VOGONS


First post, by KennyPowers

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

I have an old Acer 5200LR (looks like this) that I mostly use for DOS gaming. We had several short power outages yesterday, and now the PSU won't start when pushing the power button on the front of the case. This PSU is not a type I'm familiar with. It has the AT-style P8 and P9 connectors for the motherboard, but also has a 3-wire connector (black/white/red) to the motherboard:

https://i.imgur.com/GkKksqy.jpg

There is no power switch connected to the PSU itself like a typical AT PSU. The momentary power button on the case connects to a 2-pin header on the motherboard similar to an ATX PSU. I don't see any obviously failed components inside the PSU (leaking/burst caps, burn marks, etc):

https://i.imgur.com/KbbqIg2.jpg

The black/white/red wires from that 3-wire connector to the motherboard are labeled "GND", "ON/OFF", and "+5V" respectively on the PSU's PCB:

https://i.imgur.com/oozGt2M.jpg

The other weird thing is that I actually did eventually get the PSU to start and the machine to boot fine *twice* after messing with it for a long time. Both times it happened when plugging the power cord into the PSU (not when pushing the power button). After it happened the first time, I sat there and plugged/unplugged the PSU dozens of times before it successfully started again...seems totally random. After the machine successfully boots in this manner, if I shut it off by holding down the power button on the case, the power button will not start the PSU again...you have to go back to the plug/unplug crapshoot.

So, is this PSU shot? If so, what can I use to easily replace it? I searched for the part # and didn't find any for sale on ebay or anything. Here are some additional pictures of the PSU and its labeling:

https://i.imgur.com/3IFV2CQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UsPF3dP.jpg

Reply 2 of 8, by KennyPowers

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
DankEngihn wrote:

Is the power supply fuse blown?

Also that big cap by the black wires looks kinda off.

I checked the fuse...had continuity across it.

I think it's just the light making the top of that cap look like that. It's not bulged or discolored in-person.

Reply 3 of 8, by PCBONEZ

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

Interesting power supply. More or less an AT with +5vsb added.
Your symptoms suggest a problem with the +5vsb.
[Speculation because I haven't seen that type, least not in recent memory.]
= The 3 wires would seem to be.
Ground [duh]
+5vsb to the system. (Power to the front switch whenever the PSU has power to it.]
Power from the switch back to the PSU telling it to turn on or off.
-
(Before it goes there... Not all bad caps bloat..)
Most likely suspect is the main cap in the +5vsb circuit.
It has power whenever the PSU is plugged in so it 'felt' the power surges and would have tried to suppress them.
If it is shorted then your front switch isn't getting power except maybe for a short burst when you first plug it in.
They are usually 6-8mm caps at ~47uF and 35-50v but it does vary.
If that isn't it then look for something else in +5vsb. (Small caps and small transformer in vsb first.)
The large input caps can blow too but surges don't kill them as often as they kill vsb caps.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 4 of 8, by 386DX40

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

I have a Delta 145w AT power supply I use on my test bench that came from a dead Acer using that same three pin plug to turn it off and on. Check out Delta DPS-145PB-50, though I don't know weather it will fit your machine without modifications. I jumper wire the white and black wires together in the P7 connector to start the power supply, and pull jumper wire to turn it off.

Edit: I looked though old web pages on that Acer I saved. Saw someone mention fitting a Compaq Mitac MPU-110REFP as a replacement. It has an on off switch right on back, not sure of exact external dimensions compared to your unit though there are some on ebay. May be worth checking out.

Reply 5 of 8, by KennyPowers

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Thanks...I'll look for failed component(s) on the +5vsb circuit. I'm not super skilled with that stuff, but I have successfully replaced (obviously blown) caps in both of my //e power supplies, so I can likely figure it out 😀 It'll probably be a couple weeks or so before I have time to mess with it...I'll post updates when I do though.

Reply 6 of 8, by KennyPowers

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

I never was able to revive this PSU. Question...how would I go about using an ATX PSU with an adapter, but keep the momentary power button on the front of the case working? Also, would I need to worry about the lack of -5V?

Reply 7 of 8, by pentiumspeed

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

You can do this with ATX adapter and splice 3 wires to this 3 pin plug. The 3 pin connector is ground, standby 5v and other wire is power on signal by grounding it.

What you need is know the pinout of the 3 pin plug.

Cheers,

Great Northern aka Canada.

Reply 8 of 8, by KennyPowers

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
pentiumspeed wrote on 2020-03-10, 03:06:

You can do this with ATX adapter and splice 3 wires to this 3 pin plug. The 3 pin connector is ground, standby 5v and other wire is power on signal by grounding it.

What you need is know the pinout of the 3 pin plug.

Cheers,

From looking at the labeling on the dead PSU's PCB, I believe the pinout for the 3pin plug is black=GND, white=ON/OFF, red=+5V. So, from looking at a pinout for a 20pin ATX plug, does that mean I would splice the wires like this?

  • connect 3pin plug's black wire to any black wire on the ATX plug
  • connect 3pin plug's white wire to the green PS_ON wire on the ATX plug
  • connect 3pin plug's red wire to the purple +5VSB wire on the ATX plug