Crank up the heat on the iron, there's no thermal relifs on these vias and that means the ground fill acts as a heatsink and sucks away the heat. You'll only manage to get the solder out when the solder melts fully and that means overcoming the heatsink effect.

Tiido wrote:

Crank up the heat on the iron, there's no thermal relifs on these vias and that means the ground fill acts as a heatsink and sucks away the heat. You'll only manage to get the solder out when the solder melts fully and that means overcoming the heatsink effect.

I used a 30W iron. Should I go with +40W then?

Man, it's getting on my nerve. 😎

Almost forgot. Thanks for the concise explanation. It makes sense.

40W will probably help. On my soldering station I increase the heat to 380ºC and sometimes beyond for cases like this, with non-temperature controlled irons there's no real knowing how high the temps get...

Tiido wrote:

40W will probably help. On my soldering station I increase the heat to 380ºC and sometimes beyond for cases like this, with non-temperature controlled irons there's no real knowing how high the temps get...

If that's the case, I think I should go into an oursourcing route as professional hands would simply shine.
Thank you very much for the help.

In such cases I put some (or even more) fresh solder on the hole. Then heat up for a longer time so that the new solder and the part reminaing in the hole melts up. Then suck everything out.

The additional solder stores more heat and heat transfer is better than only with the iron.

Another suggestion I would make: the extra solder you add should be a low-melt temperature solder like this one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chi … SN48-ND/8681827 Not only it stores heat, but also it stays liquid until it reaches lower temperatures compared to usual solder and that will make sucking it out with a pump easier. Low-melt solder is very useful for all kinds of component desoldering.

Predator99 wrote:

In such cases I put some (or even more) fresh solder on the hole. Then heat up for a longer time so that the new solder and the part reminaing in the hole melts up. Then suck everything out.

The additional solder stores more heat and heat transfer is better than only with the iron.

stamasd wrote:

Another suggestion I would make: the extra solder you add should be a low-melt temperature solder like this one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chi … SN48-ND/8681827 Not only it stores heat, but also it stays liquid until it reaches lower temperatures compared to usual solder and that will make sucking it out with a pump easier. Low-melt solder is very useful for all kinds of component desoldering.

Thank you for the tips.

While at it, I actually melt more solder into the hole then tried to suck all up at once. I thought Creative wasn't up to no-lead back in mid 90's so 60:40 solder should be a safe bet. What happened next was more residual solder remained in the hole and left white stain around the pad. (You can see from the photo the three holes are clogged indeed.) 63:37 with hotter iron might have produced a different outcome. Maybe my iron wasn't hot enough, or I wasn't skilled enough to pull the job, most likely.

I'll try to find a professional hand in my area, and if that's not available, I'll try stamasd's suggestion and/or a hotter iron with low-melt solder.
Wish me good luck.

Finally I was able to remove the damaged socket out of its old place.

I tried lowmelt & quickchip, but they made things even worse; once those low-melting tins shoved in plated through-holes, the holes seemed to dissipate extra heat extra fast.

What finally helped me out was this turbo-charged solder iron that you could kick its temperature up to 700C for a short while.

Nothing stood against the hod-rod and I could finally suck out what remained in the stubborn holes.

God, those holes were of course full of tin.

PS. Thanks @Tiido.

A hot air station would have come handy for this kind of cases as well.
I had a similar problem with a soldered DALLAS battery chip, but after applying hot air on the area for a while the chip went off ^^

Deksor wrote on 2020-04-21, 12:01:

A hot air station would have come handy for this kind of cases as well.
I had a similar problem with a soldered DALLAS battery chip, but after applying hot air on the area for a while the chip went off ^^

A hot-air station would have been absolutely awesome in my case as there were huge heat-sinking real-estates above and below PCB. By the time I took out the socket, I wasn't able to believe what I was seeing; the gigantic metal plate underneath was surely eye-catching.

where would you buy areplacement socket?

i got an awe32 with broken socket, i cant replace it because the memory socket is different from any 486motherboard since the memory is laying to one side

ebay or your friendly electronics wholesaler, just look for simm socket

SETBLASTER wrote on 2020-04-23, 02:02:

where would you buy areplacement socket?

i got an awe32 with broken socket, i cant replace it because the memory socket is different from any 486motherboard since the memory is laying to one side

I've got mine from ebay and the part # is "AMP 822113-2". I'm sure you can find it from other parts stores too.
It sits right in, and "everything" fits. The nicest part is it has metal memory arms rather than clumsy plastic ones.

P.S. Sorry for the late reply.