user33331 wrote:

Hello Abit BF6 Pentium-3(III) Slot-1 motherboard. How easy would be to change the capacitors in this motherboard ? - 3-4pcs are […]
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Hello
Abit BF6 Pentium-3(III) Slot-1 motherboard.
How easy would be to change the capacitors in this motherboard ?
- 3-4pcs are bursting soon but all 24pcs probably need changing.
- Dark green and yellow/gold colored capacitors.
Probably same manufacturer as in those bad Pentium 4 motherboards.

Is this a good motherboard or should I trash it because of the bursting capacitors ?
- It has a Slot-1 to Socket 370 adapter and a Celeron 566mhz in it.

It's not hard, and any Abit is worth saving IMO !
And BF6 is a good one too with its Softmenu and "133MHz capable".
If you feel unable to do it pass it on to someone that can =)
Never trash Abits !

So:
- One soldering iron and copper solder-wick ?
Or
- Just pulling them out with those "2-head soldering tweezers" ?

This post had already done it : (6.3V 1500µF)
[build log] My attempt at building the "ultimate" 440BX machine.

user33331 wrote:

This post had already done it : (6.3V 1500µF)
[build log] My attempt at building the "ultimate" 440BX machine.

These are 1000uF 6.3V solid electrolytes. He could actually use 4V ones with a higher capacitance on the processor side of the VRM, though even these are an overkill for Slot 1. I would probably install a mix of 1800uF 6.3V low ESR regular electrolytes and 1200uF 4V solid electrolytes.

Abit used Jackcon capacitors usually on their Slot 1 and Socket 370 mainboards. These caps were not great even new.

Browsing ebay:
Are these good ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-of-Panasonic- … ssAAOSwl9RZ5W8r

1.) What brand caps ?
2.) Which china Ebay seller sells reliable and genuine caps ?
3.) Solid caps seem harder to find on ebay.

user33331 wrote:

Browsing ebay: Are these good ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-of-Panasonic- … ssAAOSwl9RZ5W8r […]
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Browsing ebay:
Are these good ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-of-Panasonic- … ssAAOSwl9RZ5W8r

1.) What brand caps ?
2.) Which china Ebay seller sells reliable and genuine caps ?
3.) Solid caps seem harder to find on ebay.

I really suggest you not to use eBay for capacitor sourcing unless NOS parts from trusted American or European sellers. The Chinese sell relabelled junk mostly at inflated price. Distributors like Arrow, Digi-Key or Mouser are the way to go.

European seller don't know if they are genuine ?
10v 1500uF Sanyo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaqJw
Read here that 10V 1500uF is better than 6.3V 1500uF
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=336936

I'd probably use panasonic FR and FS series capacitors if it was my motherboard. Bought from mouser or RS-online.

I'd give ebay and other non-trusted dealers a wide berth. Fake/dodgy capacitors are still a thing, and the only thing worse than recapping a motherboard once is recapping it twice 😀

Polymers are a bit riskier on these P2 and P3 boards, as the lower switching frequency of these VRMs are not as well suited to polymer capacitors.

user33331 wrote:

European seller don't know if they are genuine ? 10v 1500uF Sanyo: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaq […]
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European seller don't know if they are genuine ?
10v 1500uF Sanyo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaqJw
Read here that 10V 1500uF is better than 6.3V 1500uF
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=336936

They are not genuine almost certainly. Sanyo capacitors manufactured after 2009 are Suncon labelled.

It's better to use 10V liquid electrolytic caps if they are going to be installed on a +5V rail. Most server and industrial equipment does it for a reason. If the actual voltage is +3.3V or lower, 6.3V rated caps are just fine. Solid electrolytic caps are more durable, so you can use 6.3V on +5V. I even use 4V on +5V sometimes, though only after testing for leakage current.

ph4nt0m wrote:

user33331 wrote:

European seller don't know if they are genuine ? 10v 1500uF Sanyo: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaq […]
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European seller don't know if they are genuine ?
10v 1500uF Sanyo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaqJw
Read here that 10V 1500uF is better than 6.3V 1500uF
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=336936

They are not genuine almost certainly. Sanyo capacitors manufactured after 2009 are Suncon labelled.

It's better to use 10V liquid electrolytic caps if they are going to be installed on a +5V rail. Most server and industrial equipment does it for a reason. If the actual voltage is +3.3V or lower, 6.3V rated caps are just fine. Solid electrolytic caps are more durable, so you can use 6.3V on +5V. I even use 4V on +5V sometimes, though only after testing for leakage current.

6.3V capacitors are fine, and are explicitly designed for 5V circuits. Electrolytic capacitors are not like tantalum capacitors. They won't catch fire and explode on the slightest over-voltage. Sure, using 10V caps would be fine, but not if it means getting capacitors that don't fit well.

canthearu wrote:

ph4nt0m wrote:

user33331 wrote:

European seller don't know if they are genuine ? 10v 1500uF Sanyo: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaq […]
Show full quote

European seller don't know if they are genuine ?
10v 1500uF Sanyo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-Electrolytic-Cap … k_6XFL2T1vVaqJw
Read here that 10V 1500uF is better than 6.3V 1500uF
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=336936

They are not genuine almost certainly. Sanyo capacitors manufactured after 2009 are Suncon labelled.

It's better to use 10V liquid electrolytic caps if they are going to be installed on a +5V rail. Most server and industrial equipment does it for a reason. If the actual voltage is +3.3V or lower, 6.3V rated caps are just fine. Solid electrolytic caps are more durable, so you can use 6.3V on +5V. I even use 4V on +5V sometimes, though only after testing for leakage current.

6.3V capacitors are fine, and are explicitly designed for 5V circuits. Electrolytic capacitors are not like tantalum capacitors. They won't catch fire and explode on the slightest over-voltage. Sure, using 10V caps would be fine, but not if it means getting capacitors that don't fit well.

They won't catch fire, but they also experience temperature derating. Their leakage current at +5V may be 100x higher than for 10V parts. It reduces their life span considerably.

Hello
I want to try and start the Abit BF6 motherboard to see if it would work "as is".
Motherboard has 4-5pcs out of 25pcs or so bulking/leaked capacitors.
I'm poor at soldering and all lead free solder sold today are very bad.

So will it harm\brick: ?
- Graphic card= AGP Voodoo 3 3000 ?
- Power supply from 2010= BeQuiet! 650W Dark Power Pro 7 ?
- Processor P3 Celeron 566 Mhz ?

If the seller said it was working/booting, then it is probably OK to try it first as is.

If it is completely untested, you may be better off recapping it first.

In any case, you should NOT run the motherboard in it's current condition for any longer than you absolutely need to, to determine it's functionality/repairability.

If it boots, but you don't want to repair it, please sell it cheaply to someone who will repair it, rather than just trashing it. I am sure there is someone willing to take a board that shows life and refurbish it for their retro use.

What leaded(with Pb) solder brand is good ?
- I had 2pcs "lead free" solder one was Stannol and other "Mercury"-brand UK and they would not even stick copper. Lead free is really bad.

I bought already *Panasonic FR*-capacitors from UK ebay seller.
Now I need someone to replace the caps.

So close but so far away in replacing. 😢

user33331 wrote:

What leaded(with Pb) solder brand is good ?
- I had 2pcs "lead free" solder one was Stannol and other "Mercury"-brand UK and they would not even stick copper. Lead free is really bad.

Either will do. Lead free is a little bit more fragile with a ~50 degrees Celsius higher melting point. Please use a correct flux. No good soldering otherwise.

user33331 wrote:

What leaded(with Pb) solder brand is good ? - I had 2pcs "lead free" solder one was Stannol and other "Mercury"-brand UK and the […]
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What leaded(with Pb) solder brand is good ?
- I had 2pcs "lead free" solder one was Stannol and other "Mercury"-brand UK and they would not even stick copper. Lead free is really bad.

I bought already *Panasonic FR*-capacitors from UK ebay seller.
Now I need someone to replace the caps.

So close but so far away in replacing. 😢

I've never seen a hobbyist or repair tech who prefers lead free solder. For PCB soldering I find it easier to use a thinner gauge, somewhere around 0.5mm will make it melt quicker and easier to feed without overdoing it.

There are many good choices, this is a safe bet with free delivery (EDIT: sorry, I saw you were buying from the UK and thought you were in the UK but I see now you're in Finland)
https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/3096 … 250g/dp/SD00958

If all of this is new to you, take your time, do your research. There are loads of good videos on Youtube but I like the detail this guy goes into and he knows what he's talking about. He shows a good technique, coming in from the side although I like to drag the iron up along the lead when pulling away to make sure the result is neat even if I used slightly too much solder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEr2hJBFc2A

A clean, correct size, correct temperature solder tip is essential for a good solder joint. A ball of brass wool in a heavy cup is cheap and very effective to keep your tip clean while working. When finished, coat your tip in solder to preserve it from corrosion. (EDIT: also, coat a new tip in solder as it warms up for the first time! It will last much longer if you do this)

If you want some stand-alone flux to de-solder or correct a bad solder joint then the cheapest is not a bad option, pure Rosin / Colophony can be mixed with IPA alcohol (IPA you will also want for many uses including cleaning up the flux).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111762146939
This guy shows you what it's all about, he has other good electronics tutorial videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xk76e7nzcw

For Solder irons, if you're just doing a bit of simple capacitor / through-hole replacement and baulk at the cost of a high quality Weller solder station then Antex XS25 are good quality, UK made, basic solder "wands". All the bits you need can be bought from CPC, Antex sell kits which include good enough multimeters and cutting tools.

Further edit: A desoldering pump isn't totally essential but they're cheap and will help you get a good result.
Another edit: Practice on broken electronics you don't care about before moving onto your prized board.

I have extra working Win7 PC\motherboards:
Is it ok to train desoldering with these ? Or are they rare ?
1.) Abit AN8-V socket 939 AMD 2006.
2.) Lenovo's Pentium Core2Duo 2.8ghz Thinkcenter ATX 2007.

You better try some dead mainboards instead. I remember how awful my soldering work looked in my early days back at school. Everything was wrong: solder, flux, soldering iron. The absence of skills makes you use excessive force which is also wrong.

It doesn't have to be a motherboard you practice on or even capacitors you're (de)soldering.
If you really don't have a better candidate than something working then I'd go for the 939 board purely because it came out around the time when there was a flood of bad capacitors.

My tip is to not really both clearing the solder out of the holes on the motherboard after you pull the old caps. Without a proper desoldering pump, you are more likely just to ruin the board by damaging tracks.

Use wick to clear what you can, then heat the pad and push the new capacitor into the holes. Just finish off with some leaded solder if there isn't enough solder on the pad or the connection doesn't look nice.

It isn't the "correct" way to really do, but works well enough.