You'll need an AT style switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/power-switch-manual-pu … n/dp/B00O88OLNW

Or you could take the route of using a regular momentary switch from a modern PC and add in a latching relay.

^^^ On an unrelated note, the way I converted such AT switch (4 terminal) push-type to momentary was to take out the switch, open the switch tabs, pry it apart, and take that little "s" pin out of the plastic guide - it became a momentary switch using only one half of the prongs. Satisfying click, momentary action for ATX use 😉

I have a ton of these lying around (original, unmodified) - if you can't find one locally, I'll send you one, just cover the shipping 😁

^^ Other way around, bud. This is for an AT supply. 😀

If the plastic is all that's at fault, the switch itself is probably fine. You might have some luck sanding down the interfering edges of the plastic button cap, and maybe lubricate the recess in the case where it travels. If the switch itself is to blame, you can find mains-rated latching power switches with the correct mounting tabs fairly easily at an electronics supply store -- perhaps one of the online parts houses?

If you really want to go with a different location, you can simply move the existing switch to the back. Again, the button cap is probably where your problem exists anyway, so just remove it.

Using a momentary push-button switch will require some electronics work with mains voltages. If you have to ask how, you should think about whether or not this is something you want to be messing with. (I mean, you have to learn somewhere, just know that there's risk involved and you need to be confident in your ability before you dive in.)

If you have to ask how to work with mains voltage, start by making a fire proof workspace.

Thank you for your answers...

I made it to work by increasing the length of the power switch plastic rod using a piece of drinking straw.

Now it aligns to the hole of the button.

😀

SirNickity wrote:

^^ Other way around, bud. This is for an AT supply. 😀

I know it is, I'm just saying how such a switch can be made to work properly with an ATX supply, and that I have unmodified switches for OP if he needs them. Kind of OT, sure, just giving our Greek friend some options in case he wants to think about using an ATX power supply in the future through a converter like this

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20P-ATX-To-2-Port-6Pi … h0AAOSwA3dYVp0z

with his original switch - in the event he runs out of straws 🤣 Hey, I've fixed power switches with I/O shields, wood, bits of dremeled plastic bits, etc. Now there's 3D printing 😁

I'm aware of the ATX power supply and the converter!
I can buy a 400w ATX PSU brand new with vintage look and dual socket (input. output) on the back, but I must use Sata to Molex power adaptor and Sata to FDD to add power connections for my devices.. It's a good solution...

Fortunately all my AT PSU (4) are working great. Also I have two old ones, with both AT and ATX connections for the motherboard...

Every time an AT power supply dies here, I cut off all the MOLEX and floppy connectors and solder them on to an ATX power supply. That only happened once, as I'm still able to get NOS ATX power supplies that still have MOLEX and the floppy power supply.

Can you show us a picture of your build? I am curious 😉

Soyo 025N2 (I want to add voltage regulator)
i486Dx2 66 MHz
CL 5428 2MB VLB
ES1868F
16 MB EDO RAM

Compact flash for HDD.

CD Rom isn't connected I don't have a spare IDE cable and I always connect the optical drives on the sound card header.
I will add a 5,25" floppy disk drive soon...

P.S. Sorry for the quality of the images, I need to reflash the firmware on my Z5, I'm using another application. Camera doesn't works well...

P.S.2. You can see the color difference, is not yellowed and the chassis is paint in black... Also the cover is the same color as the front plastic faceplate.

Hey man, that looks good!

Thanks!

Turbo button works well on the fly, it decreases the speed to 33 MHz, so is on my AM386Dx40 area...

I also want to connect the Turbo SW and Turbo Led to the display and the display to the board and to change the HI, LO to 66, 33 MHz for appropriate use of the Turbo feature and the display. I have the pinout, but it wants a little effort. The display removed from my old Pentium MMx build (1998). It's a K-518 model.

No I will move to storage my Pentium MMx, AM486Dx4 120 MHz PCI and AM386Dx40 builds which I'm using them for DOS (and Windows 3.11 - 95) to storage and keep this for experiments and workaround.

I have a similar range of computers - 386SX/16 for early games, 486DX2/66 for mid 90s, and a P233MMX for late 90s. Also a a PIII 266 for laptop for portable gaming. I also have a pretty beefed up 486DLC @40MHz that I've had in one iteration or another since 2000.

At any given time though, there's at least another 10 PCs at my place.

I also have a K6-3 with Voodoo 3 3000 and SB live!,another 386Dx25 and one ultimate build for Windows 9x/Me with Athlon XP, Audigy 2, 9600 Pro but no space for them. Spare motherboard for 386dx40, 486 vlb, PII, PIII motherboards with cpus and rams on the basement. A 380z Thinkpad PII laptop, the best for DOS, an Armada MMx and a T23 with Os/2 Warp 4.52 installed for expirements. I want to install ArcaOS to it...

But I'll stick with my 486Dx2 for the moment.. If I have bigger demands I will install aDx4 CPU, or the Am5x86.

I like the desktop case...