Nice find - have you tried booting up the PC?
I would desolder that battery as soon as possible - your motherboard should have an external battery header where you can connect an external battery pack to.

Trident wasn't one of the fastest graphics card for its time but, it depends which chipset your card has.

A 386DX-33 is good for playing a vast array of games up to around 1992/1993. Wing Commander 1, Wolfenstein 3D, Sierra & Lucasarts/Lucasfilm adventure games, to name a few.

I would recommend at least a 486DX2-66 with a VESA Local Bus graphics card for Doom.
A sound card is highly recommended - any Sound Blaster Pro 2 or clone with real FM synthesis should do.

The label is just a generic PC clone as far as I can tell.

When I turn it ON It beeps 2-3x constant and then maybe 6-7x constant beeps.
No picture and green light stays ON with both floppy 5" and 3"....Should floppies green light shutdown after start ? Not stay ON.
Which way the floppy data cable goes to these old floppies: 5" and 3" because I can place/flip it both ways and I might have mixed them up...
+HDD is set as Master and I use the end of data cable. Should I use the middle or end I have only 1pc HDD ? It was originally set in the middle.

HDD hums and Power supply fan hums and such computer sounds ok....
No picture and lots of beeps...
PSU and Motherboard looked fine inside...

I have inserted a keyboard but I don't have an old mouse...
Would the computer still start without mouse attached ?

Can I use a modern 2011 22" Asus Full HD computer screen as a screen it has an old VGA connector ?

Identity your BIOS chip by looking at the label on the chip.
Google "BIOS beep error codes" and see what they mean.
You might have to reseat your cards and memory modules but, it could also be that the battery has leaked out over the motherboard causing some damage.

You don't need a mouse to boot and and most displays with a a VGA connector should work.

I eye-checked the *Blue colored GP 3.6V* CMOS battery and no traces were corroded and no major leakage...Empty it propably is.
Is *F82C351 CHIPS 33MHz* a "BIOS chip" ?
Or *F82C355-A CHIPS* ?
How can I identify a 386 BIOS chip ? What does it look like ?

I haven't reseated the memory modules(There are about 6-8 of them small and odd looking compared to modern rams like DDR1,2,3,4,....) but cards I have reseated...

OK.
AMI # ZZ390492 (=Bios chip.1986-1990)

user33331 wrote:

OK.
AMI # ZZ390492 (=Bios chip.1986-1990)

That's it

user33331 wrote:

I haven't reseated the memory modules(There are about 6-8 of them small and odd looking compared to modern rams like DDR1,2,3,4,....) but cards I have reseated...

30-pin simms.

Here are memory combs 8x pieces !?!...Taken out by me. Are they compatible ?
Upper 4slots=4x Toshiba TC514400ASJ-70 Japan
Below 4slots=2x Goldstar GM71C1000J80 9162 Korea
2x NEC 421000 89TCRU003 JAPAN
Where they installed correctly originally ?
I mean they are different looking and manufacturer brands are different...

Maybe it's just me but I'd take a low-end cheap 1991 machine over a high-end mid-2000s machine any day, if only because of how rare they are.

If you work at it long enough I'm sure we can help you get it working, or help you find someone who will take it off your hands and get it working.

Circa 1990 desktops, even if not working, are worth some money. They're rare as hen's teeth around here.

You may want to try running each set of 4 separately in the slots you took them out of (i.e. install 4 but not the other 4). There can be a lot of problems with old machines, bad components, trace damage from leaking batteries, etc.

OK. Now it starts and picture came in.
It says CMOS low and it enters BIOS and I chose OK to all...
and now it says "Drive not ready error" -"insert boot disk to A:\". Why does it not load the Seagate ?
Is it in BIOS settings the start order or something ?

It does not identify the Seagate-HDD drive maybe it is broken ?
How big is the maximum HDD this BIOS can handle the Seagate is/was 130mb ?

- What kind of HDD is compatible for a replacement to this 386 DX ? Maximum MB or GB ?
- How to create a boot disc A:\ ? Can I play games like Wolfenstein3D with a boot-disc only ?

You will need to setup the parameters in the bios for the hard drive. Auto detection of hard drives was not a thing back then.

https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/hard-drives-hdd/ … -SL-IDE-AT.html

Then there is a decent chance the drive will boot.

As for a how good the computer you found was, IMO it is pretty great. Computers like this are rare and make a good base to play many of the older DOS games on.

Getting a late 2000's computer (core 2 duo or later) is really, really easy. It is quite rare to come across an old 386, the vast majority were tossed or have corroded themselves to death. Definitely remove that battery from the board and install an external battery. Unless that system has been in use frequently, that onboard battery has probably started leaking.

How to insert HDD parameters \ add a HDD in a reseted(=empty CMOS) 386 AMI BIOS ?
- It now says something like C:\ drive= "no drive" in BIOS.

Model MBytes Cylinders R/W Sectors/ CMOS
(F) Heads Track MBytes(F)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ST3144A 130.7 1,001 15 17 124

In standard bios settings (top item ussually)

change hard drive to type 47
then enter the following parameters
cylinders = 1001
heads = 15
sectors = 17
leave precomp and landing zone at 0, see if it works.

I will solder a new battery in summer(Now snowing=winter). What quality 3.6V tabbed batteries exist in Ebay ?
(Will the CMOS battery suddenly start leaking if it has not yet leaked in 30 years GP-brand ?)
Are those Chinese tabbed 3.6V batteries any good ?
+ Will a CR2032 3V holder work or does it have to be *a special barrel looking 3.6V battery* ?

Ok I'm in BIOS now.
"Drive not installed"
USER TYPE=47 OK
CYLN=1001 (no dots) OK
HEADS=15 OK
WPCOM= ??? (Precomp=0 ?)
LZONE= ??? (Landing zone=0 ?)
SECT= ??? (Sectors=17 ?)
SIZE= I can't input to this SIZE.

Maybe it will start leaking. Especially if it is put back into storage for a while. Any 30 year NiCD battery is running on borrowed time if it hasn't already leaked everywhere.

There should be 4 pin external battery connector on the motherboard. Cut the original battery off and use a 4.5V (3 x alkaline AA or AAA batteries) battery holder connected to this header.

If you want to install a CR2032 battery holder, you will need to also remove the charging diode from the motherboard, so it doesn't try to charge your CR2032 as though it was a NiCD battery.