VOGONS


First post, by Galacnor

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Hello everyone,

As some of you may know, over the past year I've been slowly restoring an AMD 386-DX40 based PC that my late grandfather left to me. Thanks to help I've received on these forums, the majority of the system is working correctly, and I've just been taking care of little nitpicky things here and there. One of the finishing touches the system is really begging for is for the Turbo button and LED display to be returned to functioning order.

The motherboard that was originally inside the system had to be replaced, I replaced it with another nearly identical model, and even took the processor from the original motherboard and transferred it to the new board. Because of this, I don't know if the LED display was ever functional.

The new motherboard has header connectors for both the turbo button and the turbo LED, (as did the old motherboard) but I have often seen that the LED lead goes to the small LED board, and not to the motherboard, on systems that have the readout, so I'm not sure what to do with it yet.

I plugged one end of the wire coming from the turbo button into the motherboard, and it does seem to be working correctly, as when the turbo button is not activated, the computer runs at 43 Mhz, while when it is depressed, it runs at a slower 27 Mhz, I have to admit that this is not as much of a slowdown as I was expecting, is this pretty normal? This benchmark was produced by Norton System information 8.0.

Despite the fact that the turbo button works, and the system responds to its actuation, the other lead coming out the other side of the turbo button, which I assume is designed to hook into the LED display, does nothing to make the LED display light up.

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The display is marked in one place only "TD-52"

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Does anyone have any idea how to get this little part working?

Thanks
Alex

Reply 1 of 7, by Vaudane

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I could be wrong here, but it looks like the LCD is missing a controller on that little board, so there is no way to hook that directly up to the motherboard. My guess would be that was a daughter board for the controller-board that the lead attached to.

Reply 2 of 7, by JidaiGeki

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Just needs to be configured using the jumpers, and you'll need to figure out the Turbo switch and power headers (and turbo LED connector if applicable). You might have a two-pin connector coming off one of the Molex connectors that used to be attached to this TD-52 front panel, if it's the original power supply.

Have a look through the examples on this page for a better understanding of how to set it up:

http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/led_speed_dis … eed_display.htm

Reply 3 of 7, by PARKE

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Despite the fact that the turbo button works, and the system responds to its actuation, the other lead coming out the other side of the turbo button, which I assume is designed to hook into the LED display, does nothing to make the LED display light up.
>>
>>
Normally you have three connections on these displays:
power in from the motherboard or PSU,
turbo on-off in from the turbo switch,
power out to the turbo led.
Have you tried the power out plug to turbo led in both positions ? - these connections have a plus and a minus and sometimes it only works in one position.

Reply 4 of 7, by Galacnor

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Vaudane wrote:

I could be wrong here, but it looks like the LCD is missing a controller on that little board, so there is no way to hook that directly up to the motherboard. My guess would be that was a daughter board for the controller-board that the lead attached to.

Thanks for your help! It appears in this case the display is "dumb", it doesn't actually know what its displaying, just that it is jumpered a certain way, even the signal from the turbo button is interpreted (I believe) as just a jumper changing, so the display changes to the other set of numerals. I believe that this negates the need for a controller, but what the heck do I know?

JidaiGeki wrote:

Just needs to be configured using the jumpers, and you'll need to figure out the Turbo switch and power headers (and turbo LED connector if applicable). You might have a two-pin connector coming off one of the Molex connectors that used to be attached to this TD-52 front panel, if it's the original power supply.

Have a look through the examples on this page for a better understanding of how to set it up:

http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/led_speed_dis … eed_display.htm

PARKE wrote:
Despite the fact that the turbo button works, and the system responds to its actuation, the other lead coming out the other side […]
Show full quote

Despite the fact that the turbo button works, and the system responds to its actuation, the other lead coming out the other side of the turbo button, which I assume is designed to hook into the LED display, does nothing to make the LED display light up.
>>
>>
Normally you have three connections on these displays:
power in from the motherboard or PSU,
turbo on-off in from the turbo switch,
power out to the turbo led.
Have you tried the power out plug to turbo led in both positions ? - these connections have a plus and a minus and sometimes it only works in one position.

I do indeed have the working original power supply (a Latintech 235 watt) installed in the system. Tucked deep inside of the hard drive bay, with the twist tie still tied around the lead, was the two pin power cable you two had mentioned. It looks like my grandfather was never interested in that aspect of his machine! This is not super surprising, as he was using this 386DX40 into the late 90s, and I suspect he wasn't trying to get ancient software running. I untied the two pin cable, and gave power to the LED display; then I found the place where the turbo button hooks into it to actuate the change in display, and then finally I got to work on configuring the jumpers.

20180802_234704_zpsou8ejtjb.jpg

Even though I thought that each bar should be able to be set independently, it seems that not all combinations are possible (Or maybe I'm just a massive idiot). I settled with 40 and 28 respectively, as this is pretty close to what the computer actually runs at. My computer seems to be of the "Turbo actually is the faster setting" persuasion, and the Turbo LED is lit when the computer is running its fastest, not when the button is depressed, and the computer is running slower. I was under the impression that it was usually the opposite?

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I did not know that old motherboards have a power out sometimes, I'll have to check and see if either his original board or this new board that I bought have a connector like that. It appears so far that neither do, so it makes sense that the power supply came with one installed.

The motherboards are both numbered as shown below, the naming convention means nothing to me, I don't even know which company made them. It appears they're both from the same place, but maybe they're just both generics of the same design? The M326 had a poorly done sticker labeled "Toshiba CHIP 2, TC6154HS, Japan" covering the SARC 4018A4 to the left of the 386DX-40.

The original I pulled due to battery corrosion is labeled: M326 V5.2 and was produced in January of 1994

It is obviously a late 386 board, and a budget one at that, as its only got 6 ISA slots, 5 of them being 16 bit, one being 8 bit

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The replacement I ordered, which was the closet I could find worldwide for sale at the time of my search, is labeled: M321 V2.6 and was produced in 1992

Though I wish I was able to find an exact match for the original board, I am really in love with this pretty little thing. It has 6 ISA 16 bit slots, and 2 ISA 8 bits. The overall quality of the materials seems much higher than in the later board, and in general its a pleasure to work on (aside from the gold RAM retaining fingers going a little soft over the years.)

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Despite their difference in quality, I imagine the boards would have ran about the same, especially seeing as they both have the same bios!

Thanks for all the help on this

Alex

Reply 5 of 7, by PARKE

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Galacnor wrote:
Even though I thought that each bar should be able to be set independently, it seems that not all combinations are possible (Or maybe I'm just a massive idiot). I settled with 40 and 28 respectively, as this is pretty close to what the computer actually runs at.
>>
>>
i found it easier to test the jumper combinations with the display outside the pc and a battery for power. But it is possible that the display board is faulty and that not all the jumper settings work as intended. I have a 3-digit display here that was 'downgraded' for one setting only - most of the pins were clipped off. After the pins were modded it turned out that a number of combinations just did not work.
**

Galacnor wrote:
My computer seems to be of the "Turbo actually is the faster setting" persuasion, and the Turbo LED is lit when the computer is running its fastest, not when the button is depressed, and the computer is running slower. I was under the impression that it was usually the opposite?
>>
>>
As far as I have seen there are two types of motherboards: one type in which the turbo is activated via shorting pins and one type in which the turbo is default and when the pins are shorted it goes into non-turbo state. This is why there are normally 6 wires coming from the turbo button - with 6 wires you can address both scenarios without having to modify anything.

Last edited by PARKE on 2018-08-10, 04:34. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 6 of 7, by Intel486dx33

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For turbo switch I took a blank from the back of the computer case drilled a hole and added this switch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-ON-OFF-Sm … 872.m2749.l2649

wires
https://www.ebay.com/itm/65cm-PC-Computer-Hos … TitleDesc=0%7C0

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