So should i jumper TL and H then? I'm not sure if bad things could happen. The owner says 40 was displayed in the past.

10 may be for when the "Turbo" is set for the slower system speed-- or just that two segments of the display quit working.

I think 10 was for the non turbo speed and there's a missing cable from the switch, the power cable was far from the display stuck with a plastic bracket. The turbo led is working too and connected to the motherboard. There are three pins named L TL H as seen in the photo.

There should be a board number that you can look up for jumper settings.

the turbo display is configured manually with the pins.
U set a display for button pressed and depressed.

there is 3 pins on the back of the led display. middle is most likely ground so when the switch is on pin1 + ground is turned on
when the switch is off pin 3 and ground is on

this switches between the 2 states.

The switch for the turbo led display is most likely direct to the physical button on the case.

those turbo buttons have 2 arrays of 3 pins

1 set of pins goes to the led display
the other set goes to the motherboard to switch turbo on/off

so when you press the button 2 independent signals change

1. motherboard on/off
2. led display on/off

There is no reading of mhz being read from the motherboard

it looks like those 3 pins and your tl th, turbo low turbo high perhaps?

but it looks like your 5v and ground is not connected, that is where the power to led comes from. Dont connect the switch to the 5v or you will melt the mechanism inside the physical switch

Thanks, one turbo switch cable is going to the motherboard but i think there's another one missing which should go to the display, i guess someone removed it. Power was disconnected but now is on and the display shows 10.
So i can't connect the switch that's why i want to put a jumper between TL and H. Actually there are six pins and the labels say +5 G IN L TL H. I guess L means low and H high. So is it okay to put the jumper there to show the 40 instead?

yes I would say thay TL = turbo led, H= high L=low so this is exactly how the switch is wired
option 1 =TL+H
option 2 =TL+L

yes put a jumper on TL+H and try TL+L as well if nothing happens
not sure what the other 3 are for

Thanks, well +5 and G are power and it's connected now. The other one in the middle it's probably not connected (?), not sure but that IN could be part of "+5 G IN" or power input (?).

Can't see from the pic but some of them had the turbo switch plug into the display, then the display plugged into the turbo connector on the motherboard, that way you didn't need a special turbo switch with two connectors on it. Maybe IN is where the switch plugs in, and TL H/L is where the turbo LED connector from the motherboard plugs in, with H or L depending on whether motherboard switches the positive or negative lead of the LED to turn it on or off.

The reason for this is that on many motherboards (even my 286 supports it) you can press Alt+Ctrl and the + or - key on the keypad to turn the turbo on and off. The only way the display would keep in sync with this is if the current state was being controlled by the turbo LED output from the motherboard. Otherwise you could turn the turbo on or off from the keyboard and the display would show the wrong speed.

yes I think this makes sense 3 pins in 3 pins out, it looks like a calculated risk as long as u are not touching the 5v pin

I don't think so, AFAIK there were two configurations. In one of them the turbo switch was connected both to the display and the motherboard (i think this is the case here) and the turbo led was connected to the mobo. In the other one the switch was connected just to the motherboard and the turbo led was connected to the display and the motherboard, then the led itself made the display change. Here the switch and led cables are and have always been connected to the mobo (both led and turbo work) and the front switch should make the display change.
Moreover there are six pins, two of them are taken by the power cable and the led connector has only two cables.

So i think it's type 2 (the one below) here:
http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthread.php?362 … 9022#post269022

Sorry that was a brainfart, you are right in that the switch goes straight to the motherboard. I was thinking that the turbo *LED* plugs into the display (not the turbo switch). So turbo LED connector on mobo plugs into the display, and the original turbo LED itself also plugs into the display, as if the display was inserted into the middle of the original turbo LED cable.

Six pins could be possible if this were the case: Power +/-, Turbo LED in +/-, Turbo LED out +/-.

if you are scared to put a jumper on those pins why not rewire the current display of 10 mhz to 40 not much work to change 1 to a 4

this is how my led looks like. 5 pins total 5v + G and 3 pins TSW

5v + g = power
TSW connected direct to turbo switch
Turbo switch also has another 3 pin cable going to motherboard TS (which my motherboard has 2 pins but still works)
Turbo Led on case has 2 pin cable going direct to TB LED on motherboard.

So I guess if your button had a different design the IN would have to be from the physical switch I think. The only "out" signal the motherboard sends is the Turbo Led (little green or orange light)

So im thinking switch is pressed, IN signal goes to display pcb - > OUT signal which is TL + h/l sends signal to motherboard saying turbo on/off... so experimenting with covering the IN jumpers and/or TL + h/l or if you are scared rewire the display to say 40 not 10 its done manually with the long array of pins, some displays have 2 arrays some have 1 array.

my led display came with HI/LO combo and I rewired it to 160/30 which took maybye 20 minutes its not very hard once u get the hang of the logic behind it. I did it with power on for quick results

Thanks again. I was not scared but the computer is not mine.
I've jumpered TL and H aaannnd... it's showing the 40 now. The two extra segments have less intensity tough.
There were actually 7 pins in the end, two of them were for IN, now i think these were for an optional LED input from the motherboard. And H, TL and L were input from the power switch but the cable was missing. The other switch cable has always been connected to the motherboard and has three pins.

good to hear 😀 , strange about the intensity I haven't come across this. as for the in yes it could be the turbo led very likely.

I have 2 cases with turbo led, one of them is a 386 shows 40 on high but on low the led goes blank... was like that when I got it probably some resistor on the pcb but its good enough for me

If there's less intensity it typically means the connections are wrong and it's being powered by accident. So if it works and doesn't both you that's fine, but if you keep poking around you'll hopefully find the right way to make it light properly.

Are you sure? I think that's impossible and that segments lose intensity during usage due to normal wear. I've seen weak displays in the past and it was not a bad configuration. May be it's the opposite and it was used for some time with the low (10) configuration, i don't really know.

You could try changing one of the panels from the "High" that is displaying low intensity to be enabled on the "low"
If it shows weak on the low configuration its the actual led if it doesn't it could be one of the resistors on the pcb possibly not letting the right voltage/current through?

Just some trouble shooting logic, if it works better on "low" could rewire "low" to display 40.... but you said its not your system so depends if you want to invest more time into it