Take good pictures, test it to make sure it works, post it on Ebay. Check a couple of recently sold examples to get a feel for what they're going for, and pick your price accordingly. When you ship it, put it in an anti-static bag, in a box loosely packed with crumpled paper so it can't knock around, but isn't stressed when you close it up. Preferably, if you don't have the existing box and packing material, cut a strip of cardboard and wrap it over some bubble wrap at the ends of the board to let it "float" by pylons. This prevents any damage at the edges, and gives it a cushion. Make sure the middle of the board does not bear any load (excessive packing, or potential fulcrum point), or else you will bend and possibly snap the board if it's under stress during shipping.

Most importantly, for the love of all that's vintage, do NOT put the board directly in a plastic bag or bubble wrap and mail it in a padded envelope.

What else would you want to know?

Bubble wrap or poly peanuts better than paper surely? Paper can lose its shape allowing the item to rattle around inside the box.

I mean... lots of things work. It's just that the best packaging I've ever received is when someone took plain brown paper bags (or wrapping paper), tore them up, crumpled them into balls (not packed down into little rocks, just loosely crumpled) and filled the empty space. They would compress under impact and absorb that energy, they're too voluminous to move around freely, easily recyclable, and not prone to generating static.

Peanuts are effective, but they SUCK to deal with once their job is done. It takes a lot of bubble wrap to do as effectively what loosely crumpled paper can do. Ergo...

Just my 2c.

Right, I guess that would work for light items like this.

For heavy stuff, the end supports are key, IME. That's why everything gets shipped from the factory with giant end-caps made of styrofoam or cardboard.

I got a 486 desktop that was wrapped carefully in several layers of bubble wrap, but it still suffered a big old crack in the middle of the front faceplate, from the bottom edge up to the vertical 3.5" drive bay. My guess is, when it was up on end (front face down), the faceplate was bearing the weight of the entire chassis, and stressed the plastic right in the middle. If it had the end-cap blocks, or a homemade equivalent, they would have taken the weight and distributed it along the edges and corners, where the case is strongest.

Oh yes broken bezels are a PITA. I always warn sellers about this before they ship. It's the weakest part of the case and the part that needs the most protection.

SirNickity wrote:

What else would you want to know?

I finnaly made it. is it OK? search for it on ebay

ABIT IC7-MAX3 478 Intel 875P ATX Motherboard

Does anybody have an asus ct-479 adapter laying around? I may have some fun with the abit ic7 max3 before selling it

DaveThe5 wrote:

Does anybody have an asus ct-479 adapter laying around?

They're probably as rare as those active Tualatin Slotkets. I wouldn't count on anyone here having one just lying around. 😉