VOGONS


First post, by Klench486

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I am posting because I need your help.
I have a ISA-486V2 Rev 2.4 motherboard that is not posting and has no audio beeps. When connected to a power supply, there is no video either
The details:
This board was working not too long ago. I started getting keyboard errors when I moved from DC to FL. So, I did a bench test and using my multimeter, I discovered a trace had been damaged. I got this motherboard with evidence that the old barrel battery had leaked. Perhaps the trace finally had enough. Anyway, I ran a trace wire and bypassed the broken trace. The motherboard posted and there was no keyboard error. So, thinking I was good to go, I put computer back together in the computer case. Now, the computer won’t post and there is no visual on the monitor. I doubt the motherboard touched metal. It’s possible, but I was careful to use mounts. The keyboard lights up when I turn on the computer so voltage is getting to the keyboard.
What I’ve done:
I went ahead and took everything off the board except for the RAM, CPU and video card. Nothing.
I even took off the cache and left the ram at a minimum.
I put in another ISA video card. Still no screen. The ISA video card I was using works on my 286 so it didn’t go bad.
I tested the bios by pulling the chip…my chip reader shows me there’s data.
I tested the RAM on another computer. No problem with the RAM.
I put in another CPU on the board…still won’t post.
I removed all the cache. Nothing. I put some cache back on. Nothing. I’ve been careful to adjust jumpers as required.
I put in another keyboard controller IC. Nope. This board won’t post if you remove the keyboard controller IC by the way. It’s possible the controller is bad. How does one test the IC with a multimeter.
The Power supply is fine. In fact, it’s running my 5x86 DX 133 and all its peripherals with no issues.
I have no battery on the board. It is not required to post.
Could be a capacitor issue…haven’t replaced them. There are only ceramic capacitors on the board.
Could be a resistor or some other small component issue. Possible, I just don’t know how to test.

I’m stumped. Could really use your help.
I’ve attached pics of the front and back of the boards. Also included closeups of the bios and keyboard controller chips.

Reply 1 of 11, by Klench486

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pics of the board

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Reply 2 of 11, by treeman

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does the cpu get warm at all after leaving it on for about a minute? getting the keyboard lights to flash and cpu warm but no picture is usually a good thing.

Your pictures are not very clear when zooming in but I guess you already did a close visual inspection

Reply 3 of 11, by quicknick

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Your board is quite contaminated from the battery leak - there's green stuff on the ISA slot near your BIOS chip, and that's pretty far away from the battery. You need to give it a vinegar bath for a few minutes, then rinse with water, then some kind of alcohol - this will displace the water especially from under the chips and slots/sockets, and make the board easy to dry.

After that, close visual inspection, looking for corroded traces and vias. You might need to desolder some of the bigger components in the affected areas, as the alkaline goo from the battery has the perverse tendency to ruin the most hidden traces 😁

If you can, please provide some close-up, less fuzzy pictures of the contaminated areas.

Reply 4 of 11, by treeman

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I thought it was just light reflection inside the isa slot, definitely need better pics, and good close-ups where the battery acid was

Reply 5 of 11, by Klench486

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Everyone, really appreciate the suggestions. I'll post better pics.
That battery acid damage is a pain to be sure. I'll take the suggestions and soak. The battery spillage occurred well before I owned the board. It was working fine before I moved.
I will see if the CPU gets warm as suggested.
Will keep you all posted

Reply 7 of 11, by treeman

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those resistors next to power connector look pretty corroded on their pads and pins, unless its the picture

your 14mhz crystal looks corroded too (right of the picture)

all the visible traces in the picture don't look healthy either.

If the rest of the board is in this shape im surprised it was even booting you need a good clean up!

47E I think it is on top of C11 looks like all the solder cracked out on the right pad left doesn't look good either

R5 C12 not looking good.

ps I consider myself 3-4/10 soldering skill and knowledge so this is things that look obvious to me

Reply 8 of 11, by Klench486

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I gave the motherboard an alcohol bath last night and am letting everything dry. Will probably go ahead and recap the orange ceramic capacitors too. When i go to boot up again, I'll put in just the CPU, minimal RAM and cache and a video card. Then I'll check and see if the CPU warms up and if I get a keyboard flash. All good suggestions. Hopefully I can get video because that'll the whole point!

Reply 10 of 11, by Klench486

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Everyone, old thread, but mystery solved. Bad keyboard controller AND Cache chips. Also had to run a trace wire on the mobo because those traces we talked about on the mobo were really corroded. Oh ya, also replaced some capacitors.
Crazy. took 1.5 yrs off and on to solve. This board got a lot of TLC. Just couldn't let it go.
The problem I am dealing with now is the CMOS battery. There's a header for an external battery. Made my own (AA battery holder), but the CPU won't take the battery. I did switch the jumper to external battery. I also tried soldering a coin cell holder and battery to the mobo for an internal battery jumper solution Nope. Computer won't even accept the new battery. There is probably an ongoing electrical issue somewhere on the mobo. Oh well, when I do start it up, it takes a few seconds but I go into the bios and set everything up before using. Small price to pay for what I originally had which was an inop board.
Still, any thoughts on how to get a battery working on this mobo?

Reply 11 of 11, by Klench486

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Also, wanted to add a couple of other thoughts. After I had done the orange capacitor replacements (see pics above), I couldn't get the mobo to boot as we talked about. I was using ATX power supplies with an AT adapter. In a last ditch, I broke into my trusty 286 and "borrowed" the AT power supply. that's what got the mobo back to life. I also plugged in a CPU to a molex just so I could see if power was flowing. I was but no video and CPU wasn't getting warm. I pulled all the cache chips. Have no idea which on is bad, but CPU started to work. Then it would do weird stuff like post and garbage would appear on the screen or as I was typing, I would get garbage that would randomly appear with key strokes. Got to thinking this must be a keyboard IC issue. Yep, I had two spares and it worked. I even had a spare AMI bios from 1993 I was going to test, but never did. CPU started to get warm with the cache chips removed. Again, great tip because that let me know power was flowing. It really is amazing how you these boards can go thru abuse (and lots of cleaning with toothbrushes, Isopropyl etc) and still manage to get working again. Actually played a full run thru of Police Quest 4 (not a great game), but a good test of the multimedia capabilities of cpu. No issues. Maybe if I buy another barrel battery (gasp) it'll solve the cmos problem? Also, using a CF 4GB Transcend for a hard drive. No issues.