VOGONS


First post, by fierarul

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Hello,

Perhaps it's a silly question but I've never been much of a hardware guy...

My 90s Cyrix PC has two problems:

1. the CPU fan is not spinning. If I manually help it it wobbles a bit then stops. So, I'm thinking of buying any 50mm fan I can find. I can get online 'Fractal Design Silent Series R3 50mm' which seems to be the right dimensions (50mm) and 12V. Of course, I would have to screw it to the existing CPU heatsink and it would hopefully fit.

2. the power supply is so dusty I can't stand it. Would any modern power supply that has molex connectors do? I have this motherboard if it matters http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/A/A- … m-ATC-1030.html and I'm thinking of just getting the cheapest PSU I can find. All the new PSUs seem to have a high wattage (500W) but I don't think it should matter.

Anything else to keep in mind?

Reply 1 of 20, by dionb

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fierarul wrote:
Hello, […]
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Hello,

Perhaps it's a silly question but I've never been much of a hardware guy...

My 90s Cyrix PC has two problems:

1. the CPU fan is not spinning. If I manually help it it wobbles a bit then stops. So, I'm thinking of buying any 50mm fan I can find. I can get online 'Fractal Design Silent Series R3 50mm' which seems to be the right dimensions (50mm) and 12V. Of course, I would have to screw it to the existing CPU heatsink and it would hopefully fit.

Fractal Design makes good quality, quiet parts. If it fits, it's an excellent choice.

2. the power supply is so dusty I can't stand it. Would any modern power supply that has molex connectors do? I have this motherboard if it matters http://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/A/A- … m-ATC-1030.html and I'm thinking of just getting the cheapest PSU I can find. All the new PSUs seem to have a high wattage (500W) but I don't think it should matter.

Here you have two potential problems:
- this is a board with AT (M8+M9) power connector. Any new PSU will be ATX. That's a different standard, so requires an adapter cable.
- AT PSUs have a 'hard' power switch - the on/off switch directly interrupts the 230V power going into the PSU. ATX PSUs use a 'soft' power switch, which sends a 5V signal (from the +5VSB standby line) to the PSU to switch it on. In other words, you need a different switch and wiring to go with it if you use an ATX SPU.

For those reasons alone it might be better to look for a second-hand (or NOS) AT PSU - or just take apart the one you have now (after discharging it to avoid risk of shock) and clean out the dust and replace the noisy, worn-out fan with a new quiet one.

Anything else to keep in mind?

Don't (ever!) go for the cheapest PSU you can find. Low quality PSUs claim all kinds of specs but cannot deliver and are a danger to your components, both in terms of unstable voltages and risk of sudden failure. If you can't afford a new good quality PSU, go for a second hand good one, not a new crappy one. Ideally you want to look up reviews of the exact PSU model you are considering, but failing that there are two good rule-of-thumb ways to determine PSU quality:
1) brand name. Some brands almost always make competent to good stuff. Everyone has their favorites, but you can't go wrong with things like Seasonic. I personally like FSP, although not everyone does. You'll find that a lot of 'enthousiast' PSUs (i.e. Asus, Corsair, Thermaltake etc) are just rebranded Seasonic or FSP models. BeQuiet is also pretty decent at a good price and generally is fairly quiet too.
2) weight. A good PSU has good quality components and they are heavy. If you compare say a Seasonic PSU with given specs (say 350W) and a Q-Tec PSU claiming the exact same specs, you'll find the Seasonic weighs about three times as much. Now with Seasonic you know you have good PSU and with Q-Tec you know it's crap, but if you have an unknown brand/model, just lift it up. If it's really heavy for its weight, it's probably good. If it feels so light it could be filled with air it probably is so you know it's bad. Note: some cheap crap vendors have cottoned on to this and have actually put blocks of concrete into PSUs. If you don't know the brand name, look inside the PSU to see what's making it heavy. A good one is crammed with components and does not have any concrete blocks inside (duh). A bad one looks like it has very small components - and might have building materials that don't belong in a PSU.

But as I said, ATX in an AT system is not easy. I'd recommend trying to find a second-hand AT PSU first. And you really don't need more than 200W (hell, 120W is probably more than enough). Anything over that is plain inefficient.

One other discussion you sometimes see about old vs new PSUs is the amount of power drawn from the 5V vs the 12V lines. That is relevant with high-end (dual) P3 and Athlon systems, but completely beside the point with a So7 system, that draws so little power that any decent PSU can handle it.

Reply 2 of 20, by gdjacobs

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The switch used for an AT power supply can be used with an ATX supply and an AT to ATX adapter. This is generally safer than AT as you don't have a mains lead running through your case -- it's all contained in the PSU enclosure.

Of course, AT is certainly viable. You don't even have to go NOS. Startech is still producing decent AT PSUs.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 4 of 20, by brostenen

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Keep in mind, that if you buy those cheap convertercables, you can run into some trouble as well.
Some PSU's are unstable, and require you to rewire the adaptor, in order to use the Power-good signal.
I have had that problem with a couple of Socket3 boards and one ATX psu.
When I did a complete rewire of the converter, using all wires and power good signal then it would boot.

For the rewire, I took a 20-to-24 pin ATX convertercable, and used it with the cheap china ATX-AT cable.
Cutting off plugs, and did a bit of soldering, then sealing it off with shrink tube.
The bad part, is that in order to work fully on some AT boards and some ISA cards, I need to use an ATX-PSU
with the -5volt rail. Other than that, it is a much better solution than the cheap ones.

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Reply 5 of 20, by brostenen

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skitters wrote:

I've been using this model AT power supply for my 486
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replaceme … /qid=1528236785

I have seen AT PSU's with 0,7a on the -5v. How important is it to have 0,7 compared to 0,5?

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
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Reply 6 of 20, by skitters

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brostenen wrote:
skitters wrote:

I've been using this model AT power supply for my 486
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replaceme … /qid=1528236785

I have seen AT PSU's with 0,7a on the -5v. How important is it to have 0,7 compared to 0,5?

It seems to mostly be ISA sound cards that use the -5v, and possibly an ISA NIC mentioned here
ISA Cards & Devices Requiring -5V
So unless you have more than one ISA sound card in your system (some people do), I'd guess the 0,5 is plenty.

Reply 8 of 20, by brostenen

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skitters wrote:
It seems to mostly be ISA sound cards that use the -5v, and possibly an ISA NIC mentioned here ISA Cards & Devices Requiring -5V […]
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brostenen wrote:
skitters wrote:

I've been using this model AT power supply for my 486
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replaceme … /qid=1528236785

I have seen AT PSU's with 0,7a on the -5v. How important is it to have 0,7 compared to 0,5?

It seems to mostly be ISA sound cards that use the -5v, and possibly an ISA NIC mentioned here
ISA Cards & Devices Requiring -5V
So unless you have more than one ISA sound card in your system (some people do), I'd guess the 0,5 is plenty.

Ahhh I see. Well. I have seen reports on motherboards requiring -5v them self as well.
On the other hand, as you say yourself, then -5v for one ISA card should in theory be enough.
Regarding ATX PSU's, then they can even be found with 0.3a on the -5v.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

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Reply 9 of 20, by cyclone3d

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I use good ATX power supplies and ATX to AT adapters that have -5v added.

They even come with a new power switch to mount in place of the old AT power switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EPS-ATX-24-PIN-t … SA/252708704697

Works like a treat.

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Reply 10 of 20, by gdjacobs

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cyclone3d wrote:
I use good ATX power supplies and ATX to AT adapters that have -5v added. […]
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I use good ATX power supplies and ATX to AT adapters that have -5v added.

They even come with a new power switch to mount in place of the old AT power switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EPS-ATX-24-PIN-t … SA/252708704697

Works like a treat.

Yeah, you don't really need that switch as an AT power switch is latching.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 11 of 20, by cyclone3d

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gdjacobs wrote:
cyclone3d wrote:
I use good ATX power supplies and ATX to AT adapters that have -5v added. […]
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I use good ATX power supplies and ATX to AT adapters that have -5v added.

They even come with a new power switch to mount in place of the old AT power switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EPS-ATX-24-PIN-t … SA/252708704697

Works like a treat.

Yeah, you don't really need that switch as an AT power switch is latching.

You talking about the one that comes with the adapter.. that is wired to use with the adapter?

Much easier to use what is already pre-built than to wire up the old switch to the adapter yourself.

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Reply 12 of 20, by gdjacobs

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cyclone3d wrote:

You talking about the one that comes with the adapter.. that is wired to use with the adapter?

Much easier to use what is already pre-built than to wire up the old switch to the adapter yourself.

It's just going to be a standard SPST non momentary switch. If you use one side of the DPST switch included with the AT PSU, you don't have to worry about fitting the replacement in the case. As you're aware, the front trim isn't always the same.

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Reply 13 of 20, by oohms

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A normal part of PC maintenance is to blow the dust out of a power supply. You can use a can of compressed air or you can take it to someone who has an air compressor

It would be a lot easier than adapting an ATX power supply, especially if you need the -5v 😀

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Reply 14 of 20, by appiah4

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The -5V rail is important to some motherboards regardless of whether the plugged in ISA card requires in or not. My GA-BX2000 will not boot up without a never-ending siren beep code when I use a modern ATX PSU without a -5V rail. The board works, but the onboard -5V sensor reads -61V and the only way to use it is to unplug the PC speaker which is suboptimal. So I am stuck with the very few (and relatively shitty) ATX PSUs that do have a white -5V rail running from it. Sucks but true.

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Reply 15 of 20, by Tiido

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Voltage divider from -12V to -5V will fool the sensor in that case.

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Reply 16 of 20, by gdjacobs

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Tiido wrote:

Voltage divider from -12V to -5V will fool the sensor in that case.

Or a regulator to generate the -5V rail (which is what the adapters provide).

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Reply 17 of 20, by appiah4

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gdjacobs wrote:
Tiido wrote:

Voltage divider from -12V to -5V will fool the sensor in that case.

Or a regulator to generate the -5V rail (which is what the adapters provide).

Is there such an ATX to ATX adapter that just adds -5V? The only ones I know of are ATX to AT. The board I have is ATX but it requires -5V.

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Reply 18 of 20, by root42

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Someon here in the forum is also working on a smart converter:

ATX2AT Smart Converter - Live on Kickstarter!

That converter protects the AT mainboard from overcurrent, overvoltage etc.

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Reply 19 of 20, by fierarul

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Hm, I wouldn't want to do too many custom things. So, if new-ish ATX sources don't work it might just be cheaper to dismantle my PSU and tell an electrician to clean it properly from dust / mold / whatever.

The 2nd route being finding a 2nd hand AT source which will probably also be dirty.

The StarTech PS2POWER230 PSU might also be an idea.