC Techs and some don't ever look inside a PSU.
That isn't meant to be derogatory. There just ARE different kinds of Techs.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 9 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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PCBONEZ wrote:
That doesn't tell me much. There are different kinds of PC Techs and some don't ever look inside a PSU. That isn't meant to be […]
Show full quote
GhostyGhost wrote:

I have been repairing computers and laptops for about 8 years now

That doesn't tell me much.
There are different kinds of PC Techs and some don't ever look inside a PSU.
That isn't meant to be derogatory. There just ARE different kinds of Techs.
.

Understandable.
Either way I'm not going post my full bio on what PC/Laptops I repair as that would be irrelevant to the topic at hand.
But let's just say for simplicity, that I know how to to do this properly.
Anyway, not to get off track from the topic, would you know of a good PSU of the time? My searching hasn't yielded any results as of yet.

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 10 of 26, by SW-SSG

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GhostyGhost wrote:

I the description says it's an AT PSU. Correct me if I am wrong.

Considering it's installed in an ATX case, it's likely an ATX PSU (thus compatible with your parts) and not AT. Free PSUs that come with cases have a bad reputation, though, and (at least from outside) this one looks no different. I'd personally swap it with a decent new PSU, or an older unit with strong +5V rail from Enermax/Seasonic/FSP that had been re-capped.

dr_st wrote:

Good God, a PSU with a physical 115V/230V switch. Kill it! Kill it with fire!

Not helpful. There are plenty of decent PSUs out there with passive PFC. They're just... old. See above.

GhostyGhost wrote:

120GB IDE HDD

Hmm, which one?

Reply 11 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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ASUS TUV4X is ATX but it's the early 5v heavy type. The CPU is on +5v unlike newer equipment.
If you can find one with 25-30+ amps on +5v that would be ideal.
You also want a stout +3.3v + 5v combined watts rating. Preferably something over 125w.

There were a lot of them made. The issue will be current availability.
The last one I bought was an Enermax Whisper EG465P=VE [431w] _ 5V=44A, 3.3V=38A, 3.3+5V Combined=220w
That one is a bit oversize for your application but,
there was an Enermax Whisper EG365P=VE [350w] _ 5V=32A, 3.3V=32A, 3.3+5V Combined=185w
I see those on eBay now and then. There were some other models that are nearly the same. I just don't recall the model numbers.
You have to pay attention with Enermax because at some point they upgraded the ATX spec without changing the model numbers.
(Thus all the ratings changed but the model number didn't. You have to see the label to be sure.)

I can say avoid ALL Antec Smart/True variations. Actually all Antecs of that vintage.
- They are cap blowers plus some of the caps sizes are impossible to find.
Avoid Bestec. Some are okay but some blow chipsets.
Avoid Dell of that era. - Proprietary wiring.
Non-Dell Delta & NPS are good. Sparkle and most FSP are okay.
Seasonic are good (OEM versions just okay)

Anyway. There were a lot of good ones and a lot of bad ones.
The way to do it is to find one and then research it before you buy.
Deciding on a model and then looking for it might take years.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 12 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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GhostyGhost wrote:

120GB IDE HDD

Hmm, which one?

Seagate ATA-100 type or a Hitachi HDD. Same type

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 13 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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Enermax Liberty and Noisetakers had issues.
They were sloppy with the glue and the type used becomes conductive when it hardens over time.
I forgot what the second problem model was. Had to go find the old post.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5466

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 14 of 26, by GhostyGhost

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PCBONEZ wrote:
ASUS TUV4X is ATX but it's the early 5v heavy type. The CPU is on +5v unlike newer equipment. If you can find one with 25-30+ am […]
Show full quote

ASUS TUV4X is ATX but it's the early 5v heavy type. The CPU is on +5v unlike newer equipment.
If you can find one with 25-30+ amps on +5v that would be ideal.
You also want a stout +3.3v + 5v combined watts rating. Preferably something over 125w.

There were a lot of them made. The issue will be current availability.
The last one I bought was an Enermax Whisper EG465P=VE [431w] _ 5V=44A, 3.3V=38A, 3.3+5V Combined=220w
That one is a bit oversize for your application but,
there was an Enermax Whisper EG365P=VE [350w] _ 5V=32A, 3.3V=32A, 3.3+5V Combined=185w
I see those on eBay now and then. There were some other models that are nearly the same. I just don't recall the model numbers.
You have to pay attention with Enermax because at some point they upgraded the ATX spec without changing the model numbers.
(Thus all the ratings changed but the model number didn't. You have to see the label to be sure.)

I can say avoid ALL Antec Smart/True variations. Actually all Antecs of that vintage.
- They are cap blowers plus some of the caps sizes are impossible to find.
Avoid Bestec. Some are okay but some blow chipsets.
Avoid Dell of that era. - Proprietary wiring.
Non-Dell Delta & NPS are good. Sparkle and most FSP are okay.
Seasonic are good (OEM versions just okay)

Anyway. There were a lot of good ones and a lot of bad ones.
The way to do it is to find one and then research it before you buy.
Deciding on a model and then looking for it might take years.
.

Thanks You for the information.

I like Sea Sonic a lot for it's reliability. You are definitely right about Dell and Antec brand stuff.
I took your advice and searched to see if there was an Enermax EG365P-VE around and there is one on there.
I checked the label and it check out.
+3.3V at 32A
+5V at 32A
Combined +3.3V & 5V at 185W

Here is the picture
s-l1600.jpg

It looks good to me and If it looks good to you, I shall acquire it.

Also about the Enermax Liberty and Noisetakers, I'll watch out for them so I can avoid them.

Thanks PCBONEZ you're really great.

If life throws a wrench into your plans, then show life that no matter what it does to you, you will always prevail.

Reply 15 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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Looks good to me.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 16 of 26, by BinaryDemon

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dr_st wrote:

Good God, a PSU with a physical 115V/230V switch. Kill it! Kill it with fire!

Or just turn it on with the switch in the wrong position; that ought to do it.

Wouldnt that only kill it if you were in a country that actually supplies 230v and you had it set to 115v? I don't remember any issues with killing my hardware by flipping the switch *back in the day*.

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Reply 17 of 26, by gdjacobs

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PCBONEZ wrote:

Looks good to me.

That's a good PSU. Plenty of power on the 5V rail even for a hungry late model Athlon XP build.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 18 of 26, by dr_st

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BinaryDemon wrote:

Wouldnt that only kill it if you were in a country that actually supplies 230v and you had it set to 115v? I don't remember any issues with killing my hardware by flipping the switch *back in the day*.

Good question. Basically you're suggesting that 230V will kill a PSU expecting 115V, but 115V will not kill a PSU expecting 230V?

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Reply 19 of 26, by PCBONEZ

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dr_st wrote:
BinaryDemon wrote:

Wouldnt that only kill it if you were in a country that actually supplies 230v and you had it set to 115v? I don't remember any issues with killing my hardware by flipping the switch *back in the day*.

Good question. Basically you're suggesting that 230V will kill a PSU expecting 115V, but 115V will not kill a PSU expecting 230V?

You just basically said PSUs with physical 115V/230V switches are beneath you, so why do you care?

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.